c34v power cord replacement

nbndtrain

Well-Known Member
What would you do in this situation? I called McIntosh parts and a replacement cord is pretty expensive at $60. The current cord actually works fine, but it needs to be fixed while it's out of rotation. I'll be recapping at the same time, so access shouldn't be an issue. Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1772.JPG
    IMG_1772.JPG
    23.8 KB · Views: 87
I have found at a local home improvement store (Menards) a heater rated cord. I cut off the appliance end and install.
 
I have found at a local home improvement store (Menards) a heater rated cord. I cut off the appliance end and install.
This is exactly what I did for my MC2200 amp. Found a <$10 workshop lamp at Lowes with a nice long cord, cut off the cord and threw out the lamp. A new plastic "cord holder" that fits in the chassis hole is a little harder to find. Luckily I had a small collection.
 
Thanks all. I'll find something at Home Depot. I am concerned about breaking/re-using the strain relief grommet. Any tips on removal?
 
No guarantees, but Lowes has a pretty good selection of odd hardware such as rubber grommets, etc. Much better than Home Depot. You might try there for a strain relief. Sorry I couldn't think of the correct name before. My mind went blank. Regarding the cord itself, I would try to get 16 gauge.
 
You can remove the strain relief with a pair of needle nose from inside the chassis. If you do this carefully and replace the cord with one of the same size you can reuse it.

Optionally, you could replace the plug end with a high quality replacement.
 
The part is called a Heyco Strain Relief. They can be had from most industrial distributors, i.e. Newark, Digi-Key, Allied and MSC. Heyco makes a special tool for removing and inserting them. Without this tool, the best way to remove it is as Harryconover mentions. However, I suggest the smallest size ignition plier that Channel Lock makes. Its the small one with the blue handles. Should be available at a local Menards, Lowes etc. Mark - McIntosh Service Center
 
Thanks everyone. I was able to get the strain relief off from the outside. It's definitely going to take some work to get a new cord in there. Looks like Amazon has a pair of black 6' 16# two prong extension cords for $8. I just put in an order for all new electrolytics, ps diodes and a couple of op-amps. Will start a new thread when I get to working on it.
 
The part is called a Heyco Strain Relief. They can be had from most industrial distributors, i.e. Newark, Digi-Key, Allied and MSC. Heyco makes a special tool for removing and inserting them. Without this tool, the best way to remove it is as Harryconover mentions. However, I suggest the smallest size ignition plier that Channel Lock makes. Its the small one with the blue handles. Should be available at a local Menards, Lowes etc. Mark - McIntosh Service Center
 

Boy ! I`m glad I bought mine 30 yrs ago, for IIRC for only $15.00 new, though my version is simpler in design, but thick gage in the metal construction !!
I had gotten tired of chewing up the strain relief`s with pliers, channel locks, & vise grips when replacing rotted/damaged power cords on older electronic equipment over the yrs.
But once you use the right tool, you`ll never want to use anything else in this application, IMHO/E.
 
i'm refurbishing my mc2105 and had to remove the power cord as part of the process; I had to cut the cord and tear the restraint out. I've done some research and determined that the correct replacement restraint is Hayco #1150. (I had to buy a lifetime supply - like 50). I'm also going to be doing work on two other vintage mac pieces.The mr71 cord is faulty, so that will be replaced. My c27 cord is probably OK, but I may replace it anyway - I'll have plenty of restraints. I see off-brand installation pliers available for $15 and the OEM tool for about $35. Questions: is it feasible (practicable) to install new restraints without a tool? If no, is it worth the extra $20 for the OEM tool?
 
Without the proper tool, as Mr. Mackie encourages above, usually the outside collar, and possibly the chassis paint around the entre area will most likely have the plyer teeth chewed marks from the attempt ! :oops:, :eek: =:mad:
 
I'm curious to know how you would use this tool to either remove an old strain relief or install a new one. I worked on two C34V's within the last year. Where the cord enters the unit there is only one to two inches of internal clearance. The cord makes almost an immediate right angle bend in a really tight space. Will this tool work at right angles to the cord? On the unit where I did change the cord I used a large pair of electrician's side cutters to gently squeeze the strain relief from the side. I used the side cutters again to squeeze the strain relief when pushing it back into the hole.
 
OK, so the consus is that the off-brand tool won't work and it's not possible to install a new restraint without a tool (without risking damage to the unit). I understand that there is more than one Heyco installation pliers. If so, is it clear which one to buy - like the 0022 R29 shown above. I noticed there is an R30 tool available as well.
 
Last edited:
I'm curious to know how you would use this tool to either remove an old strain relief or install a new one. I worked on two C34V's within the last year. Where the cord enters the unit there is only one to two inches of internal clearance. The cord makes almost an immediate right angle bend in a really tight space. Will this tool work at right angles to the cord? On the unit where I did change the cord I used a large pair of electrician's side cutters to gently squeeze the strain relief from the side. I used the side cutters again to squeeze the strain relief when pushing it back into the hole.

In the nearly 35yrs. I`ve owned mine, I have not encountered a strain relief that it was not able to remove, and replace..

Until I purchased the tool, I just used plyers, vise gripes, or channel locks, though I never remembering that I tried lineman plyers/side cutters ..

The last use of that tool I that I recall, was replacing my ~60 yr old MC 30`s rotting power cords, and replacing them with 14 gage modern grounded power cord with molded plug around 6 yrs ago.

When I rewired my Crown PSA 2 power amps to 240v in the early nineties, those original big ass power( ~ the diameter size of a quarter coin) cord`s strain reliefs were the most difficult, as my inexpensive tool`s handles were not as long as I desired for good leverage with my not large sized hand !!
 
No one answered my earlier C33/C34V question. Can this Hyco clamp go in at right angles to the wire so that it is basically being held parallel to the inside of the chassis wall?
 
No one answered my earlier C33/C34V question. Can this Hyco clamp go in at right angles to the wire so that it is basically being held parallel to the inside of the chassis wall?

I have no reason to deal with my C33`s power cord/clamp, but I went out and looked at the power cord clamp on the back of my C33 preamp, and I`m pretty sure, even with the chassis mounted fuse holder nearby that I could have enough room to squeeze the clamp enough to release it from the chassis to replace either the clamp or power cord since outside of the chassis is were this tool is used by compressing the larger outside of the clamp`s collar, while mildly pulling 1/4 " or so away from the chassis with the tool and releasing the compression so the clamp/power cord are now free of attachment to the chassis..

I hope this helps, jlovda
 
Back
Top Bottom