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I've not seen this type before? from a 1060 that has a pair of MJ15015 in the other channel.

I've had it for a while, it's got issues. Busted case and no sound. Just getting familiar with it tonight and blowing out some dust. It's too big for my lazy Susan.

Do I need it?

Neighbor gave me his CD 3 because it didn't open without some love. A new belt set from eBay, service manual from HiFiEngine and we're off. First open the CD door and pull the drawer face up to remove it. Remove the faceplate (two screws on top and three on the bottom) and fold out of the way...

So I've got this 5050 that was a mess, worked out problem after problem and I'm down to one. One channel has a voltage oddity as noted below. I've got a 6060 amp board I can swap in and it works fine. I've recapped, replaced all transistors and trimmers, measured all resistors, swapped all disc...

It'll play for hours/days and be fine then POP, it drops into protection for a half second then recovers and plays fine. Reflowed any solder that looked close to suspect. Tapped on everything with a wooden stick. Wasted a can of freeze spray and hit it with a heat gun with no pops. I don't know...

Working on a botched "recap" 2230 S/N 159924 that it appears to have old and new boards (one H757 1N4448 and one thermistor/resistor), I replaced the thermistor with a 1N4448. Difference #2 is a resistor on the back of the board (R781?) on the thermistor board but none on the other. Did someone...

Some of my "flameproof' resistors look like they've seen some heat, I don't see folks replacing them. Should I worry about it? Bias/offset in progress, fun amp to work on.

Odds that the issue is the meter vs. circuitry behind it? I really don't NEED another P2200 but one is available locally in better shape than mine but the meter is an issue.

Anybody had one apart? Is there a fix or replacement? The "ball track" has been damaged?

Sanyo bought Fisher in 1975 and this amp came out in 1977, it seems to be rare and pretty well built with T03 outputs and a clean layout. Rated at 70wpc with 10,000uf filter caps. It was cheap enough at $50 with the matching tuner, a pair of Infinity RSe speakers with Rat Shack subwoofers and...

I've got one with issues, I'm WAY out of my comfort zone even though I'm 3/4 Norwegian by blood. Powering up on a 100W DBT I got a puff of smoke (see pic for 220ΩX2), after disassembly I thought I had a shorted transistor but upon further review the trace is actually shorting them. I'm pretty...

Bought a broken 2330B and found two blown outputs, replaced all outputs with a shipset of Onsemis and checked all drivers and diodes on the AMP board. . On a 100W DBT it still glows more than I'm comfortable with and no relay click, I can unplug either amp board channel and the problem remains...

Doing a favor for a friend and checking out a dead SX-880, found Q26 (2SD712) to be bad and the board under it discolored. Searching found that to be a typical issue so I found a bigger heat sink from a junk board and installed an *MJE15032G. It's still uncomfortably hot (my little Harbor...

I have an open primary in my 1040, some excavation found an open fuse, is it thermal or current sensitive? Is there a replacement? Safe to just bypass (I'm guessing no)? ETA: The fuse says 10A 250V 149C Thanks! Good to have the search function back.

I just finished fixing a 930 that came without the wood case screws, everything in my bucket-o-bolts seems too big or too small. They seem to be machine screws, any help would be appreciated. Tomorrow I go to ACE Hardware and try to find the best option.

New to me at a price I couldn't pass up. I had the pleasure of being the first person to pry this grill off since it was RTVd on 45 years ago. One sounds like the crossover is flopping around on the inside so i have to pry off the woofer and reapply the RTV.

The circumference fits the hole perfectly and there aren't any extra mounting screw holes but all innernet pics are inconclusive.

What are they? There's a story I'll share when it plays out.

My favorite big amp is a hammered $100 Alpha One that was owned by a DJ, it's had a hard life but still sounds great. The plan: Spend more money than it's worth on a spa day for the poor thing. New capacitors, relays, trimmers and some other bits and bobs. Filter caps are limited to this one due...

https://www.chip1.com/search?partno=MJ21194G+ Everybody is out, a Reddit user on r/vintageaudio recommended Chip 1 for those who are in need. Any experience?

I've got voltage where I shouldn't have voltage and I can't figure out why. I have recapped the amp board, replaced all transistors, checked (all?) resistor values, replaced diodes, swapped the 2SC1030 T03 outputs around a few times, checked for broken traces or solder joints and it's still not...

I've heard good things about FET amps but I've never heard one. Scratch and dent special available locally for pretty low dough. *I've got too many amps but... *P2200, PC2002M(broken), BA2000, Spec-4 Mitsubishi DA-A10DC, Nikko Alpha 1 (my BFF).

P2100 with one channel out, bad cap. Recapped and it's all good and pretty sweet. Per manual Bias is 13mv but I've read about increasing the bias for better sound. Stick with 13mv or boost it a bit? ETA: Is it best to bring the unit in from the cold shop to set ̶b̶i̶a̶s̶ idle current? I know...

I recently bought a very dirty Spec-4. I spent yesterday cleaning and pulling the outputs to make sure they're good and blowing out cobwebs. On the 100W DBT the protection relays rattle (like others have noted) but don't close. I'm hesitant to plug it in without a positive DBT result. Bigger...