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After a lengthy illness, I am going to start up and hopefully finish the AU70 and a Pioneer SM83 that were on the bench when my problems came up. As soon as I get my pilots tweaked. Half the parts I bought for the AU70, which were more than any other I have worked on, have wondered off over the...

If the cqp is anywhere in the circuit, shouldnt it do the same thing, i.e. at the outlet? Just moving it up the line. oldman

Bill, so adding the cap anywhere on the power or extension cord, or even at outlet device in/at the wall would work? Turned down volume but problem still persist. Thanks for the tip. Old as dirt

on a related subject, I dont know if it is my setup but a always get a loud "pop" when I power down my tube gear. they are all fed off of a 10A variac with a toggle for a power switch. May have blown one of my low wattage speakers due to the pop. Is is as simple as shutting down the amps first...

Thanks to all for the input and much needed advice. As this is getting a bit more complex than I was hoping (just wanted to hit a switch), I may just dedicate one highest rated four speakers to the SS system an have a seperate system which I am sure will satisfy the requirement of a background...

what about of leaving the tube amps off? wont the SS amp feed the speakers fine, albeit maybe too much power on those vintage speakers?

hello again In my listening room, I am running 4 tube systems with vintage speakers (thru one source via a Rolls gain/attenuator). On occasion I would like to be able to have my old SS amp connected to the spreakers for backround music, leaving the house, etc. I was thinking of just putting a...

Thanks to all. Oldman getting older but car still running

Mods Pls move to appropriate forum. Guess will drop the wireless speakers.

My daughter wants to ditch the vintage tube system (along with associated separates and wiring) that I gave here. Looking for suggestions on an integrated system with: Fairly good sound quality (not an audiophile) Consumer priced 50w/side or better if SS Bluetooth Wireless speakers...

Took amp to bench and went straight into source...click quit. Traced it back to the Rolls distribution amp of which for once it was the only amp running thru it. Was working on wire management and wall wart wasnt connected to it . Wiring looks alot better better now: Apologies for taking your...

Both speakers. Nothing apparent. The same intervals should tell me something.

The unit was refurbed with all new PS, caps, rectifiers, etc. Every 22 seconds, there is a mid range "click"/"pop" similar to a deep scratch in an LP. Happens with and without a music source. Any thoughts? Thanks oldman

1) What if I put in a pot in lieu of resistor to dial in the resistance. Then add the zener mod along with shuffling through my box of 7868s for a better match? Downside? I dont really understand the zener diode affect on the bias voltage going to the output tubes. old and confused. 2) I have...

So I will have to remove or raise the resistor to get the current down? And then add the mod? I'm sure I can dig around and find a closer match.

I went back to see what I did on the X 101 D and across 10 ohm cathode resistor get .58V, .54V .57V,.48V ..and bias is 27V/38V. I read in another thread that the 500 ohm 7W resistor can be replaced with a 1.2k 2W. Seems like it would blow but any other harm in trying prior to the zeners mod...

Awhile back I had the same issue with a X-101-D. Dave was working on the diode fix at the time. Short of implementing the mod, what would be the best way to "adjust" this unit so that it doesnt put too much stress on the old vintage 7868s? bias is 25v/39v across 1 ohm (1%) cathode resistors-...

In removing wires, I checked C14 and though disconnected from terminal 1 of the switch, the cap still went to ground. The shielded wire connecting it to the switch is shorted internally to the grounded shield as all looks fine externally. Jumped C14 to the switch and....STEREO. Though not...

Was trying to avoid removing all connections to the 6 terminals as its tight in there. If I do so and all works, would anything else be needed to have it working except for the bypassed switch, assuming that the switch is the issue? Or do I do the same for the other channel. And what about the...

Appears all wiring is correct. Note that more than just terminals 3 and 4 go to ground as shown on image;

From X2 to Pin 1 and 6; I measure 300k and 306k ohms. Guess I misspoke; it reads as open when measured from ground.

The three high cut pec wires rang to ground, none of the low cut did. old Excuse my error if I had it backwards.

Since the cap going to pin 2 (pin 7 in except) is grounded, wouldn't it be the low cut that has issues? See my edit above.

Thanks for the info from the assembly manual. I'll get into it and maybe even rewire some of the questionable work. I do use a turntable but run it through another pre. Though not useful, I would like to keep the unit as original as possible. Chances of someone parting out a unit where I could...

Contour switch, High cut switch, Low cut switch, blend.....what were they thinking? I have a Pilot 110 that rivals "high end" consumer amps on my shelf for sound quality and certainly for reliability. Look at the mess that the marketing dept left to the kit builders. This has all of the controls...