Bought a boat

HiFi in WYO

The universe is a big place, perhaps the biggest.
So the wife and I had been toying with getting back into the boat scene. We picked up this beauty - a 1989 Bayliner Capri 1950 bow rider with a 3.0 four cylinder from an "aging" couple locally. They bought it new but decided they were just too old to get in and out of it and work on it (so they now own jetskis). :thumbsup:

Anyhow, it's clean, runs good now (had to rebuild the carb) and in my opinion is a pretty well-made boat. Little did I know the, I guess, ostracism against the brand.

Like I do with anything else, I research the heck out of things - though this was a purchase first, ask questions later deal - and while looking things up, across the boating world Bayliner seems to be the Bose of the boating world. Jeesh, what a conversation gets started on the boards when the brand is mentioned. Crap, junk ... junk and crap - seems to be the comments. Well it's neither and we're pretty happy. 19 feet long and seemingly nearly as wide. Stable and cruises around 35 mph full throttle - which given our elevation (5,000 + feet) plus the factory pitch prop, ain't bad. Not the most efficient combination of boat and motor out there, but for the price, condition and what we want out of it - it works. I do feel like donning a sport coat, Ray Bans and penny loafers when I board it though. :)

index.php


index.php


index.php
 
Last edited:
That picture brings back a lot of memories. I had the exact same boat but mine had the 305 V-8 Chevy engine. We had a lot of fun in it, tubing, fishing and skiing.
 
The wife and I looked at boats a few years ago. Was told to avoid Rinker and Bayliner--by salesmen who sold other brands at a lot higher price. To my eyes, they seemed just as nice and a lot better value. Either way, look at it as a hole in the water to throw your money in. Enjoy the hell out of it-congrats...
 
Keeping it out of the elements while not using it was my biggest headache. If you can somehow keep it under cover everything will last a lot longer. I had to do floors and re-upholster the interior.
 
I've always liked the looks of Bayliners, and that would be a prime consideration for my decision to buy. I seem to recall that Bayliner had some issue with construction years ago, they corrected it but have been dogged with bad rep ever since.

If the floor isn't springy, you're good!
 
I've done that before. I restored my grandparent's '72 Crestliner. Replaced everything inside, including the floor. PIA work but rewarding in that it I grew up on that boat with them and I did get several years of fun with it once done.

This one came with a custom cover and the original owner had three additional covers on it. There's a few surface cracks in the vinyl, but nothing major - so I've coated everything with marine vinyl UV protectant in addition to keeping it covered. No soggy floors.
 
Bayliner and OMC, the two swear words of the boating world :)

A lot of the problem with these, and all boats, is storage and care. The Bayliners (and others) used cored fiberglass and if you just let them sit out and do not take any care to repair leaks, cracks, or plug any holes drilled into the deck or hatch covers the core wood gets wet and rots. If this is an 89 with original interior, it has obviously been taken care of. It doesn't take that long for the vinyl seats to get faded, grey spotted, and start to crack if they are neglected. Keeping the mooring cover on and/or storage indoors does absolute wonders for how things hold up. Don't leave it sit uncovered in the back yard under a tree all the time and it will last. The gelcoat not being all chalky and nasty also says it was taken care of.

OMC specific stuff, make sure the shift cables are good and adjusted properly. If it gives you problems shifting, or if it stalls going in and out of gear the lower cable is probably going bad, and/or its not adjusted right. Its a fairly critical adjustment and you can blow the lower unit if its not where it needs to be. There is also a stumbler circuit in there (its the thing where the shift cables come together) that needs to work right or it will grind until the gears are gone. Some had a magic box for that, others it was just a microswitch that shorts out the points or ignition module to make the engine miss for a moment when shifting. Inspect the bellows if you haven't. If it cracks you'll take on water like you wouldn't believe.
 
Just to add to this.Ensure that the drive is full of oil,use the dip stick.If it isn't full you can and will take out the upper gear set.If you are going to service the drive your self fill the drive from the middle plug above the cavitation plate on the Starboard side.There is a chance of trapping air in the gear case that could result in a failure.I would also suggest that you use the semi synthetic gear oil that you can purchase at your BRP or Mercruiser dealer.Also dosen't hurt to pull the drive seasonally to service the U Joints and while you are in there have a good look at the bellows and give the gimball bearing a turn to feel for rough spots.A newer bearing will be fairly stiff but will turn smoothly.It should also get a shot of grease when you service the u joints.or at least seasonally.If you hear a rolling noise like a bad wheel bearing it is time to replace the bearing.If you hear a clicking,knocking noise when turning expecially at part trim your u joints are in need of service or replacement.
The Cobra isn't as bad as some say,though I prefer Mercruiser..Even though they haven't been made in years most parts are available either through the OEM's or Aftermarket.The water pump in the drive is very easy to service.The big Pita is the shift assist as previously mentioned.It does require a bit of care to set up.All the Cobras used a shift assist module that were prone to failure,.
 
Congrats on the new boat Captain!

I sold my 17' Four Winns about a year ago that had that same outdrive, I would heed Hawkgt's advice about the correct filling procedure for that outdrive, don't ask me how I know.

Otherwise it was a great running boat, I kinda miss it.

I don't know what prop you're running, but I switched my stock prop for one with slightly less pitch and it made huge difference in the boat's ability to pop up out of the water and get on plane, especially when pulling tubers and wake boarders, though it does reduce top speed some.

Good luck and have fun.
 
Break.Out.Another.Thousand.
That said, I don't regret (much) the fun/expense I had in the 61 Chris Craft or Pachanga22; now the '76 Checkmate is the only one left, and it hasn't touched water in 5 years. Storage and proper covering to avoid mold takes a while to learn, but is as critical as all the other maintenance.
The family has a similar vintage boat 'up north' for 'ferry' use, with very similar construction, but even though it spends most of it's summer sitting at the dock, and gets 'marginal' care in winter, it still runs strong and is only now beginning to suffer vinyl deterioration. On it's 4th or 5th top, though, which are hideously expensive to have custom made.
Yah, I don't think I'd have purchased a Bayliner, but to each their own, and this sure looks well cared for.
As Gadget said, spar rot under the fiberglass is what kills most of these older fiberglass boats.
Have fun, take the safe boating courses, and enjoy the heck out of it!!
(Ah, also the 'sidebar' fun of sitting and watching newbies launch and retrieve boats at the local ramp is cheap entertainment as well...even if sometimes You get to be The Entertainment (started the Chris w/o flame arrestor attached, found out what that's for!)
Wheeee!!
 
IMG_20180702_110559.jpg

that's how I spent my last 3 days. picture taken at 30 mph at about 10am yesterday

This boat ("Chris") is my 3rd, the first being a 1988 bayliner 1500 capri and the second being a 1988 Bayliner 1950 Capri with the 305.

You have a perfectly fine boat with absolutely nothing wrong with it.

The history: in the past, boating of any type was a rich mans game. You went to a dealer, got a boat, got a trailer, got an engine, from 3 separate entities and had the dealer outfit with equipment. The cost, being that every purchase was a 'one off', was astronomical (for 1970's)

Enter Brunswick (yes, the maker of billiard tables and bowling alleys) and ceo Jack Recihert, he purchased Bayliner (a fine company with a huge pacific northwest history) and Sea Ray - the first citizen sport boat company outside of chris craft.

Since they also acquired mercury marine and US marine, now, the factories were producing boats, with an in house trailer, and a branded, but corporate drive and in house accessories and due to the in-house ness, as well as purchasing power and the elimination of middle men, the package price was less than HALF that of competitors. Since the dealers were paid to goto trade shows and mall shows in the 80's and they dangled complete boating packages for less than a new car, the population exploded.

If you were a dealer, selling the dealer assembled, hand built Cobalt line (for example) OF COURSE you started spreading misinformation by word of mouth. To any naysayer, when you ask them what failed and for who, it was always the 'girlfriend of cousins ex wife who had a friend located over somewhere'. No, the coast guard had no advisories. No, the NMMA did not speak unfavorably about the brand. No, no boats were banned.

At the same time, bayliner itself had a long standing contract with OMC (maker evinrude, johnson) to use OMC motors for sterndrives and remnants of the old chrysler corporation for outboards and BOY, did that rankle brunswick.

outboard wise, the 'Force' (as they became known once brunswick purchased the assets to end the contract) were sneezy, poor running and old tech. not all that desirable. Stern drive wise, OMC finally abandoned the string drive (long favored in the pacific northwest for its ability to tilt ALL of the sterndrive out of the salt water, metal technology being what it was) with the new OMC cobra series, which was a clean sheet of paper. In 1989, when your engine was made, you had exactly 3 stern drive choices in the US for that boat: Mercruiser Alpha 1, OMC Cobra drive and Yamaha. It would be worth noting that the Yamaha sterndrive was a direct copy of the Cobra, and the Alpha 1 is then, as it is now: junk. (sorry, but the full name of my business if 'GAMMA' aka Graffius auto marine motorcycle atv and being certified to work on both OMC and merc, the merc is by far the weaker sister. Do mercs anecdotally some times last? sure. But if you spec a cobra drive, the conversation about longevity never comes up.

Do parts break or wear in a boat? yes. they are pounding into water with forces that will turn your body to jelly. proper boat ownership is maintenance AND just because it is a boat, don't leave it outside uncovered in the winter.

Your motor is based on a GM forklift/industrial 4 cylinder well suited to marine life, it will rarely if ever see north of 4400 rpm which is just fine for longevity and at 130/140hp (I forget the spec for your year) its a little low on power for a 19ft boat allowed to handle 7 people or x-lbs. The crap people put inside boats is amazingly heavy and crap in the stern hinder your climb out onto plane. Your stern drive biggest weak link is the shift cable, storing the drive on the trailer in full tilt puts strain on where the cable meets the brass end guide and it breaks. One day it will got into reverse, break, go into forward and stay there forever. The part is/was about $110 and an hour of your life to fix. The motors weakest link(s) are corrosion of the points in the distributor. (look up petronix) and boiling of the ESA module. This is a large improvement over mercury for dog leg shifted stern drives. Mercury temporarily shorts the ignition to release gear lash torque and enable you to get in/out of gear. OMC built an electronic gizmo that when activated by these funny looking 'fingers' on the shift cable ends, limits instantaneous rpm to about 340 allowing smooth engagement and removing certain death from any aftermarket electronic spark modules you might have added. BUT! inside the engine compartment, and since these are bolted to the intake and all the heat, they fry. (not at all different from issues we have with amps) My local fix was to divorce the ESA from the engine itself. I did a lot of work in this area as a partner/beta tester with MSD to come up with an interface to allow the ESA to work with the 6M spark module. I think I still have one in stock and I would give it up, but its a v8 module and well...yanno.,

On a personal note, and what got me in the business/hobby was my mall show purchase of a 1988 1500 capri with a 50hp force. I quickly learned what was salesman BS and that with more than 3 reasonable adults, she would not get on plane. so being kidless and just the wife and I, we worked on an upgrade and settled on a 19ft GlassStream with the 4.3v6 2bbl. BUT! that fall the same dealer had another show and made me an offer: trade in my half paid for 1500 for what I paid for it, on a 1988 1950 capri leftover at a great show price. But it had a v8 and I was not sure I needed that power, but what the heck. I got to put it in the water that fall on lake candlewood CT a few weeks and found 'yanno what, this thing roasts thru 50mph with ease'. And, it was a chevy v8 and what had I spend half my youth working on?

The 1950 capri has a shallow V hull with 3 steps and responds WELL to power. within a couple years I had the money and time to pull 304hp at 5000rpm (prop limited - you will learn what that means) and hit 62mph on glass - radar verified. anymore was diminishing returns...so much hull was out of water any upset and she started chine walking - you don't want to learn what that means, but should for safety's sake).
put a doel fin on the back and put a person in the front to combat bow rise, and I was a 1-2-3 finisher every summer in the early 90's in the summer drags on the lake pictured above. others were faster, but they could not out-pull her. She even put a few jet owners in tears. somewhere I have some pics of when we popped 5 adults deep-water starts on skis. Beat that Correct Craft!

Anyways, more history, disaster for the boating world struck in the 90's, OMC was bleeding money, buying some things and selling others. One good thing was the license/sale of the cobra king cobra drive to Volvo, who married various parts of the king with their own volvo AQ series and created the 'SX/Cobra' - hands down the best all around stern drive ever built. simple, strong, easy to work on. And in 2000 the OMC boat group went bankrupt. OMC had been acquiring boat makers to, in order to do what brunswick had done. The last 80's thru the mid 90's were the golden years. more than half the respected names in boat hulls were now owned in a way that affordable packages were everywhere. The boating population took off in a way the world has never seen its equal. So when they went bankrupt and the remains were picked over by Bombardier, GenMar etc, Brunswick now had what every company dreams of: no viable competition. Most of the larger names were picked up by someone, but they had no further access to package deals and rather than keep prices low, Brunswick raised them to 'just below' the competition. As a result, in 17 years boat prices have tripled. The dot bomb of the early 2000's and the sub prime implosion of 2008 have made it once again a rich mans game. To replace my current boat (now 21 years old) today would require, foot per foot, amenity per amenity over $65000 for most 'value' brands, and close to $100000 from Chris craft. No thank you.

So you did good any utterly ignore anyone who tells you otherwise and if they disagree, send them to me. put a fin on back (if not there already) so she planes easier and keep up on the maint and see another 30 years from it. the std 4 inch foam in the front and rear seats can be had in high density 5-6 inch flavors from jo anne fabrics and you can replace the carpet with lowes outdoor grade, just get the frig out of the boat when you spread the cement as the hull holds in the fumes. don't contemplate a v8 conversion as the cobra drive has the wrong gear ratio and prop clearance. a 2bbl v6 is doable. we even worked up a conversion for the EFI 3.1 GM back in the 90's using closed cooling. K&N makes a legal air cleaner for that. the escort trailer has back backing plate mounts already installed so you can add simple surge drum brakes (highly recommended) and if you ever remove the stern drive for maint or replacement of the gimbal bearing, I created a wooden stand that fits and lets you tilt the drive to burp the oil - you can have it if you ever get east. and lastly for now, the drive mounted water pump is changeable in the water, but don't let it get so bad you have to discover that, change it every other year.
 
Last edited:
(Ah, also the 'sidebar' fun of sitting and watching newbies launch and retrieve boats at the local ramp is cheap entertainment as well...even if sometimes You get to be The Entertainment (started the Chris w/o flame arrestor attached, found out what that's for!)
Wheeee!!

Thanks for all of the tips and advice. Just FYI, this isn't our first rodeo (as we say out here) with a boat - I grew up around these things and restored/owned my grandparents boat for several years - though no tilt/trim and it was an outboard. My wife had her dad's '90 Bayliiner 18 footer when I met her with a 4.3 Nice boat until her father took it back from her and proceeded to not winterize the engine and, well you know what happens.

This thing about newbies - when I first got the old Crestliner running my ex and I went and practiced ... a lot. There was no way we were going to be those people. My wife and I are pretty adept at backing in and taking out of the water - no issues there.

The stern drive and tilt/trim thing is new to me and I'm getting the feel for the "sweet spot" on the 3.0. About 4,200 rpms and she tops out. On glass with two people we can run about 37 but with three people and fishing gear and a tube, we're around 35. I'm not a speed demon anymore so this is perfectly fine with me. She gets up on plane very quickly even in chop so that's a good thing. I'm not a big fan of the windows - they're pretty raked back and I could do without the side windows - a lot less space to fish from, but this wasn't meant to be a fishing boat.

We really had no brand in mind when we were looking Probably a Glastron since there seems to be a few of them for sale - there was a Carlson for sale locally with a 350 Chevy - very tempting but wife said hell no! But I hadn't really given it much thought as far as brands - just condition. Personally, I like tri-hulls - they're very stable in rough water (that's what the Crestliner was) but they're aging now. We didn't want a closed bow - for ease of docking. We just happened to drive by this boat one night (about six blocks from our house) and it had a for sale sign on it. So we looked at it and I was really taken in by its condition. It's only been on one lake locally since the owners own property there. There are no engine leaks, no outdrive leaks and it doesn't take in really any water during use. As a shade tree mechanic, it was the mechanicals I was looking at. And after having our local marina check it out, and getting the carb kit installed - clean bill of health. And she runs like it. Is it underpowered? A bit. But finding a very clean, well cared for used boat for $3K is pretty hard, at least around here. Most everything that has come up either looks like it was on the bottom at some point or left to bake outdoors or has engine/outdrive issues, or it's a 16-footer. No thanks.

I will certainly take everyone's advice - and keep her in top condition - while we're out there enjoying our piece of junk Bayliner watching everyone else in their $90,000 Tiges and Cobalts and the like. Admiring them for sure, but comfortable in knowing we didn't mortgage the house to get out on the water!
 
Congrats! I haven't been boating since my family got rid of a late 70s Searay 24'

My wife has never been in a boat even though she grew up "down the shore"... we talk about picking something up in the next couple years.
 
stern drive tilt/trim 101:

when sitting, tuck it all the way under. in this position is forces the forward part of the lifting strakes down and lets them trap more water to climb faster.

once you are on plane, bit by bit and slowly bring the drive up, as you move a few degrees, you will feel the bow come up and speed climb as now she is riding on the rear most sections of the steps. too much trim and she will start porpoising (annoying bow bounce on smooth water) and/or will vibrate thru the u joint. trim back down for rough water or tight turns - too much trim in a tight turn and the prop will cavitate as you come out of the turn and you can fall off plane.

seriously tho, put a fin on the anti cavitation plate of the drive. it WILL help and at the speeds you are seeing, it is not a major contributor to drag so top end will not be affected. it will lessen cavitation as well. just dont use it as a step to get out of the water....

if you have a clean hull with no hook, lightly loaded and trimmed on glass, I bet you smell 40mph.

what size prop? (its stamped in the hub) you need to be able to sustain 4000-4200 WOT trimmed rpm or else you are propped too high. a stainless prop has a thinner blade cross section and will be more efficient.
 
Back
Top Bottom