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Those look like quality Vifa drivers.

VPI makes a metal 3D printed tonearm.

I think I remember seeing ads for those in Stereophile in the early 90s. Low cost high end.

Pull that driver and examine the small silvery braided tensile leads that connect the terminals to the actual voicecoil. You may have one that is broken. As for the testing your buddy did, an open would be super high resistance like 1000000000000, not 0.1, so that test result is strange?

What is the plastic pc you are talking about?.....the inverted dustcap lip in the center of the bass drivers? Do this.....push on the bad bass driver gently with your hand..does it move smoothly or does feel like it is scraping on something? Have you measured the resistance of the bass driver...

Those probably have electrolytics, so replace those atleast on the tweeters with polypropylene caps and also replace the resistors on the tweeter section with Mills resistors available from Partsexpress. Line the cab walls with damping sheet material will also help. You might look at adding...

You have got some highend speakers there! Hales is out of business, so replacement drivers could be difficult to come by. There is a review of those on the Stereophile website w/ descriptions of the drivers. The drivers were mfg'd by vifa, LPG, and Audax (i think) but are not standard catalog...

Thanks all, very informative. But what type of paint did you use? I want to maintain the satin surface finish. Older Missions BTW...not vinyl.

Anyone refinished black ash veneered speakers? Do you strip the black paint finish to the base veneer and repaint? Or touchup?

The dull cable looks like it has a PVC jacket, and the pretty cable looks like it has a Polyethylene (PE) jacket. PVC does not like UV and corrodes copper over time quite readily. PE has pretty high UV resistance and is more inert than PVC.

Did find the source of the problem?

I would have guessed the flaky tweeters would have sounded brighter and ragged. Do both tweeter pairs share the same P/Ns? :scratch2:

I you are DIY savvy, then you could split the crossover in each speaker to the high pass and low pass sections and add a 2nd pair of connectors. Then connect the high pass to one pair of connectors and the lowpass to the other pair. One amp would be dedicated to the HP and the other to the LT...

Could be a gasket is failing in the tweeter assemly were it mounts to the woofer magnet.

The material flaking off if the damping material applied during manufacturing. It helps smooth out the the response of the tweeter. You should just brush it off.

Googled that speaker and found that it uses a rubber surround midbass. The grille seems to be just an elastic banded type and driver is attached with only 4 screws. You should remove that driver to inspect and see if there is any material inside the cabinet that could touch the cone....wire...

Sounds like a damaged voicecoil on the bass portion of that driver. Can you carefully push on the cone to slightly move it into the cabinet? Spread your fingers on the hand you are using to apply pressure at 4 or 5 points around the cone so it doesn't skew as it moves. It should move smoothly...

Double Nickels on the Dime - The Minutemen

Isolate the problem on the Cambridge by trying a different set of inputs with the CD player. And connect the tuner to the input in which you had the CD player connected. If the CD is OK and the tuner exhibits the same symptoms you have your answer. Cheers

I recently have auditioned KEF Q300 and Monitor Audio RX2. Both were very nice sounding.

You can ignore the shield or tie it to the ground on the RCA plugs along with one of the wires. Is one of the wires uninsulated?

That is not a problem. The power supply caps are discharging like batteries after you power down. Crank it up and i betcha the light goes out much quicker.

I have used Solens, Bennics, Daytons, and Claritycaps. The Claritycap SA are my favorite out of that group.

Optimus ?? Infinity RS9b HPM-100 Boston Acoustics A70 Boston Acoustic A100 ADS 570II B&W DM-550 Mission 772 *DIY SEAS Excel mag cone + SEAS softdome (I love these)

I think that you bought the amp and turntable from me recently. If you are that person, pop the top on that amp and look at the 4 diodes wired together and bolted to the U-shaped pc of metal. I wired together 4x FRED diodes to create a FRED bridge rectifier. You may be able to drop that into...