80's Technics Integrated Amps

They're good, but quite a step down from the V8X in terms of beefiness. I don't know, but I am not much of a fan of the heat pipe design, even though it works fine.
My top favourites from their respective series are still the SU-V8, V9, V8X, V909.

An in my opinion more honourable mention is the SU-V6 (without the "X"), which is only slightly less impressive than the V8.
 
on the specs SU-V6X has more power than SU-V6 (70W vs 100W RMS); perhaps these specified output powers should be interpreted differently? Sorry if the question sounds dumb, I am still learning.
 
Firstly, power ratings are the least interesting information about any device. For amps, they're sometimes only a remote indicator, often a completely pointless number. Why's that? Many reasons, but it has to do with the myriads of ways output power can be measured (both channels simultaneously? Sine, square, sawtooth wave? 1kHz or 20Hz-20kHz? RMS? How long measured? What impedance/resistance across the outputs? What THD levels? Etc.). Also, some manufacturers actually cheat and calculate the "Peak Music Power Output" (PMPO), which is basically the max. rated power draw from the mains line multiplied by the telephone number of the company's boss plus the weight of his wife.

Technics was usually honest, sometimes actually ultra-conservative when it comes to the indicated power. For example, the mid-level SU-7700 delivered exactly 2x50W simultaneously (as indicated); the SE-A3 can do 2x320W (2x200W rated).
From this point of view, it could indeed mean that the V6X is stronger. However, forget power ratings, those 30W more mean an increase of less than 1.5dB. 70W are already enough with average-efficiency speakers. I just like the V6 more because it has a more thoughtfully laid out internal structure, bigger heatsinks and a bigger, potted transformer. You could just see in the V6X that they cut the cost, and this I don't like.
 
I wouldn't say so. Unlike V6 vs. V6X, the V8X is very similar inside compared to the V8. The latter is a bit higher-spec in that it has two transformers and a bit of a cleaner PCB design. It also looks mightier from the outside. However, as said they're still very similar brothers.
 
Considering the marantz, you should try the V4X - it is well capable and has a strong bottom end punch - I’ve had these running hard for hours on end without issue - I did make sure ventilation was not an issue..

I’d you’re in the EU/UK region, these surface at a reasonable price. The V4X really does deliver a good sound... the V8X is similar with more power (though in mine I replaced the Toshiba outputs with bigger SanKen devices)
 
Yeah that’s not bad for a silver one... if it’s the one w/ the owners manual was made 26th July 1984...
 
Well, it's alive! The SU-V96, (cheaper rack version of the SU-Z960 without cooling fan). I was able to track the dead channel in the preamp section to the volume/balance control chip. Put the new one in and it sounds pretty good! It was given to my son with the matching TT, tuner,EQ, CD player, and dual tape deck. He gave me the cassette deck and it works great. The rest of the stack will be used by my son as a bedroom system. A big thanks to @SVI2004A for his help. :thumbsup:
20180304_170914.jpg
 
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Sweet as... it’s not all that often for volume attenuator ICs to quit... but it does happen... - I have had to replace input selector ICs before... digital / cmos ICs can do all kind of weird things when on the fritz...

Hope he enjoys his amp for years to come
 
I'm just glad it was the volume control chip. I only had 20 legs to unsolder to replace it.
 
I just picked up this SU-G91 along with another Sony AX301 integrated the other day for $20. I haven't heard much about the g-series. Does anyone know how these stack-up? I know they were not the best, but were still New Class A and prior to their "AA" series. Sounds pretty good but only after some serious adjustment to the bass and treble knobs (see photo) to achieve "neutral" sound for me, thoughts?

I believe I tried to checking the bias voltage on it but found it was non-adjustable, still debating whether it's worth a recap, other perfomance mods, or just a flip.

Technics SU-G91.jpg
 
20180305_105856.jpg
This is my Technics SA-EX140 that I use as my garage stereo. I think I paid $10 bucks for it at a thrift shop. It says on it "class H". Anyone know what a class H amp design is?
 
Hey people,

New arrival here in the forums. Great thread, I found out a lot which I couldn't find out anywhere else.
I just bought my first proper living room stereo off ebay, can't wait till I get it and hook it all up. I've been out of touch for a good few years. Used to have a Technics VZ220 amp hooked up to my PC through my teens which was doing a great job. Later on I moved out and strayed off the path when I bought some kit off a friend at a bargain. Pair of active KRK Rokkit 5's and a Yamaha 12 channel mixer, add to that a couple of DJ turntables and a DJ mixer which I never really had the time to get into DJing and all that gear was fine when I was single but now is a bit ridiculous. In any case this was replaced this Christmas passed with an M-Audio DAC but the problem was I could not hook up a turntable to it without making a mess and buying a phono preamp. It seemed like it was either going to be a £10 preamp or something around £80 - £100 and beyond so I figured I might as well buy a whole amp and re-jig the whole setup. I decided I will move my KRKs with the DAC to my desk to exclusively run off the PC. As the KRKs are active and have 3 sets of inputs: XLR, TRS and RCA I was able to simultaneously plug in the PC and the TV and it serves as the living room set, however they don't have a phono input, hahaha, and like I said, I don't want DJ mixers any more or phono prestages laying around on my desk, since the DAC sits on my desk too and connects via some 7m cables with the speakers. Anyways I think you can see by now what kind of a mess I would be getting into...

Hence I thought damn the hacks and just get a stereo. I've been out of touch with things for so long that I didn't really know where to begin. Fortunately there wasn't much choice either, hahaha. My only requirement apart from the amp having to sound awesome and have a good phono stage was that it looks presentable in the living room and have VU metres - because I just love these! :D Like I said, there wasn't really much choice so I have an SU-Z1 coming my way, because it has VU meters, looks good and I can't listen to it on ebay. So I was hoping to find out what I actually bought and where it stands in the ranks, but even here I wasn't able to find out too much:

SVI2004A said:
The SU-V series was Technics full sized HiFi line that introduced new class A circuitry in 1978. Their other offering was the SU-Z series (Z1 and Z2)
Click to expand...

Really hoping to find out some more while I wait. To go with that amp I also found Tannoy Eclipse 1 at a bargain price. Turns out they recently went out of sale and I found the last lot of them half price on ebay, brand new, which is promising.
 
These were the entry point of its line... 2x25W - it is not a wall shaker (from what I know of uk houses with neighbors each side of the walls)

Based on STK2028... these setups do make good sound... as they’re Darlington power pack - it’s been a while since I’ve heard one.

I do remember phono sounding good on it... it had a SL-D2 turntable and SB-1950 speakers

If anything to look out for it’ll be dirty switch contacts and blown meter lamps

I’m sure some will have heard these a lot more recently...
 
Thank you for your reply SVI2004A.
I'm glad to read that the sound quality is alright. The one I'm getting was apparently serviced and had the meter lamps replaced. Physically looks to be in good condition too. You're right, the power is on the low side but I don't think it's going to be that big of an issue, mostly because of the size of the room and the size of the flat too. The KRKs are 45W each and I rarely crank them up high. I think that if I need a harder punch I can send the signal through the tape connectors into tape connectors on the secondary DAC on my PC and blast throught the KRKs and / or all fours, but we'll see about that later. First I want to spin some records. :D
 
I’m sure you’ll find it adequate for a flat... looked at the tannoys - 35w optimum - a Technics Z2 would be spot on - same amp with bigger power supply and STK2038
For 35w/ch

Once you hook it up... let us know what you think... spkrs and room acoustics certainly will have impact... placement will be a useful tool
 
Hey guys! Someone in my area is selling a SU-V26.
I can’t find any specs on this at all. I’m just trying to drive a pair of Polk S10 floor speakers in a very large room (mainly vinyl).
Also wondered what you thought a fair price would be on a relatively clean and working unit.

Thanks!
 
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