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If you’re running a MC cartridge you might prefer the CX-70 because of the more versatile MC input. The C-4 50 Ohms setting is a bit too low for some cartridges.

The CX-70 has a "CD Direct" switch with a dedicated small pcb equipped with Black Gate capacitors. They sacrificed the "Muting" switch for this. The MC phono section has three settings, 10, 100 and 1000 Ohms. Everything else is much like the C-60.

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/c-4-mc-amp-distortion-adjustment-workaround.914231/

Is there any output signal from the left channel?

Can you take out the upper cone for closer inspection? The lower bearing is less susceptible for damage due to it’s size. The wires do not interfere with lateral movenent?

There is a chance that the horizontal bearing just needs some adjustment. Remove the top cap and loosen the top bearing just a little bit until the tonearm moves freely. Of course, if the bearings are damaged this won’t help much...

Try a cleaner fluid for printer rollers.

Of course the information about the original parts was important. Thank you so much for your contribution. But, as these parts are not available any more I decided to take the trial and error path. The result counts, the machine is back to normal now.

In a previous ownership there must have been problems with the interruptors as one has increased the brightness of the LED’s by decreasing the value of R28 with another resistor soldered in parallel on top (I found this when I was recapping the unit). This obviously helped restoring the auto...

This is all not critical as long as the new LED is not overloaded and, secondly is not too bright. All modern LED‘s will be brighter than the old sad tired thing in the stock interrupter.

This is not a good argument, Nick. I had approximately 27 TT‘s in my life and amongst them all I enjoy the PX-2 most because of it’s super bass, smooth operation, speed stability and authentic presentation. It has all the good things from a CD player without sounding like a CD. Compris?

A owned a GT-750 for a while. A rather primitive big wooden box. You cannot compare the GT-750 with the PX-2 or PX-3.

The blue is 3V while the red LED is 2V. To be honest, I think that bending the legs so close to the plastic body damaged the LED, so that it went dark after a while. That this event was happening in the lead out groove after approximately 20 minutes might have been coincidental. Maybe oxygen...

Very interesting. Running out of red LED's, I put a blue LED in the last interrupter (right side of the C board, viewed from the back of the TT), and together with R28 = 1.3 kOhm this machine is working! In older threads I found some were struggling with a non functional auto-stop after their...

Rather small and narrow gap width.

Here it is... They are 14mm wide like the originals. No idea if they fit electrically.

The response time in a simple on/off application should not matter

Found this part: https://cook.shortest-route.com/e_rapidonline/re?l=AD4I948hcxI2z0x618IhITlobcgfebI93j77z&s=DLKMOHIIFDEGJJAG&req=%2FCatalogue%2FProduct%2F58-0944

Regarding possible replacement interrupters there is a lot of information here, most of it is semi wisdom (…could fit, maybe, but need modification of the circuit. But, which mod is not explained in detail). What a pity that Yamaha used such an exotic component.

Could try wired SMD LED.

Important question: Will bending the legs of a LED as close as possible to the plastic body damage it or make it susceptible for damage? There is no room for any protrusion.

Interesting thread. A short caused by the shutter touching the LED leads will destroy them. This I found out when I did my first PX-2. Since then I isolate them with electrical tape and carefully align the interrupters to avoid any contact with the metal shutter. A short is certainly not the...

I will replace the LL switch. I see that it has been „repaired“ with a plaster by a previous owner.

Thanks. The LED next to the Left Limit Switch is the one that gets fried. And, most important, it happens before the tonearm sled activates this switch. It seems to happen the Moment the circuit senses the higher pitch of the lead out groove. In fact, the LL switch is only activated if you send...

Replacing R28 by a 1.3kR (= approx. double the value) resistor did not protect the LED.