Do I need to stain oiled walnut veneers on JBL cabinets ?

qguy

Super Member
Here is the scenario, top veneer, has some scratches, sides veneers has no scratches, If I sand the top veneer to the point where the scratches are gone, do I need to sand the sides to the same level to even out the color after applying oil finish or do I just do a light sanding on the sides and all is well ? Would staining the veneers be a good idea after sanding to even out color ?

EDIT : JBL l112
 
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Got photos?

Depends....are the top and sides the same look or is part badly faded?

I suggest doing as little sanding as possible. A green scrubbie pad might be all you need to take the scratches out of the finish. I would do top and sides the same so they match. I would try the Watco Danish Oil finish (medium walnut? dark walnut? maybe red mahogany?) though others will suggest the a version of original linseed oil finish. Lots of options...
 
Right now top and sides are of the same color. The top part would need more sanding as there are some deep scratches, the sides would require light sanding.
I do not have access to the Watco stuff, I do have Howards Restor a finish and linseed oil and Walnut stain somewhere in the garage

Wondering now if I can mix the Walnut stain to the linseed oil ???
 
- Don't sand the tops as long as they're just scratches and not blotchy.
- Get glass custom at the local hardware, cut to fit the tops
- Add felt pads to the corners of the glass and place on top of speakers
- Enjoy!

I think you'll find that most veneer is too thin to hold up to much sanding ...
 
I think you'll find that most veneer is too thin to hold up to much sanding ...

Depends on the model, which the OP didn't mention. The oak veneer on my L36 Decades is the thickest, hardest veneer I've even encountered. I started out hand sanding, but after working up a good sweat without making much progress, I switched to the random orbital palm sander.

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Of course, that's oak, not walnut, but the older JBLs used some really high quality veneer. The spaghetti wood stuff they introduced in the mid-1980s isn't nearly as robust.
 
Need pics of the tops and scratches or gouges. Having said that, consider steam heating the scratched veneer to raise up the grain of the scratches until they are level or just above the rest of the surface.

To do that, you need a good clothes iron, a few cotton wash cloths, and patience. Set the iron to a cotton setting, moisten (but not dripping wet) the towel and place over the scratch in question. Then lay/press the iron over the towel and hold for 10-15 seconds or so. Don't leave for any excessive time as you could burn the veneer, especially if the towel dries out. Done correctly, the compressed wood fibers in the scratch / gouges will absorb the steam, swell, and raise up. Multiple short passes are best to control the heating IME. Once you get the entire surface pretty level, a light block or orbital sanding is all you need to even the surface out. Be sure to let the entire veneer dry out for a day or two before applying any finish as the scratched areas may take up any stains differently than the surround surface.

After a good wipedown, you could use Howard RAF and then a light wax with Howard Feed N Wax, or the Watco Danish oil method, or the tried and true JBL Boiled linseed oil.

JBL VIntage speakers have pretty robust veneers that can be sanded, carefully. Most typical home veneer damage on JBL's will come out nicely with care. If really too far gone, most JBL's are easily reveneered.
 
Here is the scenario, top veneer, has some scratches, sides veneers has no scratches, If I sand the top veneer to the point where the scratches are gone, do I need to sand the sides to the same level to even out the color after applying oil finish or do I just do a light sanding on the sides and all is well ? Would staining the veneers be a good idea after sanding to even out color ?

EDIT : JBL l112
Howards Restore-a-Finish can hide a lot of sins, as well as rejuvenate an overall dull appearance. They have different colors available. IIRC, the only caveat is that you cannot apply urethane after using this product. Use their "Feed & Wax" product afterwards for added luster & protection.
I've used this combo on my L100's, 4311's as well as L166's. They all look beautiful.
 
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