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Just downloaded the software and made the request.

Ok, thanks Athanasios. I appreciate it. Let me know if anything develops!

Much appreciated! Mess? What mess? Er. . . .

Thanks John. I asked Marc, but no go. If you think of anyone else. . . .

I'm working on a Tandberg TD20A that needs a new TBP28L22N flashed. I can provide the PROM, and the data is here. . . https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/tandberg-td20a-prom-data.672697/

The BX-300 wasn't an "entry level" deck. You posted this on Tapeheads, and folks there told you the same thing.

The item shown may (or may not) be from a Marantz 2270. Look familiar?

Sorry, I don't recall.

I've dealt with the same glue staining. Like you, I removed everything from the surface and had to accept the discoloration of the PCB.

Fwiw I've used (and been happy with) this one with a Grundig table top radio and a Philco console. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016NUTG5K/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I picked up two different 6SL7s and swapped them in. No improvement. It was worth a shot. I'm throwing in the towel/accepting the hum. Thanks for the help with this everyone.

In the Marantz Model 30, they are Motorola parts SJE569 (Q210) and SJE570 (Q209), and in the Model 32, they are S33690 (Q209) and S33691 (Q210). Scant to no information about these drivers exist online or in any of my transistor sub books. The best direction I've been able to find with regard to...

I had picked up a new 25L6 to swap in for each of the outputs (no change). But I only had an unknown condition 6SL7 to sub for V1 and V2, so that remains a possibility. I'll get a known good 6SL7 (or two) and try again.

Finished going through the schematic and checking the value of every component and every connection. I fixed two bad solder joints and replaced one out-of-spec resistor that I had missed. Also tried the suggestion of gadget73 and put a temporary foil-lined bottom in place. Unfortunately, no...

Did you confirm that the motors are receiving the correct voltage?

Good, I knew it had to come out that way. You often have to do a little finagling with other parts, e.g. the faceplate and row of switches.

There are now four visible screws in the corners. Remove those and the transport should lift out

I just looked at the service manual. So the four screw holes shown in your first photo don't correspond to the screws shown in the exploded diagram?

I plan to at some point but don't have one now.

C16 is new (and the correct value). One end is soldered to where a terminal strip is riveted to the steel board that most of the components are mounted on. This board connects to the larger metal plinth/structure of the unit via three screws--the ground connection between these two metal pieces...

I'm going to go over all of the wiring/connections again to make sure nothing was inadvertently moved out of its original position when I tilted the assembly back for access. Then I'll try both suggestions and circle back.

@gadget73 Forgot to answer your other question: The case for this has a wood bottom, unfortunately.

Ok, I'll check, though I should clarify that the objectionable level of hum is already there with both pots turned down. It's only when I ground the grid of V2 with a jumper that it dissipates.

Yeah, the fiberglass sleeve is hiding the shield wire. On the one hand it shows Califone was at least trying to prevent hum, though you wouldn't know it from all the AC carrying wires in the area.

From wiper to ground for the mic gain pot I measure about 14 ohms. For the phono gain pot it's around 17 ohms. There actually already is a sleeve of braided wire around the wire that goes from the volume and tone control connection point to the grid of V2. The end that's closest to the grid...