A semi idiot updates his dream amp; KA-8100

My Mouser order arrived today and I couldn’t resist having a crack at the power amp board after the kids went to bed.

First up was to attempt my blue wire repair. I kicked it off my separating the posts as they’d been pushed together (I assume to stop them unwinding accidentally). I’d drilled out my wire twisting tool to make sure it went over the post and I have to say I’m very pleased with how it’s panned out:

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One on the left is the repair. Posts bent back in place afterwards:

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You’d struggle to notice the repair:

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Repair complete I set about refurbishing the power amp board. All very simple as I went about replacing 1 cap at a time. It’s amazing how much smaller the new ones are. Then I came to the relay. I was familiar with what to do as I did it on my 7100 refurb too. Trim off the rear legs and solder it in:

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Next up I pulled the trimmers, checking the resistance on the meter so I could dial them in as much as possible before I put them in the amp. Easy drop in replacement except for the bias adjusters which require an extension on the middle leg. Easily done with the same wire I used to repair the cut wire:

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Transistors next and I wasn’t sure which leg was which, so I used the schematic on Mouser to find out. Luckily the board had each leg screen printed on it:

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At this point I’d done all of the consumables except for the main filter caps (I’ll do them later), this involves electrolytic caps, a few of the transistors and diodes:

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I like to have all my parts neatly placed on the board, straight, aligned and neat:

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Finally I had a crack at doing some of the TO-3’s, the compound is super sticky but I managed to get a thin layer on each Mica. I also cleaned all the connectors to make sure it had a good connection. No idea how you tell if it’s done properly but it certainly looks the part. Before:

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After:

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The pile of stuff removed so far:

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Amp fired up beautifully on the DBT so I set about sorting the speaker DC and bias. The thing I love about the multi turn trimmers is that it’s so easy to dial the settings perfectly!

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I haven’t run the amp for long yet, so I’ll need to let it properly warm up before I set the trimmers properly.
 
This is awesome.

Also: Fancy seeing you here, lay off this audio nonsense and finish your 400F :D
-Sonic from DTT

Hahaha. Yep, it’s all this that’s kept me away from the bike to be honest. Only room for 1 project at a time. Not much more to do on the audio front (just this, a DSP and some cables really). Did make a cardboard seat the other day though :eek:
 
@gort69 how did you remove the transformer side TO-3’s, did you unbolt the transformers and move them or is there a way to move th
 
I used a 1/4" ratcheting box-end wrench with a short phillips bit, holding pressure on the bit with an index finger and operating the ratchet wrench with the other hand.Comes in handy for a lot of tough to get fasteners when working on these things.

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I used a 1/4" ratcheting box-end wrench with a short phillips bit, holding pressure on the bit with an index finger and operating the ratchet wrench with the other hand.Comes in handy for a lot of tough to get fasteners when working on these things.

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Ahhhhh, very clever! I have small ratchet spanner's and Philips bits, good idea will do that instead, much simpler than trying to move stuff.

Also what did you do about soldering in the main filter caps? I bought the same ones as you (Chem Con?) with a stub for soldering. I'm going to space mine up a little so they fit properly in the brace, would using my 18ga hookup wire work to extend the legs? That way I don't need to drill holes in the board either.
 
I got my UMIK-1 mic today and so had a quick play, testing my setup (mains, subs and both). Interesting as I put the amp back in the cabinet because I notice a lot less transformer hum. Not sure why that might be, but its a pleasant side effect of the work so far!
 
Annoyingly I’ve also buttoned up the amp without tightening up the source selector plastic connector that links to the switch on the rear board!

Vinyl it is then for the short term o_O
 
Got stuck in to the preamp and control boards tonight.

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All went well and I have them all done essentially. However there are a couple of hiccups.

1. The transistors on the control board have a slightly lifted trace on one of the legs. Continuity is there to adjoining parts and the other legs mean the trace is solid, but it’s annoying none the less. I’m not planning a repair as it’s solid and holding.
2. I’ve gotten a few caps wrong on my mouser order and so I haven’t been able to finish off either board :(

I incorrectly listed Cd3 and Cd4 as 100uf 6.3v when it’s actually 1000uf 6.3v and I don’t have anything even close to that to put in its place.

I’m also short one 10uf 50v UKL and one WIMA Film 1uf 50v.

Other than that it’s all done with the exception of redoing the 2 TO-3 behind the transformers and also replacing the main filter caps and making the spacers.

Not sure there is a source of the 4 caps I need locally unfortunately so I’ll probably have to stump up the shipping from Mouser :(
 


This guy has a really big selection, and offers various lengths and colors. No affiliation, just has been a good source for me:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/200-Feet-20-Awg-Silver-Plated-Solid-Core-Teflon-Copper-wire-25ft-ea-8-Colors/173055926563?
hash=item284aefe123:g:OdIAAOSwrRlZpG0a

Thanks, guys. I ended up getting some “silver plate” wire from the last link for my stash. :thumbsup:
 
So what a mess around tonight! My miniDSP arrived today so I was really keen to button up the amp (even though I still have 8 caps and 2 micas to do), but I was really keen to load my EQ's and see what the change was :)

That's where things went a bit left field...

No sound! Fiddled with all the knobs and buttons. Nothing! I could get static from the volume knob (that I need to deoxit a bit more before I button it back up for good), so it was delivering something to the speakers, but I couldn't get any sound from my laptop, turntable or SONOS.

Eventually I twigged that I needed to setup the miniDSP before I put it in between the preamp and power amp jumpers... so I duly set about unplugging it because I still need a plugin to setup the DSP... bugger. EQ maps will have to wait another day.

So I proceeded to plug it all back together as before. Another problem! I wasn't getting any sound from the left speaker... balls!

I tried the turntable and that was working fine... so it looked like a problem on SONOS only. Swapped the cables and the problem moved to the turntable... Hmmmm, looks like its the cable. DMM out and it checked out fine. Plugged it back in, still no left channel. Swapped the cable and problem went away!

Might have to cut and resolder the plugs on that one then!

So now I have a fully working amp and no DSP. So whats a man to do?

I know, I'll test the recapped amp to see if there's any difference! I deliberately took a reading before I recapped the amp and left the setup in place so I could do another one when it went back in the rack. I'm not claiming this is scientific but the readings are interesting.

Unfortunately I couldn't get the volume exactly the same, but apparently this doesn't change much other than the decibels.

Heres the 2 sweeps. Top is the original, bottom is the latest one:

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Its not a night and day difference but it certainly looks to have minor changes below 200Hz with a smoother dropoff at 60Hz and less roll off at the low end below 30Hz.

Will be interesting to see what difference the filter caps make... if any.
 
So I’m claiming I’ve successfully recapped my second amp. Today my last parts came in from Mouser and tonight I set about soldering them in and also had a crack at the filter caps.

I won’t bore people with 4 caps but I thought I’d sho how I replaced the main filter caps. The replacements were shorter than the originals and I wanted to retain the same height so it looked standard at a glance and also I could then reuse the original cap brace.

Step 1 was to whip up some stays on the lathe from 40mm PVC pipe caps. I turned down the ends so they were open but with a lip so they would sit flush on the board:

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2 sides had to be sanded back on the bench sander so they sat flush to each other:

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Next up I attached some of the solid core wire to the caps to extend the legs:

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Lastly it was all tied together with some 40mm heatshrink:

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Installed and the brace was put in before I finished by soldering them in:

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The amp is essentially finished but I don’t have a solution to get the two transistors out on the transformer side. I added some anti vibration feet to the amp as a final touch as I find it almost completely stops the noise from the transformers (I did it on my 7100 too and it worked perfectly).

Sitting back and enjoying some Dire Straits to reward myself for the work:

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Lastly I’d like to use a switched outlet on the amp for the power for a miniDSP. What sort of plug do the switches outlets use on the back. And do I need to worry about polarity with a wall wart as the sockets don’t look directional?
 
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