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I finally figured out why I was unable to recall the stations I preset on my UDRA-M10. It was because I was using the wrong remote. I was using a RC-877 remote and I should have been using a RC-846 remote. As soon as I got the 846 I was able to recall the stations I preset with the preset...

Ok I figured out how to set the clock to the current time on a Denon UDRA-M10 again. This time I'm writing it down just in case I forget how to do it again later. This is how to do it using only the buttons on the front panel, you don't need to use the remote. 1. With the power off hold down...

Bimaster, are you still around? I pulled out my Denon UDRA M-10 today after not using for several years and I forgot how to set the time. Back in 2018 I posted that I had figured out how to set the time? I wish I would have posted how I did it back then as now I can't figure out how to do it...

Thanks, I'll give those a try.

I'll probably just keep using the originals as they are still working fine. I don't like putting a 100V capacitor in a circuit with 95V rails. They would work to replace the two 80V caps so thanks for the link.

Actually I wouldn't recommend ordering those 10,000mF Hitachi 160V capacitors on AliExpress as I received them today and I checked their capacitance on my tester and they were not even to close to 10,000mF. I ordered four and these are the values that I got when I checked the four capacitors...

OK I'll try that what is the voltage rating for the caps?

OK I'll order some. So changing those gave you better bass response? If you are looking for a replacement cap for the125V 10000uf, I think I found some Hitachi 105C 10000uf caps on AliExpress that might work. They come in 100V, 125V, 160V. Just go to AliExpress and do a search for Hitachi 160V...

I agree with you completely I was running a pair of Energy Connoisseur C-4 speakers together with a pair of NHT SB-1 speakers and I thought they sounded much better together than when I played them individually. I also have a pair of Yamaha NS-500 speakers but I don't use them anymore. I...

It doesn't look like the Niko Alpha 230 is bridgeable but if you have speakers that have two sets of speaker terminals on them that are connected by a shorting bar you could remove the shorting bar and bi-amp the speakers. I did that with two Imotiva A100 amplifiers that were only rated at 50...

That Niko Alpha 230 is a nice looking amplifier, I like the level meters on the front. Since you have two, I was wondering if it could be bridged to make it a mono amplifier?

Well I think I've found some power supply caps on AliExpress that will work to replace the 10000uf 125V caps that nobody seems to be able to find anymore. I haven't gotten them yet but I have ordered four of the 160V 10000uf 2-pin Hitachi and it only cost me $27. The two pins look like they are...

Thanks for taking the time to reply. Do you still own the 2600a?

Thanks, I see you now have C215-C218 listed as 1000uf where as before you said to change to 470uf. Also is this for both the 2200 and the 2200 PE? I have the 2200 PE.

Did you ever change those C215, C216, C217, C218 caps from 2.2uf to 470uf? I'm a little hesitant to make such a big change.

I forgot to tell you I ended up selling mine on Craig's List for $550. It's too heavy at nearly 50 lbs. so decided to sell it locally.

I actually have a Onkyo P-304 preamp that I think I will keep as it sounds really good. I also have a Schitt Asgard 3 headphone amp that I also use as a preamp and I've did A - B listening tests between it and the P-304 and I can't really say either one sound better than the other they both...

I saw that guy on Ebay selling the kit for $190 and he sends you all of the caps that need replacing. So if you replace all of the electrolytic caps you should have a really nice amp. You are much more adventurous than I am; that is a lot of work. I wish you the best of luck and let me know...

I'd think it would be pretty expensive as it is very difficult to remove the original four pin caps because they have copper plates soldered in place over the pins. Then the replacement 2 pin capacitors will have to have U shaped brackets soldered to the two pins creating four pins so they will...

You are right, the bias setting are more important when using a push-pull amplifier and you want to make sure the two output tubes in one channel are balanced so one of them isn't working harder than the other one. It doesn't seem so important in a SET amplifier that only has one output tube...

I'm looking at new tube replacements for both the 12AX7 and 12AU7 and the Tung-Sols sound pretty good at half the price of the Gold Lion tubes. Does anyone think it is worth paying the extra for the Gold Lion? I'm thinking of maybe getting Gold Lion for the 12AX7s as they have a gain factor of...

It likes the Gold Lion 12AX7 might be one of the best of the new ones.

That is good to know. It seems like it might be a problem when the tubes get older as they might still be as closely matched. If you are using four EL34s and one fails with the cathode bias you might have to buy four new matched tubes whereas maybe if you could could adjust the bias on each tube...

The Willsenton R-F35i comes with bluetooth and remote and comes in red or dark blue . Here are a few pictures.