I picked up a pair but with black grillZ. The blk one's are not bad on the eyes so I'll keep them on. The speakers are in good cond and sound fantastic.
Yes this is a completely different beast then the ADS L-910. Any idea how to reconcile the difference between crossover values for speakers 1 & 2? Speaker 1 has 13.6uf & 48uf and speaker 2 has 16.5uf & 40uf. The other 2 values are consistent with 4.7uf for the tweeter and 80-83uf for the woofer. Its the mid values that seem to vary significantly. The best I can guess to do is to just make them the same. Since I bought 4.7uf bypass caps for each crossover, to simplify things I was just going to go with 4.7uf, 14.7uf, 44.7uf, and 82.7uf (combination of 4.7+10+68uf).
First off, thanks for taking the time to post the pictures. An interesting look back in time.
It is possible that there was a design change in the xover components and your pair straddle the change. I agree that you should match up both sides to the same values and go from there. I think you should will also want to pull the connectors on each driver, clean them up and reconnect.
Are they ADS or German version? Can you see the drivers through the grill? Please post a pic.
BraUn L910 with blk grills. I cant post a pic jus yet, my camera is not working.
I had been stalking this pair for over a month. Thats why I had asked you what your impression on them were several weeks ago. Yours were the first pics Ive seen of them and didnt know if I should go check them out or not. I didnt know how they would sound.
Serial numbers: 012283 and 012284
If that means anything
Ouch!! There's a good chance those were designed by Dieter Rams or Reinhold Weiss. Too bad about the destroyed grills. Most of Braun's work are design classics.
Are they ADS or German version? Can you see the drivers through the grill? Please post a pic.
AmCan is it a wise thing to change out the film caps? I was under the impression form a number of similar threads that this may change the sound
from what the designers intended. Just like to know your thought on this. Electolytics I get, but film caps are much more stable and therfore do not need to be replace (yes-no).
Here they are..
The film caps are not original parts. From the research I have conducted on this speaker it would appeasr that the bipolar ERO caps are the original caps used by the designer. The fact that the 2 speakers sounded relatively good dispite having different caps with different values between the 2 crossover networks not too mention that some of the caps are dried out tells me that its not such a bid deal. At least in my situation. Using better caps sould produce a better and if anything a more accurate sound then the 38 year old caps that were in there to start. Part of my reason for doing this project is to learn exactly the things that you are asking. Who is to say what this speaker SHOULD sound like anymore anyways. Nobody could know for sure anymore. Most of what one hears when listening to audio gear is circuit design not part selection. Certain types of caps add a sonic signature to the sound but won't make the speaker better or worse than the sum total of the circuit & drivers.
Points taken and your approach seems sensible and pragmatic. I asked this question because you know that I have L810's and am following your thread with great interest. Will you be listing a record of the parts you intend to replace?
Keep up the great work, it is inspirational!