ARXA Restoration, where to start?

Carbon13

Active Member
Just obtained this ARXA. Looks rough but motor is running well and quiet. I'm pretty handy with woodworking so a new or refinished plinth will be coming. The top plate will be stripped down and repainted.

Wondering about other mods to arm and suspension? Any guides or advice would be welcome.

Thx!
 

Attachments

  • 20181102_134800.jpg
    20181102_134800.jpg
    85.9 KB · Views: 156
Oh drool!! That's beautiful! Great inspiration...

I've PM'd Marc but haven't heard back, I'm hoping he'll see this thread and chime in. I could use the guru's guidance!
 
All new Delrin bushings, bearings. Bearing wells spotless. Polish all spindles, dampen top plate.
 
Also possible to dampen the plinth with automotive dampening sheets or antiphon and use a good quality bearing oil. The tonearm could use some metal polish as could the counterweight. If you are going stock, new head shells are available on eBay. The sub chassis rings like a bell. Dampen it and use lead foil on the outside of spindle well and edges. There is an old Audio Amateur article on the AR XA. A new plinth is easy to build, and it is possible to modify the T sub chassis to take other arms using plastic or by welding in a mounting bracket. There were a couple of modifiers in the 1980s who did this. See a 1981 Absolute Sound article. A Rega arm can then fit. Grace vintage tonearms may be better due to weight. The stock dustcover will not fit after tonearm replacement. New springs are also in order after heavy mods. The stock unit has a primitive charm and performance that is not easily surpassed without much $, blood, toil, tears, and sweat. It is amazing how much we expend in these to get that next 1.087% in performance. I write this now from experience.
 
Also possible to dampen the plinth with automotive dampening sheets or antiphon and use a good quality bearing oil. The tonearm could use some metal polish as could the counterweight. If you are going stock, new head shells are available on eBay. The sub chassis rings like a bell. Dampen it and use lead foil on the outside of spindle well and edges. There is an old Audio Amateur article on the AR XA. A new plinth is easy to build, and it is possible to modify the T sub chassis to take other arms using plastic or by welding in a mounting bracket. There were a couple of modifiers in the 1980s who did this. See a 1981 Absolute Sound article. A Rega arm can then fit. Grace vintage tonearms may be better due to weight. The stock dustcover will not fit after tonearm replacement. New springs are also in order after heavy mods. The stock unit has a primitive charm and performance that is not easily surpassed without much $, blood, toil, tears, and sweat. It is amazing how much we expend in these to get that next 1.087% in performance. I write this now from experience.


What causes the subchassis to ring like a bell? nothing bangs on it during play. How does adding lead to the outside of it stop sound from traveling longitudinally through it? How does one then account for that added mass when applied to the stock spring rate?
 
Oh drool!! That's beautiful! Great inspiration...

I've PM'd Marc but haven't heard back, I'm hoping he'll see this thread and chime in. I could use the guru's guidance!
All of them need the subchassis serviced along with the subplatter spindle refinished, as there was a poor finish from the factory, and there will be a wear pattern on the thrust ball end. the thrust plate will have this same wear pattern, and it will be dished and deformed. The foam that remains at the top of the main well needs removed, the parts of that that is missing is somewhat embedded in the lead bearing well sleeve. it needs floated out and that well surface refinished without removing the lead babbitt. often times the subchassis needs straightened. The sub platter often times needs re balanced. The original springs are glued to the subchassis. that needs to go. the lower rubber spring grommets will show an off-center pattern due to spring spine, that needs corrected The arm design is neutral balance type, however the vertical bearing, if you can call it that is poor. Once rebuilt properly the arm will perform quite well. It can be modified to the "SME" type H/S mounting to allow any type of cartridge to be used, and any alignment chosen, original is overhang only that was rec'd at 15mm, not many of today's carts will allow the arm to be adjusted that far in. 16.5mm is better setting. Depending on which motor this has, the haydon motor can be made quiet(er), the premotec motor, nothing can be done about it and it will always be intrusive into the music. The pulley needs the surface cleaned, replacement belts can't be any wider that .140"
Stock rate suspension springs do not support 180-200gr vinyl, nor will they support a heavy platter mat. The original was open cell foam that weighed virtually nothing.
 
A subchassis should be dead and neutral, not prone to delivery of energy to other parts (spindle rotation to tonearm). Tap it with a small hammer and listen. Look up George Merrill's mods which use some mix of acrylic and lead for a new subchassis. Using dampening materials on the stock subchassis does not add a great deal of weight. The lead is lead foil very thin which is also not very heavy for the amount used. Cork sheets (very thin) have also been used on the AR and other suspended turntables. The biggest added mass is tonearm replacement. That does stress the stock springs.
 
Hi Marc, glad you chimed in! I will see if I can figure out which motor I have. Given your detailed information, I think I will definitely need some assistance along the way!

I've read John's weather website that documented his refurb and that seems helpful. Curious what you think about his guide and where you would differ? Thx for your help!
 
A subchassis should be dead and neutral, not prone to delivery of energy to other parts (spindle rotation to tonearm). Tap it with a small hammer and listen. Look up George Merrill's mods which use some mix of acrylic and lead for a new subchassis. Using dampening materials on the stock subchassis does not add a great deal of weight. The lead is lead foil very thin which is also not very heavy for the amount used. Cork sheets (very thin) have also been used on the AR and other suspended turntables. The biggest added mass is tonearm replacement. That does stress the stock springs.
Again, I ask...................what bangs on it during play?...........................how does adding material to the outside of metal prevent sound traveling longitudinally through it? I'll answer both questions
nothing bangs it during play..........and adding material to the surface of metal does not stop sound from traveling longitudinally through the metal.
 
A subchassis should be dead and neutral, not prone to delivery of energy to other parts (spindle rotation to tonearm). Tap it with a small hammer and listen. Look up George Merrill's mods which use some mix of acrylic and lead for a new subchassis. Using dampening materials on the stock subchassis does not add a great deal of weight. The lead is lead foil very thin which is also not very heavy for the amount used. Cork sheets (very thin) have also been used on the AR and other suspended turntables. The biggest added mass is tonearm replacement. That does stress the stock springs.
There are lots of ideas out there on dampening things. With that said, when it comes to AR turntables, Marc is the Jedi Master. My XA can hang with my reference Music Hall 9.1 with the 9.3 motor upgrade. I don’t know of many people out there that can do that with the AR table, except for Mark. IMHO.
 
"Rings like a bell" is one of the terms used in the Audio Amateur article on modification of the AR XA or XB; also the use of dampening materials comes from AA.
Going from ring to bang is a big leap in semantics and engineering.
This is a link to an interview with Merrill.
https://vinylnirvana.com/merrill-turntables-mods/an-interview-with-george-merrill-september-2005
Note the use of terms like tonearm release energy and energy dissipation.
The writer of the AA article is not a mechanical engineer and neither is George Merrill.
Nor am I an engineer.
Your comments show deep knowledge.
Is all this chassis dampening bad engineering? False Audio Tweak-o Stuff?
 
Hi Marc, glad you chimed in! I will see if I can figure out which motor I have. Given your detailed information, I think I will definitely need some assistance along the way!

I've read John's weather website that documented his refurb and that seems helpful. Curious what you think about his guide and where you would differ? Thx for your help!
"Rings like a bell" is one of the terms used in the Audio Amateur article on modification of the AR XA or XB; also the use of dampening materials comes from AA.
Going from ring to bang is a big leap in semantics and engineering.
This is a link to an interview with Merrill.
https://vinylnirvana.com/merrill-turntables-mods/an-interview-with-george-merrill-september-2005
Note the use of terms like tonearm release energy and energy dissipation.
The writer of the AA article is not a mechanical engineer and neither is George Merrill.
Nor am I an engineer.
Your comments show deep knowledge.
Is all this chassis dampening bad engineering? False Audio Tweak-o Stuff?

1st up, i'm a retired mechanical engineer, I have a pretty good understanding of the physics involved in vibrations, their modes, their reflections from mixed boundaries. The "noise" in the subchassis comes from two main sources. The main bearing well, and the suspension springs. Main bearing well noise is friction of the spindle, and motor induced noise into the belt. The noise from the springs comes from energy into the top plate from the motor into the suspension studs, up the springs and into the subchassis. The damping you mention only can control acoustic energy emitted from the surface of the metal, adding material to the metal cannot stop, as noted, longitudinal energy. As many TT manufacturers have found, the energy(frequency) at main well should be exactly the same at arm mounting. The upper Rega tables have what looks like a subchassis embedded into the base to get this energy(frequency) as close as possible. Linn has had multiple subchassis changes to get that energy (frequency) as close as possible. adding goopucky, cork, lead, etc to the subchassis does not affect that longitudinal energy.
 
Listen to Marc, he knows these tables intimately...

Better still, box it up and hire Marc to trick it out for you. It will be one of the best investments you can make, and won't cost you an arm and a leg.

I sold a beautiful TD-124/Jelco combo in a custom plinth because my Marc Morin-ized AR-TX clearly outperformed it. I was sad to see it go, but it sure was nice pocketing all that dough and ending up with a superior turntable!
 
Better still, box it up and hire Marc to trick it out for you. It will be one of the best investments you can make, and won't cost you an arm and a leg.

Yup, I'm thinking of doing just that. I'd like to do some of the work myself because I do enjoy it but I do know the limitations of my skills. So I figured I would try to do what I can and then send to marc to work his magic!
 
Yup, I'm thinking of doing just that. I'd like to do some of the work myself because I do enjoy it but I do know the limitations of my skills. So I figured I would try to do what I can and then send to marc to work his magic!

Your first post said you had some woodworking skills so you might consider making a new base and leaving all the mechanical work to Marc. That is what I did with my XB.

DSC_0478.jpg
 
The few modifications that marc does and recommends will result in more than a couple 2.0% gain in total performance.

Think I will box up one of the spare AR XA and ship it off next spring. :thumbsup:
 
Back
Top Bottom