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I believe the MicroLubrol fluid is compatible with Dow/Corning 200, it is certainly sold as a substitute. I think that the fluid that I bought years ago from Stanalog (unmarked viscosity) is higher viscosity than 50 cSt. Dow 200 fluid is available in 10 cSt to 60,000 cSt -- at least. My need is...

Thanks for the info. Did you mix the MicroLubrol with what was already in the bearing well, or empty/clean first? I've read that 50 cSt is roughly equivalent to SAE 10W--pretty thin!. I have about 10cc left in the original WTT vial, it seems like higher viscosity than SAE 10W. When I pull the...

I have purchased replacement silicone fluid for the WTA "bearing" in the past from Stanalog and Tower Hobbies--100K cSt. I have a good supply. As for the WTT main bearing, I prefer not convert to synthetic motor oil. Does anyone know what viscsity silicone fluid is used in the main bearing? I...

FYI: My WTT Classic still has its original belt after ~20 years. No perceptible stretching--the square motor is sitting flush with the base and it (barely) will stay on the black damped platter when the motor/pulley is removed. I am very careful to avoid any stretching while cleaning it and...

Merry Christmas and thanks for all the helpful replies. My WTT Classic is once again producing great sound! The first track I listened to Birdland by Earl Hines on M&K's "Fatha". Startling and with amazingly effortless transients and dynamics. Better than I remembered. I forgot about tweaking...

After about 20+ years of owning three WT Arms (one at a time) I just noticed that the paddle holes on my current arm were a bit rotated CW from 3:00 and 9:00. I couldn't find a spec for that parameter and wondered if has "drifted" somehow. Thank you. FYI: I am in the process of setting up my WTT...

Favor to ask: Could someone with a classic WTA (that is tracking well) post a photo taken directly overhead of the gantry and arm fluid cup? I am interested in seeing how the holes in the submerged white paddle are positioned relative to arm tube. From directly above, if you picture the arm tube...

Based on my experience: The OP will likely have little trouble getting help from ebay. The posting title says "...with cartridge" and the description says "working". No need to debate that here--you can call ebay and get their input without making a decision during the call. I have run low...

On a first build it may be best to establish a baseline with the stock circuit before adding variables by making changes. FYI: In the late 70s and 80s it was common to do just the opposite of what you did wrt ac coupling--i.e. tube amps were often bandwith limited to avoid saturating the OPT...

I would return the amps to the tech and ask for a comprehensive bench check of both amps. If you have a digital multimeter and an iphone you could do some basic tests yourself. Download an AF generator application and simultaneously drive your amps inputs with a moderate level (tolerable level)...

I think the closest you will come is JoLida. The amps are built in PRC then shipped to Maryland where they are prepped for US sale. I think PrimaLuna uses a similar business model... but they are not what I would consider "cheap".

"...cook these beauties" Are you referring to the amps? You are not likely to hurt the amps by playing them loud. You might damage your tweeters or blow out your woofers if the amps were to become unstable due to driving an odd load. As you know the original ESLs are not at their best playing...

FYI: "Pass" usually refers to Nelson Pass the founder of Threshold, First Watt, and Pass Labs. Dynaco offered three preamps in the PAS 3 family... PAS2/3/3X. The PAS 2 and PAS 3 are essentially the same preamp. Some people prefer the industrial design of one over the other. All three were...

Have you tried running your DAC or other line level source straight into the ST-70? A passive attenuator is all you would need. Do you listen to vinyl? You might consider a MM phono stage like the Bellari that has a level control and run that into your Stereo 70. I have had several ST-70s...

If the amp has solid state rectification it would be unwise to power it up without the tubes inserted. With the tubes out you run the risk of overvoltaging the B+ caps. If you insist on powering the amp up... I would suggest a 25-40W incandescent dim bulb. It should light up pretty bright at...

If an amplifier uses tube rectification I pull all the tubes before doing a dim bulb test. The bulb should light them dim down as the filaments heat. If the lamp stays bright you have an issue. Do not plug the rectifier back in. Debug. If the lamp dims, put all the tubes in except the rectifier...

Finding a socket with dimensions that match the one you are replacing can be a challenge. I ended up buying 4-5 octal sockets before I found one that had the correct diameter, depth, mounting hole spacing, etc. for my tube tester. Now I own several socket savers!

FYI: A new pair of reproduction cages for Dynaco MkIII cost $160. I wouldn't sell my genuine MkIII cages for that. I have seen Quicksilver cages that were plated and others that were painted (neither looked particularly good to my eyes). Given the chance to buy cages for out of production tube...

The biggest difference is cost of manufacturing. Think of a stereo power amp as a two-story home and a pair of monoblocks as two separate single story homes. Like a two story home a stereo amp shares a single foundation (chassis), a single HVAC system (think power supply) and a single roof...

FYI: Some of the most musically pleasing bass I have heard in my listening room came from an old pair of Vandersteens being driven by a much older single ended EL-84 based amp. Not particularly loud, but very satisfying.

These days many tube power amps are sold with a potentiometer between the input RCA jack and the grid of the first stage. The pot serves the function of a volume control much like a "passive preamp" would do. Odds are that your amp's input sensitivity is around 500mV to deliver its rated...

A MkIII has potentially lethal voltages above and below the chassis--even after unplugging it. If you are unable to recognize a diode or a capacitor I would urge you to get expert help. Your local guitar amplifier repairman might be a good resource for you. www.dynakitparts.com can supply you...

Sounds like the 2A fast blow did its job. I have a drawer full of glass fuses and just use the smallest fast blow that doesn't yield at cold power up. 1A works fine in my Magnavox SE EL-84 amp.

If you are using 3-wire IEC power cords you will want to isolate (float) the ground pins on all but one. One easy way to do this is with a cheap power strip... either cut off the ground pin or use a three prong adapter with the ground pin cut off. Plug everything into this strip except the...

Thanks for the number, I will try giving Jolida a call tomorrow. Is the SJ-101 from Maryland? If so I hope they don't have trouble finding a schematic. I began the tear down today and find the Jolida to be a mix of good and not so good. The component quality is very good but the interior...