AU 9500 recap
- Thread starter Devv
- Start date
I'd use 105C Panasonic FCs in most power places, taking care to match the pin spacing. "Audio" caps won't buy you anything (others will disagree and that's OK too). I would not change the orange low leakage Elnas on the tone board at all, unless there's something wrong with them, but absolutely change the two white Elna input caps (tantalum) near the edge. Use 0.47 uF film caps, Panasonic or similar. Do not use physically large caps there, which rules out all audiophile films. It's a high impedance location. Noisy transistors are also a possibility. I just did one of these and IMO, it may be one of the best sounding amplifiers that's ever gone across my bench. Absolutely magic when working right. You'll probably have to do a couple applications of DeOxit on the tone and other controls- look at the response with a scope to be sure they're working right. Where are you- put at least some vague description in your profile!
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mroboto
Super Member
Hi,
I have a list to help for your recap,
For the most of the small capacitors, i used Elna Cerafine and Silmic II exept for the driver board C815 & C817, they are too big to fit, i used Nichicon there, and Nichicon for the bigs too.
Main Alim
4700uf 63V
4700uf 63V
4700uf 63V
4700uf 63V
1000uf 80V
========================
F-2029 - Driver board 1
C801 2.2uf 50V Low noise
C807 220uf 6.3V
C815 47uf 80V
C817 47uf 80V
???? 3.3uf 100V Radial
???? 3.3uf 100V Radial
F-2029 - Driver board 2
C801 2.2uf 50V Low noise
C807 220uf 6.3V
C815 47uf 80V
C817 47uf 80V
???? 3.3uf 100V Radial
???? 3.3uf 100V Radial
========================
F-2030 - Power Supply
C052 100uf 75V
C054 220uf 75V
C055 100uf 75V
C057 470uf 16V
C058 220uf 75V
C060 220uf 50V
C062 220uf 50V
C901 47uf 10V (*BP*)
C902 74uf 10V (*BP*)
C906 1000uf 6.3V
C907 100uf 50V
C908 1uf 50V (*BP*)
F-2019
C701 0.47uf 25V
C702 0.47uf 25V
C703 47uf 16V
C704 47uf 16V
C705 47uf 6.3V
C706 47uf 6.3V
C709 4.7uf 50V Low Noise
C710 4.7uf 50V Low Noise
C717 2.2uf 50V Low Noise
C718 2.2uf 50V Low Noise
C719 47uf 6.3V
C720 47uf 6.3V
C723 4.7uf 50V Low Noise
C724 4.7uf 50V Low Noise
C731 47uf 50V Low Noise
C732 47uf 50V Low Noise
C733 220uf 35V
C734 220uf 35V
C799 220uf 25V
F-2006
C601 1uf 50V Low Noise
C602 1uf 50V Low Noise
C603 10uf 10V
C604 10uf 10V
C607 47uf 6.3V
C608 47uf 6.3V
C613 47uf 6.3V
C614 47uf 6.3V
C615 4.7uf 50V
C616 4.7uf 50V
C617 3.3uf 50V Low Noise
C618 3.3uf 50V Low Noise
I have a list to help for your recap,
For the most of the small capacitors, i used Elna Cerafine and Silmic II exept for the driver board C815 & C817, they are too big to fit, i used Nichicon there, and Nichicon for the bigs too.
Main Alim
4700uf 63V
4700uf 63V
4700uf 63V
4700uf 63V
1000uf 80V
========================
F-2029 - Driver board 1
C801 2.2uf 50V Low noise
C807 220uf 6.3V
C815 47uf 80V
C817 47uf 80V
???? 3.3uf 100V Radial
???? 3.3uf 100V Radial
F-2029 - Driver board 2
C801 2.2uf 50V Low noise
C807 220uf 6.3V
C815 47uf 80V
C817 47uf 80V
???? 3.3uf 100V Radial
???? 3.3uf 100V Radial
========================
F-2030 - Power Supply
C052 100uf 75V
C054 220uf 75V
C055 100uf 75V
C057 470uf 16V
C058 220uf 75V
C060 220uf 50V
C062 220uf 50V
C901 47uf 10V (*BP*)
C902 74uf 10V (*BP*)
C906 1000uf 6.3V
C907 100uf 50V
C908 1uf 50V (*BP*)
F-2019
C701 0.47uf 25V
C702 0.47uf 25V
C703 47uf 16V
C704 47uf 16V
C705 47uf 6.3V
C706 47uf 6.3V
C709 4.7uf 50V Low Noise
C710 4.7uf 50V Low Noise
C717 2.2uf 50V Low Noise
C718 2.2uf 50V Low Noise
C719 47uf 6.3V
C720 47uf 6.3V
C723 4.7uf 50V Low Noise
C724 4.7uf 50V Low Noise
C731 47uf 50V Low Noise
C732 47uf 50V Low Noise
C733 220uf 35V
C734 220uf 35V
C799 220uf 25V
F-2006
C601 1uf 50V Low Noise
C602 1uf 50V Low Noise
C603 10uf 10V
C604 10uf 10V
C607 47uf 6.3V
C608 47uf 6.3V
C613 47uf 6.3V
C614 47uf 6.3V
C615 4.7uf 50V
C616 4.7uf 50V
C617 3.3uf 50V Low Noise
C618 3.3uf 50V Low Noise
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Many thanks for the all important list. Is there a difference between your list and the one in the manual?
I am intrigued to know which brand was used by Sansui back in the day, any suggestions?
Should we not use the same brand, if possible, to retain the sonic signature of the amp?
Please correct me , this is just my thought.
Thanks in advance.
Dev
mroboto
Super Member
I don't remember if the manual or schematics was wrong somewhere.
Originally, they was 100% build with Elna
I think you can use Cerafine as a better substitute.
http://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitor_ele_elna_roa.html
Originally, they was 100% build with Elna
I think you can use Cerafine as a better substitute.
http://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitor_ele_elna_roa.html
Thanks so much, once again for sharing.
I am little surprised on recommendation of Cerafine and not Silmic II...
Please advice.
Dev
Will do so.
Meanwhile, I was trying to order the caps, as per your list, thru http://www.partsconnexion.com and received a mail stating,
"“Low noise” does not typically apply to capacitors.
Also, the 74uF type is not a standard value. I am sure we do not have it, but it can be made up from a 68uF cap and a 4.7uF cap
in parallel."
Do you think this is okay? Also needed is your valuable input on "Low Noise" caps issue as to confirm the order.
Regards,
Dev
74 is surely a typo for 47 - don't get hung up on that.... 
Also the term "Low Noise" applied to electrolytic capacitors, is thought to refer to 'low leakage' - the usual recommendation is to chose a low leakage type to replace all electrolytic capacitors so marked.
Also the term "Low Noise" applied to electrolytic capacitors, is thought to refer to 'low leakage' - the usual recommendation is to chose a low leakage type to replace all electrolytic capacitors so marked.
Thanks, this makes it easy !Ohhh, that sounds a tad difficult !
No wonder that I saw another list on the forum which has some difference of voltage on F-2019, listing 4 caps of 47uf 10V, instead of 4 caps of 47uf 6.3 V !:scratch2:
It also omits 2 caps on same board , 47uf 50 V.....
Any suggestions on using silver-oil caps? or they are a no-no....
Dev
Any suggestions?
I can't say I have ever heard of 'silver-oil' capacitors.
However, it doesn't sound like a replacement for any electrolytic - and you won't need to change the others - so I'll say 'no'
Using somewhat higher voltage electrolytic capacitor replacements is not a cardinal sin, in many cases it is a good idea, within reason. One or two 'clicks' up in voltage won't hurt (providing they fit), so a 10v or a 16V replacement for a 6.3V original is fine. I have taken this advice myself from AK member ConradH, and as he knows what he is talking about, I am very happy to follow it.
However, it doesn't sound like a replacement for any electrolytic - and you won't need to change the others - so I'll say 'no'
Using somewhat higher voltage electrolytic capacitor replacements is not a cardinal sin, in many cases it is a good idea, within reason. One or two 'clicks' up in voltage won't hurt (providing they fit), so a 10v or a 16V replacement for a 6.3V original is fine. I have taken this advice myself from AK member ConradH, and as he knows what he is talking about, I am very happy to follow it.
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rocknroller
Active Member
Old thread but I'm about to undertake a recap myself. Very confused on the 0.47 cap replacement statement above. The originals are polarized. Most film caps are not correct? So how/why will a non polarized film cap work in that location? Also why do not use physically large caps there? It's a high impedance location meaning? So it sounds like you are saying use a small, non polarized, non audiophile Film cap? Any example links of a proper one to use for this replacement? (preference is from ebay if possible) I see tons on there for a buck in quantity, but I don't want to be buying the wrong thing. Thanks for the help!
rocknroller
Active Member
The unit is working fine and is all original. Acquired from original owner and no previous work done. No obvious issues from a functional (user) perspective. As a course of matter, I always check the Power supply caps when I open up a piece of equipment. I found the 4 main ones to be in uf tolerance (barely) but ESR was showing right on the edge, one maybe even out of tolerance so thought it would be a good preventative measure to replace them. Given the value of the unit, didn't want to take any chance with the 4 power filters here (will do the single 1000uf cap as well)
The white elna 0.47uf Tantalums are original. Board clearly shows polarity, Caps have a Neg side marked, so I assume they are polarized. If they were Bi polar - How would I tell?
That's why I was hoping ConradH would respond as to exactly why he put in there, since he he the same parts originally.
The white elna 0.47uf Tantalums are original. Board clearly shows polarity, Caps have a Neg side marked, so I assume they are polarized. If they were Bi polar - How would I tell?
That's why I was hoping ConradH would respond as to exactly why he put in there, since he he the same parts originally.
It's been too long to remember exactly what part I used for the 0.47 uF, but I remember that's a fussy place in terms of impedance and leakage. IMO, changing those two caps to film might have been the biggest improvement in sound. Any small film should do the trick. I probably used Panasonic ECQ reddish brown epoxy dipped polyester (Mylar) caps, as that's something I stock a lot of and have a good history with. They're quite small. The Panasonic film seems to have a bit lower loss than other polyesters I've tested- I call it Panasonic mystery film. No doubt there are small Wima block caps that would do nicely too.
rocknroller
Active Member
So no concerns on polarity then when using those non polarized films?
No, no concerns.
If you are unsure if you have chosen the right replacements post a link here before you order.
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