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Very informative thread. I have a couple of Akai's that need work so this is serving as a primer.

Denafrips Ares II. I had the Bifrost 2 and I prefer the Ares II.

Agreed. My MC225 is an excellent amp but does not top my Citation II.

I had a power transformer from a Dynaco Mark III that buzzed. I used this as an adhesive between the laminations and immediately clamped them tight. I left it alone for a day and no more buzzing.

As a safety precaution I returned P1 to its original position.

The DC offset in the left channel measured -330mv while the right channel is -1.2mv. I cranked up P1 as far as it will go and got the left channel down to -117mv. I seem to recall reading that P1 sometimes fails and should be replaced. Is my memory correct and are there any other solutions I...

I'm having the same issue with Chrome desktop. I had to log in using Safari.

When I try to log in the attempt fails. I then click on reset password, follow the link, reset my password and I'm logged in. This is using Chrome and started after the upgrade.

Nice looking deck.

Thanks for the offer but Gregg over at Classic Valve Designs already sent me the instructions.

Thanks! I remember Classic Valve Designs and I believe I did place some orders with them.

I'm pretty sure it is a cap replacement board for a Dynaco ST70 but I don't have any of the documentation for it. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

I pulled out my 1970's pre-recorded Cabaret cassette which I have not listened to in many years. I was not expecting much, given the era in which it was recorded and the age of the tape. However, I was pleasantly surprised as I listened to it through my RX 505, it sounded great!

Definitely silcone. Here is a picture of the inside of one of the bells.

I've rebuilt a number of amps but you can imagine my surprise when I started taking apart a recently acquired Dynaco MK3 and found that the power transformer had been siliconed and screwed to the chassis. It took a lot of effort with a utility knife and a flat-headed screw driver to break them...

I thought about purchasing the auto bias boards but it seemed like overkill.

I'm just starting a rebuild on my MK III's and I decided to go with the tubes 4 hifi 6SN7 based board, as I like the 6SN7 sound. I've also spent some time researching the choke and the consensus seems to be that it's not very good. Here's a link to a recommended, and less expensive...

Congratulations! I've wanted an A77 for a while but, given the machines I have, I just can't justify the purchase. :( Enjoy.

My 250M had an SPS1952 at Q503, I used the BC557 and it worked fine. Note that my 250M is an early version and the amplifier boards do not match the schematic - they are closer to the 240 boards.

Chris Marantz had recommended 2SA483 and 2SC783 for Q510 and Q511.

I have an Aoyue similar to the one above and it works well, Having said that the FR-301 is my go to for desoldering.

+1

I have the DCA and it is excellent. If you want something less expensive that works almost as well try something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/184636875117 It gets the job done.

Years ago I bought an M250 at an auction and when I tested it the left channel was out. I took it apart planning on doing a repair and full recap. Life got in the way and it wasn't until a month ago I was able to get back to it. The rectifier and amp boards are now fully functional but when I...

I also use a Weller gun for the heavy duty stuff. Difficult to use in tight spaces but gets the job done. I bend 14 gauge electric wire into the shape of a tip and use that in lieu of a buying a replacement.