DIY Stereo Cabinet - Stand

Using Epifanes Clear Varnish thinned 50/50 with mineral spirits, a lot of thin coats.
https://www.epifanes.com/page/clear-finishes
Here's a pic of my stain test board, sanded it after 9 thin coats of varnish and added a 10th coat today.
I'm after a glass smooth gloss finish, just about there, think 12 coats is likely to do the job.
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Very nice! If you dont mind I'd like to ask you a few questions about your finishing when I get home tomorrow. Can't right now because I dont want to ask using my phone.
 
Are you leveling each coat?
I always use 0000 steel wool before recoating, apply the 50/50 mix with a lint free cotton cloth, very thin coats.
I didn't sand it until I had 5 coats built up, even then had to be real careful not to sand through the varnish.
The next 4 coats were a bit thicker, sanded again after them, that's what's pictured, 9 coats, sanded and a fresh coat applied. There were still just a few low spots to take care of, couple more coats should do it, then final sand and last coat.
 
I always use 0000 steel wool before recoating, apply the 50/50 mix with a lint free cotton cloth, very thin coats.
I didn't sand it until I had 5 coats built up, even then had to be real careful not to sand through the varnish.
The next 4 coats were a bit thicker, sanded again after them, that's what's pictured, 9 coats, sanded and a fresh coat applied. There were still just a few low spots to take care of, couple more coats should do it, then final sand and last coat.
Hah .... you answered half dozen questions I had. how long between last coat and sanding?
 
Hah .... you answered half dozen questions I had. how long between last coat and sanding?
Minimum of 24 hours, even then the Epifanes doesn't sand well to start with, wants to roll the sanding dust into little long pieces, have to keep wiping them off very often or they load the paper and you get a mess real fast.
Once you have say 50% of the surface scuffed, it sands better, there's a definite knack to it. Epifanes is a very high oil slow drying varnish.
Below are the instructions I received from a person with Epifanes knowledge: I never got to the 80/20 mix he talks about, 66/34 is what I used for the last 4 coats. Pretty thick at 66/34, REAL thick straight from the can.

Epifanes is indeed the best spar varnish ever made. And expensive :)
A tip you already might know, I always cut Epifanes with mineral spirits and apply light coats with a lint free cloth, not a brush, slowly building layer upon layer. I start a 50/50 and work up to a 80/20, always with a light scuff between coats (i use '000' steal wool and '0000' for the last few coats). Yes, it takes a lot more time, usually 8 t0 11 coats to build a deep mirror finish, but it will be smooth and any little imperfections can be scuffed out and re-applied seamlessly.
I have no idea your skill level, but applying it 'uncut' requires great skill (and most likely an apprenticeship) to achieve a seamless smooth mirror surface Faster, yes, but brush strokes and dust imperfections are the bain of spar varnish.
I always used a fresh clean cloth for each application. I liked to use a cloth (scrap cotton shirt) about 15 by 15 inch and I would fold it in half to keep it manageable. Now for vertical surfaces, watch the drips. it's self leveling in horizontal, not vertical. I have experimented with a foam brush on vertical surfaces with great results, but hand rubbed was just easier.
 
Awesome job. You sir have skills.
Thank you for the compliment Wardsweb, this is a newly developed "skill" for me. When it comes to woodworking and Epifanes application, I'd say I understand the process well and have the required patience. To be honest, metal working and paint is my SOP.
 
a year plus 6 days between us, Jan 6th here

Oops ... I see the "ed" now. In my defense I work nights and got home at 3am. (smiling)

Soon I will be working on a turntable plinth and am vary interested in your method for applying a varnish. In as much as I want a smooth glass like finish I only want it thick enough to be smooth. I will be covering the plinth with a birds eye maple which can get quite expensive if I make a mistake. I've seen countless videos of various applications, but without witnessing it in person I have to admit it's difficult to decide what product and what technique is the best to achieve the results I'm looking for. So it's with that said I've been very interested in this part of your project. This is not forgetting to say that I also am very interested in the project itself. I've seen lots of DIY shelves and this is one of the best in terms if how your doing this, and what I predict it will look like when your finished.

The sanding with 4 ott Steel Wool is what really captured my attention as most vids I've seen use sand paper.
 
Oops ... I see the "ed" now. In my defense I work nights and got home at 3am. (smiling)

Soon I will be working on a turntable plinth and am vary interested in your method for applying a varnish. In as much as I want a smooth glass like finish I only want it thick enough to be smooth. I will be covering the plinth with a birds eye maple which can get quite expensive if I make a mistake. I've seen countless videos of various applications, but without witnessing it in person I have to admit it's difficult to decide what product and what technique is the best to achieve the results I'm looking for. So it's with that said I've been very interested in this part of your project. This is not forgetting to say that I also am very interested in the project itself. I've seen lots of DIY shelves and this is one of the best in terms if how your doing this, and what I predict it will look like when your finished.

The sanding with 4 ott Steel Wool is what really captured my attention as most vids I've seen use sand paper.

No defense needed here, I worked 11P to 7A for 10 years, know exactly where you're coming from. It's been 20 years since then and I still sleep what many would call weird hours
Steel wool between coats is done to help adhesion of next coat of finish and knock down any high spots, sanded with 400 grit after 5th and 9th coats to level surface and keep the buildup down to a minimum.
A very recent suggestion from a person that did French Polishing is to "rub out" the final coat for an even flatter and shiner surface.
He advises using 1500 or 2000 wet/dry sandpaper to flatten final coat, then buff with a light compound.
I have a small auto buffer and fine compound, need to pick up the sandpaper and try this process out on the test piece.
Stay tuned to this thread!

edit: love birds eye maple
 
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