Best Vintage Turntables

I have been quietly stalking this TT on flea bay. What a beauty. Even though Im getting a highly modified Sl 1200 today from my brother in law cheap.... Dont really wanna cheat on my Sl1200. But Dam. Shes a hottie.

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Pioneer makes a great turntable. I had a older unit and wish I didn't have to get rid of it but needed a lot of service. The woodwork looks like it was redone but is really nice. They sound great also.
 
I have been quietly stalking this TT on flea bay. What a beauty. Even though Im getting a highly modified Sl 1200 today from my brother in law cheap.... Dont really wanna cheat on my Sl1200. But Dam. Shes a hottie.

Ohhh I really like her, I do, I like her.:D


An appropriate quote from an upcoming movie.:)
 
This thread caught my eye.

I picked up a Kenwood KD 750 and I am really impressed.
Heavy and beautiful looking.

I hope some of the contributors can chime in their thoughts on this TT.
 
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Thorens TD-320 / 318 /316 series is well engineered with a nice leaf suspension. Plus the TD-320 / 318 has an awesome auto-lift feature at end of LP.
 
Here's my question, Technics, JVC, Pioneer, Kenwood, Thorens, Dual, etc... all have base to TOTL models.
Has anyone had experience with various models of a certain brand, have strictly sonics opinions using the same cart?
Let's say models in the 500-600 price range, which simply sound the best, regarding dynamics, high end detail and good punchy bass? I know carts make huge differences, but curious what really stands out in this price range.
An example, my Technics SL-1900 with the ZU modded Denon DL-103 mc sounds great. Would a SL-1200/1210 sound substantially better with the same cart?

I really had my sights on the JVC QL-A7/7 models, but there may be better sounding TT's I haven't considered.
Cheers, Glenn
 
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Money wise, it is tuff to beat a Technics SL-BD3, this can be had for not alot of money and with a decent cart is a real sleeper.

SL-D1 or SL-D2 beats it for no more cash outlay. And has a more reliable motor, and no T4p mount limiting your cartridge choices. Not to mention better built all around.
 
I have been using a Thorens TD-160 since the early 1980 and later added a Thorens TD-125 Mk-II. They are the best value for the money (not the best, period) and I have no reason to change. Thorens is one of the early turntable manufacturer who understands the importance of designing high precision platter bearing and uses extra hard material for it. (You can find very thorough discussion of this aspect of turntable design in Linn Sondak literature.) It allows the Thorens turntable to keep its sonic character year after years.

The Thorens drive belt and suspended sub-chassis offers a level of isolation from motor noise only DD turntable in the over $10K range can match. Many mid range DD turntable sound ok when new, but performance start to slide fast over time due to simple cause of cost verse manufacturing.
 
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Best in general - Thorens TD-124 or one of several Fairchild models. Many runner-ups, including Garrard 301 and some of the other classic US made transcription tables of the 1950s into early 1960s.
I own a thorens td121 and these and td124 are superior but high maintenance decks BUT even a for Parts only can cost $Au. 1000.
Even old lp12 linns fetch this and are much inferior IMO. So in the real $ 2-300 world you won't even find a thorens td160 but you can find a Technics sl1401 . A superb suspended direct drive which I rate above any early Linn or td160. Only direct drive and the idlers have convincing pace to me.
 
I have been using a Thorens TD-160 since the early 1980 and later added a Thorens TD-125 Mk-II. They are the best value for the money (not the best, period) and I have no reason to change. Thorens is one of the early turntable manufacturer who understands the importance of designing high precision platter bearing and uses extra hard material for it. (You can find very thorough discussion of this aspect of turntable design in Linn Sondak literature.) It allows the Thorens turntable to keep its sonic character year after years.

The Thorens drive belt and suspended sub-chassis offers a level of isolation from motor noise only DD turntable in the over $10K range can match. Many mid range DD turntable sound ok when new, but performance start to slide fast over time due to simple cause of cost verse manufacturing.
What price is mid range?
What price do you put on low maintenance?
The sprung Sondek ,td160 etc require fiddling forever to keep correct bounce.
Give me a sl 1401 ,sl1200 any day.actually the former is sprung and stays put.
 
I have a Miida t3115 ( Denon gt700) that I think is great! I also have a Yamaha yp-d6 that's good too. Neither of which are huge money, but worth every penny
 
What price is mid range?
What price do you put on low maintenance?
The sprung Sondek ,td160 etc require fiddling forever to keep correct bounce.
Give me a sl 1401 ,sl1200 any day.actually the former is sprung and stays put.
There is no such thing as a "low maintenance" phono record playing system. The record album itself needs constant TLC. You do not just take it out of the sleeve, drop it on the turntable and drop the tonearm to play. Contrary to what you stated, a suspended sub-chassis platter needs adjustment only after years of use, usually less frequent than tonearm tuning and much less frequent than record cleaning. Yes, it does need tuning.

You are right about a direct drive turntable motor. Once the motor bearing wear becomes audible, there is nothing you can do but to buy a new deck. I consider a turntable, tonearm and cartridge combo to be in mid price range when it total about $6000 or less, with 1/4 to 1/3 goes to the deck. This is by no mean high end, but more like mid fi. The cartridge is usually the most costly item with the tonearm comes in next. I spend money on equipment where I can hear the most difference, as in this order.

Also, not all belt drive turntable has suspended sub-chassis platter. Rega turntable is one of the best example of a rigid deck without a sub-chassis. The choice of a turntable is very personal and subjective. If you like your Technics SL1200/SL1401, it is wonderful. But take care of your record album too.
 
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Here's my question, Technics, JVC, Pioneer, Kenwood, Thorens, Dual, etc... all have base to TOTL models.
Has anyone had experience with various models of a certain brand, have strictly sonics opinions using the same cart?

An example, my Technics SL-1900 with the ZU modded Denon DL-103 mc sounds great. Would a SL-1200/1210 sound substantially better with the same cart?

I really had my sights on the JVC QL-A7/7 models, but there may be better sounding TT's I haven't considered.
Cheers, Glenn

Your example uses the same manufacturer making sonic impression somewhat harder to find differences. I don't think anyone has done an extensive search/listen to a large number of major manufacturers' table with the same cartridge as once someone gets one of these much better tables they stop looking and maybe go up to something better, not across to something similar. I'm sure there are some that might have an answer for a couple comparisons but not a lot of them.

I would think that any of the Japanese DD tables from the era that were totl of the consumer line (not the Kenwood L-07D, for example, too high up) would all sound very good with a few differences. Differences that could easily be overcome with a fine high quality separate tonearm. The bigger differences in your list would be the Thorens tables vs. the Japanese onslaught of tables.

This thread caught my eye.

I picked up a Kenwood KD 750 and I am really impressed.
Heavy and beautiful looking.

I hope some of the contributors can chime in their thoughts on this TT.

Folks really like this table for the reasons you state. Immune to feedback, able to take a bump and not skip, too. Decent tonearms on these upper end tables, too. I have had a KD-500/Mayware, KD-650 and KD-600/Fidelity Research/Magnepan Unitrac and maybe others since I still have this one. A keeper. That separate arm can make a nice difference as they can be better but the Kenny arm is good, too.


I have been using a Thorens TD-160 since the early 1980 and later added a Thorens TD-125 Mk-II. They are the best value for the money (not the best, period) and I have no reason to change. Thorens is one of the early turntable manufacturer who understands the importance of designing high precision platter bearing and uses extra hard material for it. (You can find very thorough discussion of this aspect of turntable design in Linn Sondak literature.) It allows the Thorens turntable to keep its sonic character year after years.

The Thorens drive belt and suspended sub-chassis offers a level of isolation from motor noise only DD turntable in the over $10K range can match. Many mid range DD turntable sound ok when new, but performance start to slide fast over time due to simple cause of cost verse manufacturing.

There really aren't any dd tables over 10k from back then and there are some very special dd tables like the aforementioned L-07D. Other statement pieces from Luxman (PD-555 or the earlier PD-441/444 all with magnetically suspended platters above the bearing) as well as other makers are very highly regarded today. The Thorens are excellent, currently in the stable a TD-160 Super and a TD-125 both sporting aftermarket tonearms. I'd let em both go for a PD-441 or higher in good nick. But I agree the TD-125 is a great value and a classic. Hard to beat.
 
There really aren't any dd tables over 10k from back then and there are some very special dd tables like the aforementioned L-07D. Other statement pieces from Luxman (PD-555 or the earlier PD-441/444 all with magnetically suspended platters above the bearing) as well as other makers are very highly regarded today.
You are right about the price for Japanese made DD turntable back then. Even the legendary Technics SP-10 or those you mentioned are in the low $K range. What I am thinking of are modern decks such as the VPI Classic Direct Drive Turntable that goes for $30K now.
 
I have a number of tables near TOTL, from Yamaha, JVC, Denon, and Pioneer, and really I don't hear anything noise wise relating to the bearing, they are all dead quite. Actually I don't notice any real differences other than the cart I use on them.
 
There is no such thing as a "low maintenance" phono record playing system. The record album itself needs constant TLC. You do not just take it out of the sleeve, drop it on the turntable and drop the tonearm to play. Contrary to what you stated, a suspended sub-chassis platter needs adjustment only after years of use, usually less frequent than tonearm tuning and much less frequent than record cleaning. Yes, it does need tuning.

You are right about a direct drive turntable motor. Once the motor bearing wear becomes audible, there is nothing you can do but to buy a new deck. I consider a turntable, tonearm and cartridge combo to be in mid price range when it total about $6000 or less, with 1/4 to 1/3 goes to the deck. This is by no mean high end, but more like mid fi. The cartridge is usually the most costly item with the tonearm comes in next. I spend money on equipment where I can hear the most difference, as in this order.

Also, not all belt drive turntable has suspended sub-chassis platter. Rega turntable is one of the best example of a rigid deck without a sub-chassis. The choice of a turntable is very personal and subjective. If you like your Technics SL1200/SL1401, it is wonderful. But take care of your record album too.
 
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