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Ah... ok... I thought it was like the pot opening on one of my old Yamaha NS speakers. The opening on those are much bigger. So yeah... as you already figured, your tweeter opening is the best to use for experimentation. What you could also do when you do this, is just mount your tweeter...

In the house! Thanks guys for the replies.... Well, I picked them up! Good news: Fantastic original unmolested condition... she was the original owner and the grills have never been removed. Bad news: One tweeter is dead! :tears: Removed it to measure and yes... it's open circuit! Damn...

If you try the tweeter opening, then try pushing tweeter control out from behind by going through the tweeter opening with your hand. You might have some luck by gently rocking it out of place. I doubt the builder used glue to put in that control. Must be like silicone or something. If the...

What about an aperiodic vent? Just looking at the back of the speaker... It could be an easy try. He's got a tweeter control level at the back which can be removed. In that hole you could try some resistive material like fibreglass or Dacron or something. This way nothing gets destroyed...

I'm going to look at a pair of these tomorrow morning. Not cheap that's for sure! Don't know much about them as far as physical condition is concerned. I have a few questions... Assuming that they are in good working condition... Do I need to be concerned about the tweeters in these things...

Impedance is important here but what is also important is that the inductance of both tweeters are the same. The voice coil around the former has it's own inductance measured in mH's... You need to make sure that both are very close. Now that the coils you fixed are back to gether with glue...

This all depends on the efficiency of the speaker. You can easily turn the amp up to half way if your speakers are rated... say 85 db efficiency. It soaks up the power so to speak. I can easily do that half way thing without harm with some of my speakers. The HPM's on the other hand ARE NOT...

Just out of curiosity... Did you have the loudness button pressed in when this happened? OR... did you have the bass turned up at all or was everything set to flat?

Update... Well... finally got the dm12's. When I first hooked them up I got scared. Things didn't sound right at all. Out of phase, dark with no lower treble. It couldn't be worse! Took them apart and found out that the wiring was all wrong. someone has definitely been in there mucking...

Yeah, I heard they (dm-12's) require power... I think a TFM-55 should do it. I have a few Marantz 100 watt plus amps that could do the job too I think. Maybe I'll wait till the 12's show up, get a proper read on them and then if I like them, do some hunting for a slightly larger model. I've...

I'm considering a pair of vintage large monitor type B&W's... Was thinking maybe dm-7 or dm-14 or dm-1400 Anyone have any suggestions as to which one might be a good one to look for? I pulled the trigger on a small pair of dm-12's but I won't get to pick them up until later this spring...

Oh, I don't doubt that one bit... I'd like to find a proper replacement and then sort things out from there...

I have an old beat up 2250 hanging around... Is there anyway to rig something up with that?

Can anyone point me in the direction as to where I can find a replacement volume pot for a 2325? I've been searching the auctions for a while and nothing has come up... I picked up the receiver without the original in it so I don't have the option of trying to clean what is in there. The pot...

Thanks guys! Inverted it will be.... All the best!

I use one daily... excellent preamp. There are others that offer a more precise sound and a larger soundstage but the 3600 has excellent tone in my opinion. Very warm, smooth and extremely non fatiguing.

When refoaming a pair of 8 inch down firing woofers, does it matter whether the foam is inverted or not? Is it just cosmetic or is there another reason for it? The original is inverted for what it's worth... Is it just a clearance issue maybe? :scratch2: Thanks for the help guys...

Thanks guys! "Avoid" I will....

Anyone know what these are? I'm stumped! :scratch2:

I'm looking at a 2330 right now... How different are they to a 2325? They look at first glance to be very similar inside. Are there and differences to the design at all? Anyone out there have both and can give an opinion as to what they find the differences in sound to be? Thanks for the input.

I just picked up a pair of Mirage M-590i for a really good price. I have to admit... I'm kind of blown away. I've been a front radiating speaker fan for years but these little guys are making me change the way I think about what is a believable soundstage. Not quite as pin point as my Energy...

How about a mix of modern and 80's vintage? The speakers are a pair of Energy Reference Conns in Rosewood. I'd say around mid 80's is when they were made. They have a cool modern look to them I think. Everyone that has seen them was impressed how well they meshed with the more...

I have a Hitachi HMA-8500 MKII Mosfet amp and matching HCA preamp... On the back of each unit there is an option of either hooking them together via Condenser coupling or Direct coupling... Can anyone tell me the difference between the two? and which one is the preferred hook up option? Thanks

I guess it's a trade off in terms of where you place your importance. Do you want to achieve a bit better tonality at the expense of mucking the sound up a bit (The quality of the eq will dictate how much of this is going to be an issue). or do you strive for the cleanest signal without an eq...

I agree with this statement. I've been through many different loudspeakers to finally get what I want (which is an essentially flat sounding system with a bit of balls in the bottom end) I've tried many eq's and I find that they induce too much noise into the chain. The "clean" sound I find...