Diagnosis of issues with Pioneer SX-434 previously used in business installation

IcieOwner

New Member
Hello everyone,

I should preface this by saying that I am new here (really, new to home audio tech in general, being more of a musician). I'm hoping that this is the right forum to post in. It seems that it should be as the receiver is Pioneer and the question is about diagnosing; I did not see a specific sub-forum for diagnosis threads.


This afternoon, a store in our town was having their last day open before closing. I needed to find a receiver to power a pair of Klipsch KG4 speakers that I've had for a while. I believe that the old receiver had gone bad, but had no way to test whether or not the speakers or the receiver was the faulty part. I ended up buying the receiver that the store used to play radio stations through their in-ceiling speaker system. It is a Pioneer SX-434. It sounded fine there, clear and no static really. I knew that the display had gone out, but other than that there seemed to be no issues.

Upon bringing it home, I plugged it into a grounded power strip (same issues happen if plugged straight into an outlet) and connected it up to the speakers. Volume turned to zero, speakers connected to pair A's outputs with 16-gauge speaker wire. I turned it on, and there was a loud pop, and the woofers in *only* the left speaker moved a fair amount. Nothing in the right speaker. They emitted a loud hum, pretty low, like an air compressor's frequency I think. The radio signal was really weak, though I tested multiple channels that usually have no issue coming in at my location. I checked all the connections on both ends to make sure that something wasn't hooked up incorrectly or that something had come undone. Nothing happened. So I disconnected the left speaker, and turned on the system again with everything off and only the right speaker connected. Nothing happened. Turns out, no sound is going to the right speaker, even though to my knowledge it worked fine in the store (connected in stereo to wires going into the wall). No pops either. Both only happen in the left channel.

I disconnected the other speaker and plugged in headphones to the "Phones" jack on the front panel. The left side pops when the receiver is turned on. If I turn it off and on a few times, it pops only every three times or so. It's quite loud. The loud hum is also in the headphones, and it seems that the right channel is a little weaker than the left, but definitely outputting (but not making it to the connected speaker when connected). The hum is constant regardless of volume, even on the AUX and Phono channels (which have nothing connected). Nothing is connected to the receiver except for the headphones (or the speakers earlier). Hum ignores all controls.

Everything worked a few hours ago running the store's sound system.

From what I read around the web, it might need some sort of capacitor replacing (for popping I think). But I had no luck finding any information on a situation too similar to this. I have never repaired a receiver or a speaker and have minimal experience with electronics repair otherwise, so I apologize for amateur questions and any mis-used terminology. I believe I have represented what is going on accurately. I can provide more info if there are specifics that are needed.


Condensed issues:

a. Loud pop occurs every three times of power cycling it, always on first time after being left off, only in left channel.
b. Loud, deep/low hum (in both sides when using headphones) that is not affected by volume, eq, panning/balance, or channel (aux with nothing connected, etc).
c. Both occur with speakers, or headphones.
d. Right channel not sending to speaker, but works ok (a little softer but ok) in headphones.
e. Everything seemed to work when hooked up and running the store's ceiling installation, which it has run for a long time. It sounded and worked great.


Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas that they would be willing to help with?



Thank you,


-Max
 
Welcome Aboard!

Yes, this is the correct forum, although for more general, non-specific brand issues, similar queries could be posted in the Solid State forum.

To get directly to the issues, you may have discovered that the questionable speakers you have are indeed bad, or at least one of them could very well be bad.

It will be very helpful to have a multimeter to diagnose any of this. For now, let's not connect those questionable Klipsch speakers to anything else.

The pop you heard may have been a final output failing, and there may have been collateral damage. A constant hum at a constant level could be a power supply failure, potentially induced by an output failure, possibly caused by a shorted speaker. If you have access to a multimeter and are comfortable opening the case and checking some items, there are lots of members who can guide you. It would also be helpful to acquire a service manual for the unit, like the one found here: https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/pioneer/sx-434.shtml
 
You will need to register on hifiengine.com to access the manuals, free, easy and no risk or obligation.
If you decide to work on it you will also need a dim-bulb tester (DBT), easy to build, search on AK for instructions.
and Welcome to AK!

Don't power it up again without a DBT, you risk doing more damage . . .
 
You will need to register on hifiengine.com to access the manuals, free, easy and no risk or obligation.
If you decide to work on it you will also need a dim-bulb tester, easy to build, search on AK for instructions.
and Welcome to AK!

Thanks! I already have registered from when I was researching some old headphones a few months ago.
 
I wonder if they were only running the one channel for the ceiling speakers...

Someone else mentioned that to me. It's possible. I know they had both channels wired in to the system, but whether or not that went any further than the outputs I do not know. Also possible they may have been running it in mono mode. I know they had the pan/balance switch tilted a little to the right, maybe to compensate for the reduced volume?
 
Welcome Aboard!

Yes, this is the correct forum, although for more general, non-specific brand issues, similar queries could be posted in the Solid State forum.

To get directly to the issues, you may have discovered that the questionable speakers you have are indeed bad, or at least one of them could very well be bad.

It will be very helpful to have a multimeter to diagnose any of this. For now, let's not connect those questionable Klipsch speakers to anything else.

The pop you heard may have been a final output failing, and there may have been collateral damage. A constant hum at a constant level could be a power supply failure, potentially induced by an output failure, possibly caused by a shorted speaker. If you have access to a multimeter and are comfortable opening the case and checking some items, there are lots of members who can guide you. It would also be helpful to acquire a service manual for the unit, like the one found here: https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/pioneer/sx-434.shtml

Thanks! I have downloaded the manuals prior to posting. I do have a multimeter I can use and I have no issue opening it up, as long as I have an idea of what I'm looking for. :)

Thank you.
 
When you pop the hood on the 434, you should notice the four main output transistors attached to the main heat sink toward the rear of the unit. For reference, the transistors are Q22. Q20, Q21, and Q23, left to right as viewed from the front of the unit.

With the unit disconnected from power, no speakers or headphones connected, and your meter set on a resistance scale capable of reading at least 1,500Ω, measure the resistance between the tab on each transistor (collector) to the far right pin (emitter). Reverse the meter leads and measure again, in the opposite direction. One directions should measure around 100-150Ω, and the opposite direction should measure around 1,500Ω. If the readings are close to 0, there is a problem. It may be best to record the measurements are report your results. If your meter has a diode test function, it would be even better to use that and report the results.
 
When you pop the hood on the 434, you should notice the four main output transistors attached to the main heat sink toward the rear of the unit. For reference, the transistors are Q22. Q20, Q21, and Q23, left to right as viewed from the front of the unit.

With the unit disconnected from power, no speakers or headphones connected, and your meter set on a resistance scale capable of reading at least 1,500Ω, measure the resistance between the tab on each transistor (collector) to the far right pin (emitter). Reverse the meter leads and measure again, in the opposite direction. One directions should measure around 100-150Ω, and the opposite direction should measure around 1,500Ω. If the readings are close to 0, there is a problem. It may be best to record the measurements are report your results. If your meter has a diode test function, it would be even better to use that and report the results.

Ok. Do I need to open this another layer? I don’t seem to see the transistors. Sorry if I’m being an idiot.

FE6-C5-AC4-F9-C4-499-A-B730-7-C2-B023581-AC.jpg
 
You're not being an idiot. I neglected to point out that the bottom cover will need to be removed. It should be more apparent from that side.
 
You're not being an idiot. I neglected to point out that the bottom cover will need to be removed. It should be more apparent from that side.
Ok. Here's what I see from the bottom; did I misunderstand what you meant by bottom cover? Maybe I need to unscrew circuit boards? I'm afraid I have very little experience working on this sort of thing.

Thanks.

F036-A719-057-B-46-DF-B547-3-BF8143345-C5.jpg
 
My apologies. I was thinking it is a 424. Your output transistors are connected at the points indicated below:

SX-434OutputTransistorConnections.jpg
 
When you pop the hood on the 434, you should notice the four main output transistors attached to the main heat sink toward the rear of the unit. For reference, the transistors are Q22. Q20, Q21, and Q23, left to right as viewed from the front of the unit.

With the unit disconnected from power, no speakers or headphones connected, and your meter set on a resistance scale capable of reading at least 1,500Ω, measure the resistance between the tab on each transistor (collector) to the far right pin (emitter). Reverse the meter leads and measure again, in the opposite direction. One directions should measure around 100-150Ω, and the opposite direction should measure around 1,500Ω. If the readings are close to 0, there is a problem. It may be best to record the measurements are report your results. If your meter has a diode test function, it would be even better to use that and report the results.

Ok. Resistance set to 2000Ω setting. Connecting leads to the solder point at the top of the triangle and the one on the right side for each, then reversing leads, here are the results.

Left to right from front of unit.

Q22: 0, 575

Q20: 581, 1740

Q21: 599, 1960

Q23: 580, 0
 
Thank you for reporting the measurements. Does your meter have a diode test function? If so, test the same points and report the results.

Incidentally, according to the service manual and board artwork, the transistor numbering from left to right is marked as Q23, q21, q20, and Q22. If those correspond to your reported measurements, that would indicate a strange situation possibly involving the power supply. Can you verify those positions, please?
 
Thank you for reporting the measurements. Does your meter have a diode test function? If so, test the same points and report the results.

Incidentally, according to the service manual and board artwork, the transistor numbering from left to right is marked as Q23, q21, q20, and Q22. If those correspond to your reported measurements, that would indicate a strange situation possibly involving the power supply. Can you verify those positions, please?

I did not check the numbering myself, I just wrote what you had written in the earlier post for the order. Left to right, the four you circled, looking from the front bottom of the unit.

I'll see about a diode test.

Thanks.
 
Looks like on my multimeter the diode test symbol is at the same position as the 2000 Ohms setting I used to test and get the results above.
 
With the Diode test, the meter injects a small voltage across the probes. Does your meter have a selector or diode button on it. You may need to press it until the diode figure shows. It will read a voltage Drop between the probes, an open (O/L or out of limits), or a short 0.00V. We need to see a voltage drop one way, and an open the opposite way for a good transistor. Make sure the 434 is OFF and the pwr plug pulled from the wall.
 
Back
Top Bottom