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I used a Rane AC22B active crossover for a while before I got a First Watt. Those can be had fairly cheap (I think I paid $125 on eBay).

People love them and for good reason. They certainly can rock the house. I owned a pair for several years, did all the improvements and tweaks I read on the Klipsch owners forum and other places on the web to make them sound good to me. New Crites Crossovers, reinforced corners (I had 2 good...

In the words of Keb Mo, "It was a high price to pay, You're gettin' more for your money today"

Here are mine. Altec 416 8A 16-ohm with the Heils on top. Altecs are active crossed and Heils are 1st order passive (IOW a cap in series)

Most single ended, class A amps with no global feedback will hum a bit, especially with the very sensitive speakers they are usually paired with. Think SE 45, 2A3, 300B amps. Most have hum pots to minimize the hum. Almost all SE 6L6, EL34 (pentode, etc., not triodes) amps will have GFB so are...

This thread in the DIY section may help, includes Deep Cleaning An Amplifier http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/diy-forum-repair-restoration-reference-threads.426532/

If you're not sure what you're doing then you shouldn't. Lots of places to get bit by Hi Voltage. There is almost certainly nothing wrong with the blue glow. I have a pair of Shuguang 2A3Cs that glow, and used to have Sovteks that glowed. Also the exposure/light of the photo will show more/less...

I use a Rane AC22B. The AC22B has a subsonic filter built in. When I first installed it I noticed a lot of missing bass. I bypassed the subsonic filter and the difference was immediately obvious. Not sure if yours has the subsonic filter but all the schematics/block diagrams are on the Rane site...

I would contact Great Plains Audio and ask them, maybe through eMail since you're not a customer. They rework all the Altec stuff. I just checked my 416s which are also 16 ohms and they measure 6.7 and 6.9 ohms, so there may be something going on with yours as to why they measure so far apart...

Cool thread, thanks to the OP for starting it. Some really nice tables here. The Well Tempered Lab Amadeus MKII (very similar to the GTA on pg. 3 of this thread) Some unusual features include poly sewing thread for a belt, a golf ball submerged in fluid for a tonearm bearing, no headshell...

Quicksilver, Rogue, Audio Note, Cary, Audio Research

You may prefer one over the other, but I can't see how anyone would claim they are the same.

Many people have a dedicated room in their homes to do nothing but watch TV. THAT'S what's strange.

Thanks for following up. I had the opposite problem and used label maker tape on the sub platter, then replaced the motor and all was well.

I run 416s in my DIY speakers. I have heard good things about Great Plains Audio, supposedly he has modern equivalent drivers http://www.greatplainsaudio.com/

I don't like grey poupon, but since I am an audiophile of course I routinely practice all 10. Here's #11: 11. If you go to a shop where there are audiophiles, if you don't have a megabuck system or if you don't have $20K cables they will treat you like you have the plague, or completely...

Just wondering why you (or anyone) would go through the trouble to do that.

Music is music, I don't do genres

When I did it on my P3 they were on special for $175. Now back to $225 but may be found cheaper, IDK. $225 is a lot to put into a Planer 3 (but so was $175 into a P3). http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RE24VMUK

I believe it would stick, it sticks to threads just fine. Worth a try anyway. Teflon tape is where I would start.

Yes, tape on the subplatter would slow it down (ask me how I know ;) ) I'm thinking trying plumber's Teflon tape on the pulley since it's thin and flexible. Just a thought.

As a couple of guys above pointed out, kits are available. But no so many because you're taking a pretty small market (people who give audio more than an afterthought) and segmenting it much smaller (people who give audio more than an afterthought AND people who can/want to build something)...

That's what it means to me. The High End means the expensive stuff. Not better, not worse, not necessarily worth the money, just expensive.

You are correct, sir :thmbsp:

Ah, perhaps you're correct. The way I did/do it is to put my Radio Shack db meter directly in front of the tweeter (since the tweeter level is fixed/maxed) and play a test tone well above the XO frequency. I do this with only the one channel of the CDP connected. Then I put the meter directly...