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That might actually be the right one. I have to disassemble mine to verify, but do remember it being in the corner of the board like that. Hopefully I can give it a thorough check this weekend. Thank you again!

Thanks for those. Everyone's pic has been helpful. Last one I'm looking for is the solder-side of the fuse/relay board. IIRC, they put a very tiny cap on the solder-side, making a jump connection. Board itself is a pain to remove (so definitely not asking anyone to do it). Hopefully someone has...

Thanks for the pic @goodolpg. Anyone have the top-down view of the upside down board with the fuses and relays? IIRC, I paid $300 or so for mine, way back when, so $1k to $1600+ is pretty big money now lol.

I recapped and redid a ton of resistors a few years back, and after back together, it would light up and then blow the main fuse if I remember it right. I put it on a shelf in disgust and it's been sitting every since. I'm thinking (hoping) something was incorrect on the power supply, but need...

I sent one to you. Check your alerts in upper right of screen.

Yeah, those are the unpolished ones. Looks like I actually have 3 of them. PM me your address and I'll try and get them mailed this week.

OK, so I found the slider knobs mixed in with other bag. I need to know if yours are polished or unpolished aluminum as I have both. Also, if possible, take a pic of your remaining slider knobs so I know it's the right one. Have several different styles but should be either polished or not.

I bought that 2120 specifically as a parts unit (was nothing wrong with it other than lowest power and lack of features) and think I paid like $35 + shipping or something like that and was just lucky it happened to appear on the auction site. Was able to use the meters (these appear specific to...

I was only able to find a few knobs. Have the large volume, two of the function selectors, and I think the balance knob. They are in nice shape. As for the eq sliders, you might get lucky and find someone parting one out OR might be able to find a full unit as a parts unit, but the problem of...

I used the 2120's eq board on the 2420. I think I pitched the 2420's old eq board before moving last year. I'll have to check though as it might have gotten tossed in with misc. parts. If I still have it, each slider could be unsoldered. I think it had 3 or 4 good sliders. In lieu of that, the 5...

CA 2120 face won't be a fit for the 2220. I'll need to dig the knobs out tonight but should have all the main ones, but can't remember if all/most of slider knobs are there or not.

I still have the knobs somewhere and the faceplate which was in good shape.

If all you need is to fill the small hole, you can always heat plastic up to a liquid state and carefully pour a few drops in. Something simple like a plastic bottle cap (remove rubber seal in cap) or even a BIC pen (just the hollow case) when heated in something like a small baking pan or...

Anyone know if the heatsink thermal paste needs to be conductive or not conductive?

So to be clear, I install say a 5 amp main fuse to be safe, connect the dim bulb tester, then power the unit up?

Thank you for the illustrations and info. Already have all the electrical bits leftover from my home I'm remodeling. Glad I didn't throw away the old duplex, light sockets, switches, and even 12-2 wiring yet. Does the bulb itself need a separate ground to the AC outlet if using an actual light...

Recapped both power supply boards, and both amp boards, and replaced all the metal resistors on the power supply boards. Upon turning the unit on, front lights come on briefly then it trips the 7 amp. I've double checked orientations, and caps were done right. 3 BiPolar caps were replaced with...

I was wondering about something with regards to resistors. If a 3 watt resistor has a max temp rating of 235 degrees, and a 7 watt has a temp rating almost the same, what am I missing if they can handle the same amount of heat roughly? I went ahead and ordered the 7 and 5 watt Vishay Dale from...

Yeah, the ones in there from the factory all have longer legs and sit away from the board too. Already have the SM. Thanks for the links.

R501, R522, and R523 all have some green oxidization on their legs, similar to what you can sometimes find on car battery terminals. 522 and 523 both appear to have gotten very HOT at times, though the oxidization is enough that the connection through the legs might have been diminished...

Yes thank you. Went with Metal Oxide. Yageo for everything but the 3w which Xicon was only thing high-temp in the 3 watt range. Focused on flame proof and 235c+ max temps. Hopefully it'll survive as good as the factory stuff from 40 years ago. Decided to leave amp board resistors alone though.

They haven't completely failed. Some time back I had found another post (IIRC, something about the protection going off after warmed up) and it was the same issue and seem to remember a discussion about R522 and R523 in the psu and oversights with the way the board is upside down and enclosed...

Also, to be clear, it's referring to metal oxide resistors?

I'm going through my 3125 (recapping both PSU and both AMP boards, plus replacing metal resistors). Some of the metal resistors on psu board, which are part of the protection circuit, are bad and causing protection to stay on for about 5 minutes before going off after unit warms up. SM shows a...

No, never got a follow up.