problem in terms of getting a seamless transition, and a uniform radiating pattern. Especially if its not x overed to a small format mid/upper bass driver.
Mine does. 3" dome crosses to a 6.5" bass/mid cone at 700Hz. And both are made of the same lightweight material, which probably helps. I'm not disputing your point in any way. Rather, my particular speakers took your point into consideration, and seemed to do so successfully.
Sadly however, one of the 3" domes fell apart last week. Not from overdriving or overheating, the glue simply failed — voicecoil separated from dome, dome separated from magnet. Probably age, as they're nearing 40.
I'll have a go at rebuilding it but it ain't easy. A conventional
cone-mid is straightforward. But here the coil must attach to a very tiny lip inside the dome, only a .5mm surface to glue to. And of course it must be 100% precise or the coil will rub inside the magnet-gap. Even worse, about 2" of the coil wire was damaged, and I may have to splice a short length to replace it, not easy. On top of that, the VC-former is no longer perfectly circular, and it's a flimsy material, hard to form into a circle and hold the shape. And given the structure, all this has to be done inside the dome, invisibly. If I'm able to reattach VC to dome, I'll probably need a pro to glue it to the magnet, as I don't have a frequency generator to center it.
It's a classic driver, still available. But mine is V3 and the new ones are Version 48. So many changes the sounds won't match. So I'd have to replace both, which is costly. And I may not like the new ones — mine has a captivating expessiveness, while the new probably strives for neutrality/accuracy, as that's the trend today.
I'm new to this kind of work so any advice is not only gratefully but desperately welcomed.
Maybe this should be a separate thread?