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I had the flexible pc, connecter felt like it was made of glass and the connection were hilariously flimsy.

I did pairs of wires that were already bonded at the spool, to help differentiate wire pairs. I see no need to keep them bonded though. Just use some solid core and it shouldn't take too long. Took longer to desolder

Just another heads up. Use this 8080db in my living room, and noticed there was a bit of background hiss/noise so figured time for another recap adventure. Upon completion, lost both channels. A surprise to nobody it was the db ribbon cable. As much of a pain as it is, if you're in there just...

Had a bunch made myself actually! Did the RIAA, EFB, and the IBAM.

Thanks!

Hey everyone Didn't see anyone else post something about it, so here's some pics of the RIAA pcb's installed in a Fisher 400. All this does is bring the RIAA equalization closer to neutral for the phono based on Dave's awesome findings on it. Pretty easy install. Plan at some point to make a...

No proper calculations yet, just a mock-up as I'm still fairly new to circuit design. Mostly curious if y'all may have some pointers!

Just a placeholder for now, depending on what I can source mostly.

This looks like something cool to look into thanks.

Planning around, and have this for my current 250V regulated psu setup. Figured I'd post here in case someone has some insight into what I could do to have even less ripple. Designing my own 6922 based preamp.

Such an obvious answer. I have a really nice B&K transistor tester, just for whatever reason never crossed my mind to do that. Thanks!

Thank you very much man! Ended up tossing the 2sc1400's before going back to think about checking the pinout. Going to save that photo to my pinout sheet haha.

Replacing the 1400's on a 9090db f2624 driver board. Datasheets are showing a different pinout than the installed. I'm 95% sure the pinout is the same as the KSC1845 replacement, but just double checking to be 100%!

That's very good to know! Thanks man.

Really? Are the schematics themselves wrong often or the layouts?

Sounds way cooler than I expected it too if I'm being honest

Straight up, ignore the manual for markings. Easiest just to check the schematic and see where the leads need to go. Feels like they're mislabeled too often.

Modern transistors for me have mostly been pretty close in gain to each other, so if you can't match it's not the end of the world.

Most of the 737's that come my way with protection issues end up being problems with either the 2SC1451's, or the relay itself.

Definitely don't forget to check this out: https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/top-ten-worst-transistors-noisy-failure-prone-whatever-and-replacements.731653/ Gives you a baseline transistor wise to build off of. My personal favorite direct result after recap/transistor swap is a...

Just looking at the datasheet of the HA1156, Q10 is part of the mono circuit. You should be able to remove it for testing as pins 8/9 are connected by the cap for a low pass filter. Pin 2 on HA1156 is the input from HA1137, you said all the voltage except for pin 8 are ok on ha1156 right? If...

@vmedia Yep, just a side comment! For some odd reason I get a ton of 636's and 737's my way, replacing those often fixes background static/hiss. Did you check the voltages on HA1137 in the 737? Just looking at the schematic, replacing the 2SA726's wouldn't be a bad idea either (on the radio...

A bit hard to tell from the photo, but if those are a light blue sanyo cap they tend to go bad and cause all sorts of strange issues.

Also if you haven't, replace the 2sc1451's on the driver board with KSC3503's. They often go bad and cause all sorts of issues, just watch the pinout.

At this point I just pull them and swap the blue sanyo caps. Tested them initially but after just how many were always bad figure there's no point anymore, in the bin they go.