Started by checking voltage at the P700 pins - kinda close to spec (within ~10% mostly). (Ignore that picture above the chart ... that's for the Yamaha YP-D6 also on my bench that's also refusing to work properly )
Will go upstream and check H709-H712 next. While the unit is powered on, I've observed that the DBT is lit at a dim+ level, and also that DC offset at the speaker terminals (surprisingly) is pretty low (~5mV). The resistors aren't smoking any more, but there's still a slight burning plastic smell when it's on.
I bought an infrared thermometer off Amazon that'll get here Tues, and hopefully it'll work to measure each resistor's temperature and save me from sticking my fat fingers in there only get shocked and burned.
Also confirmed that the main caps are all wired correctly. There's been mention of a brown wire that passes through the chassis from P700 to the negative terminal of the main cap C006, but mine is black, and intact.
Will go upstream and check H709-H712 next. While the unit is powered on, I've observed that the DBT is lit at a dim+ level, and also that DC offset at the speaker terminals (surprisingly) is pretty low (~5mV). The resistors aren't smoking any more, but there's still a slight burning plastic smell when it's on.
I bought an infrared thermometer off Amazon that'll get here Tues, and hopefully it'll work to measure each resistor's temperature and save me from sticking my fat fingers in there only get shocked and burned.
Also confirmed that the main caps are all wired correctly. There's been mention of a brown wire that passes through the chassis from P700 to the negative terminal of the main cap C006, but mine is black, and intact.
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