A Cable Thread That Doesn't Get Closed?

I want to experiment with different lengths to see how apparent the resistance effect may be.
Make sure you experiment with different speakers as well.

When I was building my speaker cables using silver cores in Teflon tubes I got them sounding really good on one set of speakers but when I swapped to another set they didn't work at all well. I had to double the number of cores (I. E. halve the resistance) to get it right.

Turned out the high resistance version was helping tame a slightly loose bass on one set of apeakers but throttling the bass on the other set.
 
For TT to pre there is a custom cable installed by Vinyl Nirvana so I can't say exactly what it is
Pre to Amp is Canare L-4E6S Balanced Audio from BJC
CDP to PRE Morrow Audio MA2
Amp to speakers Canare 4S11 Speaker Cable from BJC

Right now I'm thrilled with the way my system sounds. I have no plans to change anything.
 
El Cheapo RCA cables for components (red & white) and generic 16 gauge wire for speakers (the two-tone stuff). If the record player has them hard-wired and they go bad I may spring for something a little nicer to solder in, but maybe not. Depends on the deck.
 
I was going to make my own power cords, but I am finding that by the time I buy good copper connectors and decent wiring, the cost is almost right up there with buying a high quality cable which is already assembled.
Update--a couple of months ago I picked up a used PS Audio AC-5 power cable to go to the power conditioner. Looks impressive! Next step is to get more of the same or similar PS Audio power cables (used), or make my own, which ends up costing almost the same amount. I can make a better judgment call on the sound when I get everything rewired with the better power cables. With everything so busy in the summer, I won't get back to much in the way of indoor audio until later in August or once September rolls around.
 
My main system
Balanced and unbalanced interconnects are Nordost Blue Heaven.
Speaker cables are Nordost Red Dawn
Amp has a PS Audio power cord. The rest of the power cords are hospital grade cords.
USB is a Oyaide d+
Digital cable is Signal Cable

Secondary system has Kimber PBJ, 8tc and one Music Metre cable

HT (5.1) is Kimber VS4, PR4 and a mix of Straightwire and Monster. Stuff I've had laying about

Main tv (2.1) has a pair of monster and Straightwire and a Clear Day silver speaker cables.

I can not think of an instance where I've paid full retail. The Nordost, due to counterfeiting, I've only purchased from dealers. I find them to be clean. Not sure I'd buy any higher priced stuff unless I hit the lottery. Ha ha. We don't even have a lottery. So that's not gonna happend anytime soon.

Enjoy your system.
 
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I was going to make my own power cords, but I am finding that by the time I buy good copper connectors and decent wiring, the cost is almost right up there with buying a high quality cable which is already assembled.

I found that the same thing was happening when I made my own interconnects. It's nice to have exact lengths but the time investment and cost was sometimes even more than similar Blue Jeans or Triangle or Monoprice. Plus if I decided to move things around, all my best laid plans of super neat cabling went out the window. So now I troll the thrifts or just go with something from those three.
 
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Audioquest Forest & Evergreen cables ... small profile and lite weight.
 
I found that the same thing was happening when I made my own interconnects. It's nice to have exact lengths but the time investment and cost was sometimes even more than similar Blue Jeans or Triangle or Monoprice. Plus if I decided to move things around, all my best laid plans of super neat cabling went out the window. So now I troll the thrifts or just go with something from those three.
I enjoy making my current interconnects, since I miss the smell of rosin-core solder. :D

Beyond that, I look at it from a cost standpoint. I find a combination of plugs and cabling that I want in my interconnects, and it turns out to be less expensive to make my own to get exactly what I want. I do try to stick to standard lengths, however, so I can reuse them or even sell them off if I feel like it. I really like Cardas interconnects, but the pricing is way beyond what I would spend. But I can get a good portion of the way there by purchasing their cable in bulk, buying copper RCA plugs elsewhere, and rolling my own for far less.

For power cabling and good connectors based on the specs I'm looking for, it does not work out so well. That AC-5 power cord was used and cost only a little more than making my own. If I bought good all-copper power connectors, and good shielded power cable to my liking, then add some braiding and heat shrink to make it look good, the price gets up there a ways.

Aside from that, making cables keeps me occupied and otherwise out of trouble... ;)
 
I enjoy making my current interconnects, since I miss the smell of rosin-core solder. :D

Beyond that, I look at it from a cost standpoint. I find a combination of plugs and cabling that I want in my interconnects, and it turns out to be less expensive to make my own to get exactly what I want. I do try to stick to standard lengths, however, so I can reuse them or even sell them off if I feel like it. I really like Cardas interconnects, but the pricing is way beyond what I would spend. But I can get a good portion of the way there by purchasing their cable in bulk, buying copper RCA plugs elsewhere, and rolling my own for far less.

For power cabling and good connectors based on the specs I'm looking for, it does not work out so well. That AC-5 power cord was used and cost only a little more than making my own. If I bought good all-copper power connectors, and good shielded power cable to my liking, then add some braiding and heat shrink to make it look good, the price gets up there a ways.

Aside from that, making cables keeps me occupied and otherwise out of trouble... ;)

I neglected to mention that I suck suck suck at making cables. Yes... three sucks. I tried ot make a super low weight interconnect once out of magnet cable and spent hours trying to get it right then I would screw up the connector soldering, etc. The concept was sound, I thought; two hair thin conductors in a helix around a length of flexible aquarium tubing, covered by tech-wrap. After three tries I gave up! These were to be phono cables. Guess I will never know if I designed the next generation of "DNA PHONO CABLES" only $1,000 a meter! :)
 
I found an excellent value in interconnects on that auction site.

They're silver plated OFC, fully shielded, very flexible and thin. I love the TOTL Neutrik/Reen plugs with the super cool strain reliefs.

I have a 25' pair going from my pre-amp to my sub, and another pair coming back to my mono-blocked Parasounds. ($150 for 100')

The sound and image are magnificent.

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Those look like cables that "navships" on ebay sells. Perhaps not though. Either way, he has killer deals on surplus govt. wiring. Perfect for DIY.
 
In one system, Monster M1500 (CD to pre) and Straightwire Virtuoso R (pre to amp) with Monster M1 for the speakers sounds right to me.
The Straightwire was given to me and both Monsters purchased used for dirt cheap.
The better Monsters from a few decades ago are good cables and can be made better by carefully re-terminating. I've done this for myself and a few others.
Monster Interlink Reference 2 is a great cable at $5 to $15 used, got a bunch of it.
 
Nordost Blue Heaven and Red Dawn. I bought them used from a stereo salesman who I knew for quite some time. He was upgrading.
 
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