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my parts arrived today, i ordered 12 of these diodes incase the first one i make doesnt come out as expected.and im not entirely sure these ring terminals i ordered are going to be big enough, but i ordered 25 of those so ill figure something out.

on the closeups, i think i know what yer wantin to see, this is the best my camera can do on this as, any closer and it wont focus. as far as a picture of the back of the board goes, ill have to take the outputs out and remove the heatsink to even get close to that. in the meantime though, i...

is r71/72 directly under Q8 and Q7? I see them in the parts list as 1 ohm, but i cant find them on the schematic by their R number, but i do see what appears to be a 1 ohm resistor under that transistor with an R number that i cant make out. edit: i just measured them, if thats the right ones...

Hey folks. Does anyone out there have a current parts list handy for this model? im going to be doing another order with mouser soon and thought I might get this thing up and running in the process. im going on memory at this point, as its been a few years since ive fooled with it, it does...

ive been reading more of that thread and his various updates along the way, looks like uf1004 or 4004 is the better way to go in that case. the idea of mounting it to a ring terminal with jbweld is pretty clever as well. that certainly make getting it on the heatsink easier. and getting it off...

oh and uh, heres the pictures.. pay no mind to those disconnected output wires in the final shot, i soldered those back on

aye, I dont understand why the left one would be damaged either. ive replaced 22 parts on each side of the board, so 44 in total for the board, and all 8 outputs, but i missed this and that means i coulda missed something else too. ill link a before and after shot in this thread for clarity...

i put a 4.67k ohm (all i could find, seem to have lost my giant box of resistors) in series with a 9v battery and the meter, measuring vdc i got 400mv one way and 9.3v the other way on the left sides 4h, i tried a diode test with this arrangement on some other diodes to ensure i understood the...

I never thought about that, will give it a try in the morning. I know my meter can test 2 in series but i dont know where it draws the line. just another reason to get a fluke i guess. Theres a link to the original thread on the receiver in the first post, it has everything i know about it up...

just to update this thread since im now done with my other thread, i took these, varistors? out of circuit and measured them again, no change. one is open both directions, one is shorted.

i took them out of circuit, the readings are unchanged. one is open both ways, other one is shorted. what could cause that? the left side of the board appeared to survive, only the right side of the board had damage, but the left side is the one thats open. i think it kinda does explain tho...

ill take them out of circuit and measure them.. but just so im clear, the stv4h is basically 4 silicon diodes in series right? so i should get a forward reading of 2.000 or higher and nothing in reverse right?

Greetings all, this post is part of a larger overall problem im working on but I wanted to make this separate in the hopes of a quicker answer to this specific line of questions (i assume this is allowed, if it isnt, my sincere apologies.) the original thread will be linked at the bottom of...

so ive been reading the manual this morning, tracing things back, if im reading it right, pin 30 takes a direct path to pin 31, which is the collectors of the outputs, which do show voltage, but they also take a second route, through a diode, through a capacitor, into the base of Q12, where it...

I need to measure these again i think, just to be certain i didnt miss/double read/ or outright skip one but here are the voltages going into the amp board. pin 1 and 2 are -60.5, their counterparts pin 16 and 17 are -60.6 pin 3 is 0.5mv, pin 18 is -0.4 volts pin 4 and 5 are 35.97 volts, pin 19...

i did some quick checks just so i could get this information to you sooner, i have a lot of other work to do this morning before i can do thorough voltage testing or anything on this, im going to have to devise a safe way to get to the collector of Q6 because my hand shakes and that one is...

devices as in outputs? 863-MJ21195G pnp output 863-MJ21196G npn output im using everything from markthefixer's post in this thread. as far as checking voltages, its been storming, its still storming. it looks like be doing that tomorrow. if it is normal for it to be higher with these outputs...

so far in trying to adjust the bias there seems to be a problem. steps i took: removed preamp-amp jumpers, turned speaker selectors off, aux input, volume all the way down. vr 3 and 4 fully ccw vr 1 and 2 seem to work and i got those down to around 10mv on pins 9/10 and 24/25, couldnt seem to...

turntablebasics has 300,000cSt listed for the cueing mech on what they sell, i have no personal experience with the product but a video i watched from someone on youtube it seemed to do what it was supposed to do.

thats where i called it a day yesterday, offset and bias still have to be adjusted, that power up test is in its "its a complete amp again" stage. ill be getting back to work on this a little later this morning.

i just went and measured 2 of them on the ohm setting, it slowly counts up, doesnt seem to ever stop, i quit after they reached 1.5k ohm

with the meter on the diode function it shows 0.2 between the case(collector) and ground. i didnt measure resistance as i understand what the diode numbers mean in terms of a short circuit better. ive been sitting here thinking about it and im leaning towards that being normal, seeing as all...

ive been checking my work as i go and ive run into something im not sure about... so after installing each output transistor i measured the case of said transistor to the bracket of the heatsink to check for shorts, there were none, but i decided to measure it again once i screwed the heatsink...

if the tech can do it in a way that looks good and works, i say go for it. its your unit and if it looks good to you thats all that matters on that end. as far as parting out dead units, ive done that before, infact ive done that to a 1080 before. i think i have a thread on that on here. some...