AD797 Phono Stage Build and Help Desk Thread

I can't wait to build one of these, I guess I sit on the edge of my chair 'til the next batch of boards is done. The MC stage in my preamp is decent, but it has some background hiss at moderate listening levels... :no:
 
Now a question about batteries. I have two black sealed 12V batteries like the ones in HT's photo. In the instructions for the charger, it said that these types of batteries run 12.75 or so volts when full, and only go down to 11.5-ish when "empty." I guess I'm wondering when I should charge them again. When they get down to 12.0V, or what? After a week of lots of play time, the batteries are still 12.72/12.65. Any thoughts?

Your figures are correct. I haven't done a real-world study of these, but it appears that you should get 40-45 hours of use before recharge (with the 5ah batts). I charge mine once a month if needed, or if I forget to turn the preamp off before bed a couple of times. :nono:
A multi-stage charger will give you more cycles, not sure what the cheap chargers discussed do?
 
Just want to check in and say again how excellent this phono stage is! I have never had a phono stage that is CD-quiet the way this is -- certainly never a LOMC stage. Several times I have turned up the volume and thought that it wasn't turned on. Soundstage is wall to wall, imaging is pinpoint precise and rock solid, detail is out of this world. This thing is the bee's knees. If you haven't built yours yet -- get on it!

Now a question about batteries. I have two black sealed 12V batteries like the ones in HT's photo. In the instructions for the charger, it said that these types of batteries run 12.75 or so volts when full, and only go down to 11.5-ish when "empty." I guess I'm wondering when I should charge them again. When they get down to 12.0V, or what? After a week of lots of play time, the batteries are still 12.72/12.65. Any thoughts?

Thanks for the kinds words, I literally jumped off my seat when I first heard it working properly, I would have been happy for it to be equal or just nudge out the HTMCPS but it beats it easily.

I would charge them once a month at least, just to be sure, with heavy usage probably every two weeks.

37.5ma is the current draw so for 5ah batteries it's not a lot.

I have been checking mine and they were 12.75 when I got them and 12.65 now so they are not like the dry cells where the voltage goes way down.
 
Mine are the 5ah batteries -- cost $5 each on Amazon, $20 to ship them...I bought the multi-stage charger ($25) after reading about the bad things the "non-intelligent" chargers might do. Also, after melting the wires on my HTMCPS when I hooked the batteries up wrong and shorted them, I am paranoid about fires etc and wanted the safest charger I could get.
 
Has anyone tried other output caps?

I did a comparison between the Panasonic's and the Wima's listed in the BOM.

The difference is huge, the Panasonic's have a syrupy midrange with more pronounced bass and a slightly rolled off top end. They remind me of when I tried out Grado carts a while back, warm and lush. You can always open up the top end by adding a similar 0.1uf cap in parallel.

The Wima's have more detail and are more even top to bottom, bass is not as pronounced as the Panasonic's, they are probably more accurate and they allow you to see into the music more. In direct comparison the Wima's sound thin but it's more a case of the Panasonic's lushness making them sound that way.

If you like a more tube like sound, have a bright cart or system the Panasonic's are definitely are a viable option.
 
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Has anyone tried other output caps?

I did a comparison between the Panasonic's and the Wima's listed in the BOM.

The difference is huge, the Panasonic's have a syrupy midrange with more pronounced bass and a slightly rolled off top end. They remind me of when I tried out Grado carts a while back, warm and lush. You can always open up the top end by adding a similar 0.1uf cap in parallel.

The Wima's have more detail and are more even top to bottom, bass is not as pronounced as the Panasonic's, they are probably more accurate and they allow you to see into the music more. In direct comparison the Wima's sound thin but it's more a case of the Panasonic's lushness making them sound that way.

If you like a more tube like sound, have a bright cart or system the Panasonic's are definitely are a viable option.
I suggest everyone to try Russion PETP K73-16 caps.Tey are inexpensive and will outperform most of the exotic caps.They are available here http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-2uF-63V-P...642?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d3011027a
I have no affiliation with the seller just a happy customer.I have suggested these caps to few members and they all have found vast improvement over Wima's or Panasonic.There is a good read here abut these caps http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/143675-petp-capacitors-one-best.html

Regards,
Sachin
 
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Hi,
I just found PETPs on this site http://www.sovtube.com/en/17-petp
I don't have any experience with this seller,just found this source while google.
Edit: They are little bigger in size,so anything above 63V would be difficult to fit on PCBs.

Regards,
Sachin
 
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Regarding the cheap 24v charger discussed earlier, an AK member just told me he had his 5Ah batts on his until they got warm and made a hissing sound! He measured over 13 volts on the batteries! This is bad news for them folks!
Be very careful with these chargers and monitor the charge level carefully!
 
Regarding the cheap 24v charger discussed earlier, an AK member just told me he had his 5Ah batts on his until they got warm and made a hissing sound! He measured over 13 volts on the batteries! This is bad news for them folks!
Be very careful with these chargers and monitor the charge level carefully!

I was very tempted to get the cheap charger, as it was only about $5 compared to $25 for the multi-stage, protected version. But after reading some things like this (and worse!), I decided $20 more was worthy insurance against burning my house down...
 
When I got mine I tried it with the batteries new and it went from red charging to green charged in less than a minute.

On the weekend I tried charging them again and had a red light for about 2 hours then went to green for fully charged, I then checked the voltages and they were both 12.9volts each.

The batteries never got warm, I got this one and it has many good reviews:

http://www.amazon.com/Betterstuff-L...Charger+For+eZip+4.0+400+500+750+900+Mountain

That being said, you can't be too careful and as Jim said you should closely monitor any charging.
 
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Regarding the cheap 24v charger discussed earlier, an AK member just told me he had his 5Ah batts on his until they got warm and made a hissing sound! He measured over 13 volts on the batteries! This is bad news for them folks!
Be very careful with these chargers and monitor the charge level carefully!

I suspect this is a high-rate 'fast' automatic charger, a series resistor would be a good idea with small batteries, one sufficient to limit initial charging current to within the upper limit of the batteries being used as I am trying now. I have used selected incandescent series current limiting lamps as dynamic charging ballasts thus in the past to prevent overloading the chargers or batteries beyond rating limit. Ideally you would want a lamp rated for the voltage of the charger and wattage calculated for the max initial rating of the battery being charged. Once the charged bucking voltage of the batteries come up toward the max output of the charger the lamp will dim until the end-charge is reached.
 
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Is there a suggested properly sized case for this project? I thought I'd ordered it but what arrived from Context Engineering was plainly too small and otherwise inappropriate.
 
Is there a suggested properly sized case for this project? I thought I'd ordered it but what arrived from Context Engineering was plainly too small and otherwise inappropriate.

Steve I have used both the 4006 which is 4" wide, 1.5" high and 6" long and the 4012 when I couldn't get the 4006 which is 4" wide, 2.5" high and 6" long.

The PCB won't slide into the side slots of either, I don't like that idea at all, I use standoffs, if you use the 4006 with the Wima output caps you need standoffs that are no more than 8mm or the caps are too tall.

Here is a link to Context Engineering, you can see all the dimensions of their enclosures.

http://contextengineering.com/split_body_enclosures.html

Here is a pic of Jim Reeves enclosure which is the 4006:

pre3.jpg
 
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I wish I had a Fry's nearby......

I've had to order all my cases online and I've found the Hammond 1455N to work quite well. 4.6" wide, 2.1" tall, 6.3" long. Gives you a bit more breathing room over the 4006 but the tradeoff is that it's not a split enclosure, rather it requires the top to be slid into tracks/grooves, then the front/back get screwed on. Makes changing opamps, etc. a bit more work but I tend to build my project and stop fiddling (as I tend to break things if I fiddle too much).

(No Affiliation)

http://www.amazon.com/1455N-Silver-...=1361979283&sr=8-6&keywords=hammond+enclosure
 
I wish I had a Fry's nearby......

I've had to order all my cases online and I've found the Hammond 1455N to work quite well. 4.6" wide, 2.1" tall, 6.3" long. Gives you a bit more breathing room over the 4006 but the tradeoff is that it's not a split enclosure, rather it requires the top to be slid into tracks/grooves, then the front/back get screwed on. Makes changing opamps, etc. a bit more work but I tend to build my project and stop fiddling (as I tend to break things if I fiddle too much).

(No Affiliation)

http://www.amazon.com/1455N-Silver-...=1361979283&sr=8-6&keywords=hammond+enclosure

I have used same for CNC Phono.

Regards,
Sachin
 
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