Air cooled Volkswagen appreciation thread

but about the bolt, unless you can get a very straight shot at it, I would not attempt to drill that in place. Pulling the motor isn't that bad, though I do believe you've got some extra plumbing off the oil pump that needs to get unhooked. With a good high lift jack you can get the motor out solo in under an hour. I had a weenie little jack that required a bunch of iterations of blocking the car, blocking the jack, blocking the car again, etc until I could get enough space underneath to drop the motor. The motor came out and in the same way. Dealing with the blocks and the jack took longer than the entire rest of the process.

Yeah you're right-- after mulling it over, there is other stuff I've been meaning to do for awhile now anyway like clean up the engine, replace the tarboard in the engine bay, etc... so I just decided to go ahead and pull the engine today:

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What the autostick engine bay looks like without the engine (note the torque converter resting in the bell housing):

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It sure will make it WAAAAAAYYYY easier to get that bolt out of the flex plate too:

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I got my high school job as a lot boy at George Chevrolet because my predecessor was joy riding a 914-6 and stuffed it under a truck. The spare hitting the rear end saved his life.
 
I got my high school job as a lot boy at George Chevrolet because my predecessor was joy riding a 914-6 and stuffed it under a truck. The spare hitting the rear end saved his life.

My freshman year in college one of the upperclassmen had a 914. There were card key gates all over campus to control traffic flow and force you to use one road in & out if you were a student. He'd drive right up to them, reach out his window, and push the gate up. There was always a few inches of play in the mechanism and just enough so he could sneak underneath them. The roof is so short he'd just hold the gate until it cleared. That always cracked me up, they are low.
 
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Do only air cooled engines qualify? My R Line has exceptional air cooling all the way up to 135 when the governor kicks in. ;)
 
It sure will make it WAAAAAAYYYY easier to get that bolt out of the flex plate too:

What does the starter drive on? I don't see any teeth in there. Unless this is a shot of the flexplate mounted on the trans? Never worked on an autostick.
 
What does the starter drive on? I don't see any teeth in there. Unless this is a shot of the flexplate mounted on the trans? Never worked on an autostick.

That thing with the bolt stuck in it is the flexible drive plate mounted to the crankshaft (in place of the flywheel.) it bolts to the torque converter via those 4 threaded holes around the edge, then the torque converter has the starter ring on it.

One more thing about that setup- the autostick starter has more torque and is self-supporting meaning it doesn't use the starter bushing that the 4 speed flywheel setup uses. It's just bolt and go. For this reason lots of folks use an autostick starter with their 4 speeds, works just fine. Will only work with the 200mm flywheels on the later 12 volt system though, flywheels for earlier 6v were different size.(180mm) and fewer number of teeth.
 
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That thing with the bolt stuck in it is the flexible drive plate mounted to the crankshaft (in place of the flywheel.) it bolts to the torque converter via those 4 threaded holes around the edge, then the torque converter has the starter ring on it.

One more thing about that setup- the autostick starter has more torque and is self-supporting meaning it doesn't use the starter bushing that the 4 speed flywheel setup uses. It's just bolt and go. For this reason lots of folks use an autostick starter with their 4 speeds, works just fine. Will only work with the 200mm flywheels on the later 12 volt system though, flywheels for earlier 6v were different size.(180mm) and fewer number of teeth.

Ah, ok. I remember the bushing thing.
 
Here's my Bug from Gran Turismo 4. It's a 1949 split window with all the upgrades, power is a whopping 81hp with a shot of nitrous as well. I used to drive around in this game, taking pictures or just doing races and watching the replays of this old thing up against newer cars. I wish I knew about modifications to the GT4 game engine, somehow there is a way to just give any car the same specs as another car. I think you have to boot from a burned copy of the game or something. I always wanted to build a car just like this, even down to the wheels. I wonder if they were a real design or just something created for the game?

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Hey Lee, I was by your place just yesterday, looks like your neighbor across the intersection has two of them parked outside.

You should have stopped in. Yeah, I've seen that guy on the corner, one of those Bugs looks like it's being put back together after paint. The question is, if those are outside the garage, what's INSIDE the garage?

Lee.
 
If its like most people, its probably full of lawn mowers and other mostly-worthless junk :)

I would have stopped but I was looking to get home so I could get some work done on the car. I was having one of those rare productive weekends.
 
If its like most people, its probably full of lawn mowers and other mostly-worthless junk :)

This totally kills me, too. I always used my garage like a religion, to keep my cars immaculate. Now I've moved to the only house on my new street with no garage, and I'm going to have to sell my cars because it kills me to leave them outdoors, even under double covers. Everyone else leaves their vehicles outdoors and fills their garages up with junk. I got a quote for $42K to add one on to my house. Can't justify it, sadly.
 
My garage has some non-vehicle stuff in it, but the vast bulk is 3 cars and a boat. The other stuff is allowed to use the edges but I don't let it intrude on the car parking. Thats actually part of why I keep the cars inside, I know if I left that big of a hole open it would fill with other junk.
 
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