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175 - 6.7 ohms D130 - 6.3 ohms D175 - 6.8 ohms D130A - 6.1 ohms Few pics of the inside of the old crossover below. 4.5 ohms resistance across the HF terminals, 24.9 ohms across the LF terminals. So I'm done, they sound ok. Definitely different but ok enough. Gonna clean the grill cloth...

Here are some more pics...Both horns have the JBL wax seals on em still. The pics of the back are of the D130a

FYI the D130 has the Al dust cap, the D130a has the paper cap. Both are doped, I dont know why. Maybe they were reconed? Ok, had a listen...not great. They both sounded completely different and they sounded like they were from the 50s. But I dug in a bit. The walnut cabinet first. This...

Well I did pay less than 5 bills. Like I said, low ball offer. Sounds like the biggest difference then is the woofer. Other than age the horns are the same. What's with the crossover though? One had an adjustment and is mounted in the rear of the cabinet, the other has no adjustment and is...

Well I didnt think they would take my low ball offer but they did. So here is what I have. Please help me figure out what I got here. Mahogany? N1200 crossover with the adjustment in the back, all wires run through the back of the cabinet D130, serial 11045 Horn driver Model 175, Serial 14968...

Well I did look at em. Didn't wanna take anything apart, but from what I could tell looking through the grills one was a d130 no horn and the other was your standard 130a n1200 etc etc. The d130 cabinet was in pretty nice shape, the one to match so far as I'm concerned. Which ment the other...

I did find the catalog page that showed the options. I have had some experience with old speakers. Last set of AR2AX I bought needed quite a bit of work. Aside from the cabinets, the crossovers recapped, pots were trashed, and even then one never sounded right. It had a bad midrange. It...

Hmm ok. Any way to tell if the cabinets are original or home built? Correct drivers would be the 130a woofer and a potato masher horn...did these come with just a d130 driver and no tweeter? I'm not familiar with these speakers really. Not sure I'll pull the trigger on these trying to match...

Hey all, so I have a chance to pick up this non matched pair of what look like JBL C34 speakers. One looks like it has the 1200 crossover...but the other looks like it just has regular speaker terminals. The cabinets don't match, the grills are different as well. Not sure if they are both...

Exactly, heat reasons is definitely a huge reason for led replacement. And I have experienced the fittament issue with bayonet style led replacements. The and caps of the LED are too large sometimes, and length isn't always right.

Great info. I'm all about LED everything, but you run into a few issues. Color first off. I dislike very much "cool blue" or anything above 4000k. I held back my choice of words for that one haha. Natural white between 3k and 4k is tolerable. 2700 is where it's at for incandescent...

Excellent! This is the info I needed. D608, lift it off the board for better air circulation around the diode? Should I replace it as well? Also I'm curious about the relay. In my diagnostics figuring out where it had issues when I got it, I removed the relay, opened it up and cleaned the...

Wow this thread started out good, went way out there and came back. I'm glad it did and I'm glad I didn't post last night haha. All good valid points. I am not an tech on this level and I would never claim to be. I do however understand the value in replacing components with proper...

My problem with if ain't broke don't fix it, is a 40 year old cap can be a time bomb. And when one fails, they can cause quite a bit of damage. If it was a guitar amp or audio compressor, something that needs to retain it's earned drift in components to sound amazing that's one thing. But...

Really? I've used em before from that seller and the parts Inside the kit were fine, name brand stuff, mostly nichicon stuff. Is there a brand I should be looking for Instead? Just kinda want some more info about what I should avoid and why

Heyoo...So I inherited a 4100 from my uncle, who got it from my grandpa, who bought it new. I remember this thing singing loud through a pair of Klipsch hersays, always had a fondness for it. Uncle had issues with it, started cutting out channels and he put it away. Laid dormant for over 10...

I don't have the jumpers no. This thing had a Sound Concepts image restoration control IR200 on it ever since I can remember. I would like to find a set of jumpers though. Already used deoxit on the switches, that fixed it's issues. I did spray it in the balance loudness pots as well because...

Hey all. So forever ago, my grandpa bought a McIntosh 4100. I remember this thing being a beast as a kid. Then he upgraded to a Sharp 6 disc CD changer/receiver SA-CD800. Always was kinda disappointed with that decision. And while the Sharp was actually a pretty decent unit, it was no Mac...

Good to know. I got the emitter in the right spot on all of em, I had mixed up the collector and the base.

No issue, I did this late last night, just a good reason I shouldn't do these things when I'm getting tired, I knew better haha. I had Q1 and Q2 in wrong, that didn't fix it. Q7 I put in wrong also. That fixed it. Relay takes a good almost 2 seconds to close, no pop. Relay also turns right...

Yeah, I checked all the caps but I'm going to recheck them all and the placement of all transistors

Yeah, on full voltage it pops...granted all I have done to this point is the power supply board and the protection board. But how long it is normally for the relay to close from power on? This is almost immediate, it's never closed that fast

Ok, well I replaced q1 2 3 4 with the 1845, q5 with the 992, Q6 with the 2383 Q7 with the 2690 All the caps were replaced, the only value that changed was C3 an C4 went from a 330uf to a 470uf Bringing it up on the variac at about 60v the protection relay closes, was sooner than it did...

Ok here is my confusion, the instructions I got say Q1 2 3 and 4 use ksc1845 Q6 and 8 use ksc 2383 My kit came with 4x ksc1845, 2x ksc2383, 1x C2790A-Y (Q7) 1x A992 (Q5) Also my board has c869, not c857. I assume Q1 and Q2 should be 857 and the 869 was an equivalent at the time it was...

TF3733460 is the serial