Bought YAMAHA M-70, C-70, & T-70 needs TLC

Gary D Olson

Skilled Tightwad
Yamaha m-70, c-70, & t-70 fixed, thanks to rob41!!!

Greetings.

It's hot here in Southern California - triple digits - yet I drove 30 miles to Pasadena to meet a craigslister selling the above Yamaha gear for $300. We agreed on $250 over the phone.

When I arrived, I plugged an iPod into the preamp (c-70) and switched everything on. The music from the LEFT channel sounded scratchy and much less volume. "Bad LEFT speaker" I ask myself?

I unplugged both speakers, then plugged the LEFT speaker with the ungodly sound into the RIGHT channel of the amp and it sounded great. Okay; it's not the speaker. Bad speaker terminal on the amp, perhaps?

I switched the speaker back to the LEFT channel on the amp using speaker "B" output. It sucked again. Hmm. Not the speakers or the amp terminals. Bad LEFT channel on the amp?

I inverted the L/R RCA connection coming from the pre, and it sounded great again. Good. That proved it isn't the amplifier. It also proved the RCA cable is working properly. (Gulp) Bad iPod connection? (PLEASE)

I invert the RCA left/right coming from the iPod. It sucked again. That narrows it down to a bad LEFT channel on the preamp. I told the seller (who had no idea what to do through all this) that a repair would likely start at $60 and offered him $190.00 for the trio. He took it.

The tuner was bundled and is of no concern at the moment. I was mostly after the amplifier which works and sounds fantastic, but 4 VU meter lights are out and I'd like to fix that. I also need to fix the preamp and either use it or sell it. I'm no repairman, but I'm fearless at TRYING to fix things with a "successfully-fixed / still broke / utterly-destroyed" ratio at about 70/20/10. Oh, and I do own a cheap multimeter thing-a-ma-jig and soldering iron. I'd greatly appreciate any advice about DIY repair on this, even if your advice is that tinkering around the innards of these components is best left for experts. If that is the case, I'll pay to have it repaired (in 2048).

Thanks!
 
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Hey Gary, nice nab on those Yamaha components. I work in Rancho near Haven and Arrow. If you need any help, let me know.

Time to take each component and check them out individually. I'm sure you've narrowed it down but time to get some DeOxit for all controls, and service manuals as you'll need that to narrow down the potential problems.

Regards,

Bart
 
Hey Gary, nice nab on those Yamaha components. I work in Rancho near Haven and Arrow. If you need any help, let me know.

Time to take each component and check them out individually. I'm sure you've narrowed it down but time to get some DeOxit for all controls, and service manuals as you'll need that to narrow down the potential problems.

Regards,

Bart


Bart,

Talk about small world; my office is about a mile and a half from there near Arrow and Rochester. Say the word & lunch at Cowboys is on me. The best Patti Melt I've ever tasted.

Another AK'er over at "Vintage Solid State" suggested I drop both components off at Northridge Electronics and get them back "better than new". Money is tight these days but that may be the thing to do because I seriously doubt I'm capable of getting them in that condition. What are your thoughts on that?

Thanks.


Gary
 
but 4 VU meter lights are out and I'd like to fix that. I

Check the solder connections for the inop LED's first.

Verify the driver chip (TA7612AP) is functioning correctly for those inop LED's. If its not then........
http://www.littlediode.com/product.php?productid=448405


If the LED's are the problem then...
They are orange/amber LEDs .To get the color and intensity correct it is highly suggested that you replace all of them with the same part number replacements.

Need 40 ea.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMtmwHDZQCdlqa5LUHsI%2bsRXP6s36VonZM4=
 
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Check the solder connections for the inop LED's first.

Verify the driver chip (TA7612AP) is functioning correctly for those inop LED's. If its not then........
http://www.littlediode.com/product.php?productid=448405


If the LED's are the problem then...
They are orange/amber LEDs .To get the color and intensity correct it is highly suggested that you replace all of them with the same part number replacements.

Need 40 ea.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMtmwHDZQCdlqa5LUHsI%2bsRXP6s36VonZM4=


Aside from studying the light show, how does one verify if the driver chip is functioning as designed?

Thanks!


Gary
 
Aside from studying the light show, how does one verify if the driver chip is functioning as designed?

Thanks!


Gary

Compare the outputs(of the chip) to the non-working LEDs with the outputs of the working LED's . All 10 outputs on each chip should be the same.

With the speakers disconnected and a preamp or signal generator connected to the pre-in. Drive enough signal into the amplifier to light up all the LED's.
then test the LED driver chips output voltages.
 
Compare the outputs(of the chip) to the non-working LEDs with the outputs of the working LED's . All 10 outputs on each chip should be the same.

With the speakers disconnected and a preamp or signal generator connected to the pre-in. Drive enough signal into the amplifier to light up all the LED's.
then test the LED driver chips output voltages.

Thanks for the info.

I'm in the middle of a once-over with the C-70 and you just can NOT believe the amount of dust in the case. The previous owner must have had them stored in a dusty garage or worse. After removing the lid, the first thing I did (following a veritable sneeze fest) was run out to my garage to turn the compressor on, which chased away an endless amount of matter, and it was everywhere. I'm surprised the thing hadn't start on fire.

Thanks again.


Gary
 
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Bart,

Talk about small world; my office is about a mile and a half from there near Arrow and Rochester. Say the word & lunch at Cowboys is on me. The best Patti Melt I've ever tasted.

Another AK'er over at "Vintage Solid State" suggested I drop both components off at Northridge Electronics and get them back "better than new". Money is tight these days but that may be the thing to do because I seriously doubt I'm capable of getting them in that condition. What are your thoughts on that?

Thanks.


Gary

MMMMmm, patty melt! Sounds good to me. Northridge Electronics is very good, and for any repairs in SoCal, is a good go-to guy for practically anything. However, as you are finding out, you may need just a good cleaning and some control and switch treatments to see if it just isn't an intermittent connection or control, followed by checking for bad solder joints.


Check the solder connections for the inop LED's first.

Verify the driver chip (TA7612AP) is functioning correctly for those inop LED's. If its not then........
http://www.littlediode.com/product.php?productid=448405


If the LED's are the problem then...
They are orange/amber LEDs .To get the color and intensity correct it is highly suggested that you replace all of them with the same part number replacements.

Need 40 ea.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMtmwHDZQCdlqa5LUHsI%2bsRXP6s36VonZM4=

That's a bunch!
 
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