It is up to the buyer to determine the value of what he is going to purchase but with all the info in this thread it appears the consensus is these are trash that should be avoided. Where is the AK spirit of getting something and putting it back right, you know like Glenn, @GD70 does?
I'm happy to report that the AK spirit is alive and well. I waited until the end of the week and since the ad was still up, I figured that the OP had passed on them so I decided to contact the seller. I went to look at them this morning and they were as described with only two woofers working. According to the seller, they disconnected the bad woofers, taped the connections and reinstalled one bad woofer in each of the cabinets. Apparently, nothing else was done. So, I decided to take them.Where is the AK spirit of getting something and putting it back right, you know like Glenn, @GD70 does?
I'm happy to report that the AK spirit is alive and well. I waited until the end of the week and since the ad was still up, I figured that the OP had passed on them so I decided to contact the seller. I went to look at them this morning and they were as described with only two woofers working. According to the seller, they disconnected the bad woofers, taped the connections and reinstalled one bad woofer in each of the cabinets. Apparently, nothing else was done. So, I decided to take them.
As soon as I got home, I pulled the "bad" woofers. The first one clearly had a fried voice coil. It had a crunchy feeling when the cone was depressed and the DCR measured 0.8 ohms. I expected the same on the second woofer but it's cone moved smoothly when depressed and the DCR measured 5.2 ohms. Surprised by this result, I took the apparently good woofer and installed it into the cabinet. I checked the DCR at the speaker terminals and it was just under 4 ohms. I then connected up to a receiver and both woofers functioned just fine. So, it looks like I will only need one woofer. There were no part number stickers attached but I understand that I will need a 206-0317. Hopefully someone can confirm that. I expect that between BT and eBay, I should be able to come up with a replacement without too much difficulty.
I originally planned to do a light refinishing but the cabs are really in decent condition so I may only hit them with some Howards RAF as well as Feed-n-wax. The grills have a few snags but nothing too terrible. I'll likely replace the fabric at some point.
Les.
Thank you.The million dollar question though is did you pay the $200 asking price which was the crux of this thread?
Congrats on the pickup and I wish you nothing but success! Another fully working pair of ADS in the world can only be a good thing.
I paid $200 (roughly $160 USD).
I did use US$ and CAD in my discussion.Oh my, I wonder if anyone else was thinking in US dollars instead of Canadian. I confess I missed tha nuance.
Did you check the crossovers for anything sort burned up or anything?
That depends. If the customer was pushing for a cheap fix he may have put dummy loads in place of the two speakers. I do agree that you have to not only consider the woofers but also the cost of a full recap.This is where I would be too. You have no way of knowing the general competence of the tech involved.
That they connected one woofer in each indicates they trend towards the hack side of competence.
Changing the single lytic is cheap and the additional three poly caps ain't much more.the cost of a full recap.
Changing the single lytic is cheap and the additional three poly caps ain't much more.
100uF, 4.7, 6.8 and 10µF polycaps.
yes, probably, those are values from a doc floating around the web, not me investigating the owner's pair of speakers.There were crossover revisions, and those values may be off a bit. Best to look at the actual crossover.
yes, probably, those are values from a doc floating around the web, not me investigating the owner's pair of speakers.
Maybe someone that can figure it out can tell us what a change from 100 to 90 or vice versa would do to the frequencies a driver gets when that cap is across the woofer terminals as on the ADS. I doubt it would be much of a change at all.