Don't you hate it when your car thinks you've stolen it?

[AdamAnt316]

Hello everyone. I recently acquired a 2006 Honda Civic to replace my '02 lemon. When I got it, I went through the contents of the glove box to see what was included. It came with several manuals (which was a step up from the '02, which didn't include any), but it didn't come with the little business card which has the radio unlock code on it, and I wasn't too happy.

For those who haven't experienced this before, stock Honda audio systems have, for reasons known only to Honda, an anti-theft system. If the radio is removed, or if the battery dies/is disconnected, the radio will ask that a code be entered (usually via the preset buttons on the front) before the radio will start to work again. If the code is entered incorrectly too many times, the radio will lock up and refuse to take any more entry attempts.

This may have been a good feature back in the '90s, when Honda Accords regularly ranked among the most commonly stolen automobiles, but I rather doubt that there's much demand for stock Honda head units nowadays. Generally, the card with the code for the radio stays in the glove compartment, and sometimes it's even printed on a sticker behind the glove compartment itself. Not having that card/sticker means that you have to cross your fingers and hope that the battery never dies or has to be replaced (ha!).

Well, earlier this week, the inevitable happened. I left the dome light on in my car, and the next time I went to drive it, the battery was flat dead. After using my jumper pack to start the car, I noticed that the clock wasn't showing up on the radio display. Pressing the power button revealed the dreaded "ENTER CODE" message, which meant that I either had to drive around in silence, or find a way to get said code without taking the car to a 'stealership', where they'd probably charge me however much they thought I was worth to get said code.

Fortunately, a quick Google search revealed that there is an alternative. First, you use a 'secret' button combination on the radio (in the case of the style of head unit in my Civic, you hold buttons 1 and 6 as you press the power button) to reveal the head unit's serial number. Once that's done, you visit a page on Honda's website where, after entering the car's VIN number, your ZIP code, your phone number, and the head unit's S/N, they will provide you with a series of codes which may pertain to your head unit. In my case, they listed 14 possible codes, one of which couldn't possibly work since it contained numbers outside of the 1-6 range.

Armed with the list of codes, I went out to my car and started punching them into the head unit, One after one, I was greeted with the "ERROR CODE x" message as each code was rejected. After the tenth possible code was entered, I was greeted with the dreaded "ERROR CODE E", and it refused to take any more entries. Needless to say, I was rather upset at this, since they'd given me three more possible codes than I had entry chances.

Further research showed that disconnecting the battery or removing the fuse for the radio backup would clear this error; alternatively, leaving the head unit on for an hour or more while driving around might clear the error, and allow for more codes to be entered. I tried removing the radio fuse, but the fuses in this Civic are these teeny tiny half-size things which even my best pair of needlenose pliers couldn't coax from their inset sockets. Flabbergasted and cold, I gave up for the night.

The next morning, I decided to try again before heading off for work. After loading a boombox in the car as an alternative sound source should my attempts fail, I started the car and, for shits and giggles, hit the power button on the head unit. To my surprise, the display came up not as the expected "ERROR CODE E", but "ENTER CODE"! I got out my list of codes, and started punching in the remaining possibilities. The first one registered the usual error, but after trying the next-to-last possible code, I got a long *BEEP* and the head unit's greeting screen!

So at least they gave me a code that worked, but why did it have to be among 13 which didn't?! And why do modern cars have to assume that you're trying to steal them after something as simple as the battery going dead?! I'm not sure if it says something about our society, or auto manufacturers, or both, or neither. Anyways, apologies for the typical long rant; I just thought I'd get it out there.
-Adam

 

[John James]

I had the same problem on my 2003 Accord. The local dealer set me up and wrote the code on a card for me to keep, no charge.

 

[Dingman]

2001 GMC Truck - basically the same thing.

Thank goodness the home audio gear engineers didn't install similar theft deterrent systems. We'd have to have a whole 'nuther forum for unlock tricks and codes! Har!

 

[mshultz]

I had a1997 Pontiac Grand Am with that feature. I enabled it only because I was taking a graduate workshop in Akron. After I sold the car, I went back to the salesman and told him the code so that the next buyer would have it. Had I thought about it before I sold the car, I would have disabled the code.

Years later, I got a few calls from Rittman, which I did not answer. I do not know anybody in Rittman, and 99.44% of my phone calls are nuisance calls. I then received a letter. The new owner of the Grand Am had suffered an alternator failure which left the radio inoperable without the code. I called them that evening and gave them the code, which I still remembered.

When I rented a Dodge Caliber in Hays Kansas in 2012, every time I would use the key to open the door, the car alarm would go off. I had to open the door with the key fob.

My 2014 Toyota Tacoma does not have a chipped key, a key fob, or power door locks. I do not miss any of these features. In fact, it was great to go to the local locksmith and buy 2 spare keys without the thick plastic around the top of the key for a minimal price. I was always limited to 1 spare key with the chipped keys.

The Tacoma radios do not have an anti-theft feature, either. I upgraded the stock radio with a used Tacoma radio with HD, and then later with a used Tacoma radio with HD and navigation.

 

[Dingman]

Seems that Toyota engineers actually think about these things that could drive the customer crazy.

On that 2001 GMC truck, when I would work on it, I'd have to have the whole damn socket\wrench set out, as it's assembled with a wide variety of SAE and metric sizes. Drove me crazy, heck I found even indivdual parts, say with 4 bolts - 2 were SAE and the other two were metric. FFS.

Working on my Toyotas (granted, these were older, mid-80's) - I needed 3 sizes of metric. A 12mm, 14mm and 17mm. That's it. I blessed those Toyota engineers every time.

 

[gadget73]

I think Ford's method for radio security in the 90s was to make them so easy to steal that nobody would bother. They lock in there using a special tool, which you totally can't replicate with a wire coat hanger and remove the radio in seconds once you do.

Their 80s models required removing a bunch of trim panels to get to the screws that hold the radio in place.

 

[beat_truck]

As cheap and decent as aftermarket stereos are these days, I wouldn't even waste my time getting the security code for an older OEM radio. I just put a $60 Pioneer stereo from Wally World in our '05 Escape that had an OEM stereo with a dead CD player, and it is better than the OEM ever dreamed of being, and has more features like a USB port, AUX input and MP3 playback. For like $30 more, a lot of them have Bluetooth and interface with your phone, etc. (I didn't get one that did that stuff because I don't one a fancy phone.)

 

[gadget73]

I like the features of modern stereos, but I tend to hate the look. Older ones that had just a clock didn't bug me, the ones with the fancy dancing display that glows blue drives me up a wall.

 

[beat_truck]

Yeah, that's true. Most new radios tend to be ugly and gawdy looking. The one I put in is a little more basic looking than a lot of the ones I've seen for sale. At least it has a dimmer control to where it can be toned down and the dancing display BS can be turned completely off, thankfully.

 

[Shadowdog]

As for chipped keys the Provincial Gov't owns the only allowed Auto Insurance company here and they and other companies likely pressured the auto companies to have a better system, where you couldn't just smash
the ignition lock and drive away as they require aftermarket electronic systems on newer vehicles if they don't have it from the factory.

 

[sKiZo]

Just replaced the head unit in my '99 Olds Aurora - that's got the anti-theft feature, so it would be interesting to see what would happen if I tried plugging it to power.

Not that I ever see that happening - spoiled rotten with all that mp3, streaming, backup camera, and video goodness now ... <G>

Only thing this one didn't have was HD Radio, but it found my old tuner no sweat ...

 

[toxcrusadr]

Our Accords do that too. We wrote it in the back of our maintenance log book. It's the last 4 digits of 'Marconi's' phone number.

I found out my '95 Ford Ranger had an alarm system when it went off without warning one day.

 

[Wildcat]

Once that's done, you visit a page on Honda's website where, after entering the car's VIN number, your ZIP code, your phone number, and the head unit's S/N, they will provide you with a series of codes which may pertain to your head unit. In my case, they listed 14 possible codes, one of which couldn't possibly work since it contained numbers outside of the 1-6 range.

Odd. I've done this on our 2nd '09 CR-V and the '02 Accord. Both times, one code each, and they worked on the first try.

The only kicker here is that if the original head unit was replaced, even under warranty, and the VIN wasn't recorded, there was a possibility it couldn't be unlocked. It makes me wonder if yours was replaced under warranty by the original owner, and they listed the possible units that the codes would work for.

I think Ford's method for radio security in the 90s was to make them so easy to steal that nobody would bother. They lock in there using a special tool, which you totally can't replicate with a wire coat hanger and remove the radio in seconds once you do.

That was a joke with that crap can Merkur I owned. The POS in-dash cassette died in it after only a year of driving it, and that was exactly it--I found four small trim nails that fit the holes, and it slid right out.

I ended up replacing it with Sony's first in-dash CD player, the CDX-R7. That was a PITA to install since it had three parts to it--a smaller control box went up in the dash somewhere, and the tuner box I had to install under the seat. But I made it all work!

On that 2001 GMC truck, when I would work on it, I'd have to have the whole damn socket\wrench set out, as it's assembled with a wide variety of SAE and metric sizes. Drove me crazy, heck I found even indivdual parts, say with 4 bolts - 2 were SAE and the other two were metric. FFS.

Working on my Toyotas (granted, these were older, mid-80's) - I needed 3 sizes of metric. A 12mm, 14mm and 17mm. That's it. I blessed those Toyota engineers every time.

I find that with the Honda, it's 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm and 17mm, plus a Philips head driver and pliers (for some of the hose clamps). Basic stuff. And that's been the same from the '88 Accord up through the two '09s we have. Oh yeah, and a big effin' hammer, which I call The Persuader. Naturally there are a few specialist tools in there--the large socket for the front axles, joint pullers, plastic panel tools, etc. but that's true with any car.

Never understood the others' fascination with all these damned oddball bolts, nuts, etc..

I like the features of modern stereos, but I tend to hate the look.

Even the aftermarket units are too flashy and plasticky looking. I have a JVC in my ancient '97, and a cheaper Pioneer in the '04, which has the added bonus of having an unreadable display on it. You'd think they would clean these up and use plain old readable LCD panels with the black digits. The user interface of most in-dash units is a big failure.

I'm glad I went with the Pioneer 4400NEX in my '09--it's a touchscreen, so there is nothing but a plastic border around it all. Considering a 2330NEX for the other '09--same series but slightly newer model. Looks good in the dash. I really liked the looks of the OEM radio, and I have to say the radio reception on the OEM radio still beats the Pioneer by a long shot. (I don't know who made this head unit for Honda--they have historically used Alpine and Matsushita.)

 

[N8Nagel]

I like the features of modern stereos, but I tend to hate the look. Older ones that had just a clock didn't bug me, the ones with the fancy dancing display that glows blue drives me up a wall.

I bought an aftermarket JVC "Arsenal" something or other head unit maybe 5-6 years ago and it offers you different colors for the display. So I set it to orange and green to match the gauges. Only thing I don't like is that it doesn't dim dark enough when the headlights are on (yeah, that's adjustable too, but I like to keep my gauges dim to preserve my night vision.)

 

[Dingman]

Wildcat is correct, I did forget to mention the big assed socket I had to buy for the front hubs on that Toyota. I think it was 32 or 31 MM.

 

[AdamAnt316]

As cheap and decent as aftermarket stereos are these days, I wouldn't even waste my time getting the security code for an older OEM radio. I just put a $60 Pioneer stereo from Wally World in our '05 Escape that had an OEM stereo with a dead CD player, and it is better than the OEM ever dreamed of being, and has more features like a USB port, AUX input and MP3 playback. For like $30 more, a lot of them have Bluetooth and interface with your phone, etc. (I didn't get one that did that stuff because I don't one a fancy phone.)

I wish I had that option with my '06 Civic. My '02 Civic had a standard DIN slot into which a typical aftermarket stereo could be installed, but the head unit in the '06 is within an oddball-sized plate which also integrates the HVAC controls. I wouldn't be entirely surprised if there's a way to install an aftermarket stereo in these cars, but it's probably complicated and expensive.

I like the features of modern stereos, but I tend to hate the look. Older ones that had just a clock didn't bug me, the ones with the fancy dancing display that glows blue drives me up a wall.

Yeah, most of the modern stereos I've seen are pretty ugly. The Sony head unit I put in my old car wasn't too bad (once you disabled demo mode, anyway), as it was just red and white, but I've seen some which are quite garish. The only issue with the Sony was that it was hard to read in direct sunlight, and the Honda harness connector didn't support the dimming feature, so the display stayed the same brightness unless I fought with the menu system, which I wasn't about to do if I was driving.

Odd. I've done this on our 2nd '09 CR-V and the '02 Accord. Both times, one code each, and they worked on the first try.

The only kicker here is that if the original head unit was replaced, even under warranty, and the VIN wasn't recorded, there was a possibility it couldn't be unlocked. It makes me wonder if yours was replaced under warranty by the original owner, and they listed the possible units that the codes would work for.

The impression I got from the forum posts I found related to the subject was that getting multiple code results from that site was normal. Whether or not getting 14 code results is normal, I have no idea, but it's what they gave me. I'm pretty sure that the head unit in my car has been there a long time, as the H/M/R clock setting markings on the preset buttons are pretty worn out.
-Adam

 

[gadget73]

The Sony that is currently in my Mark VII is old enough that they hadn't gotten too garish, but the damn thing beeps every time you touch a button, and plays this little beepy tune when it gets shut off. Its really annoying. I have a mid 90s Lincoln tape deck to put back in there.

 

[AdamAnt316]

When I rented a Dodge Caliber in Hays Kansas in 2012, every time I would use the key to open the door, the car alarm would go off. I had to open the door with the key fob.

The problem goes farther back than that, I think. Our old 1996 Chrysler Concorde had similar issues. My mother accidentally locked her keys in the car, and had to call AAA to get it open. Once they did, the alarm honked the horn repeatedly until she found the keys, and then hit the unlock button on the key fob remote.

Both of my Honda Civics didn't have stock alarms per se (my '02 had one added by a previous owner, which was annoying to deal with since it didn't come with a remote), but it does have a "PANIC" button on the key fob, which can be a pain in the ass if it accidentally gets triggered (I actually put a plastic cover over said button on one of my remotes). Last month, I locked my car before going to a flea market, but also managed to leave my headlights on. When I went outside to start it, it failed to start, and I soon started hearing repeated muted honking sounds even though I had the chipped key in the ignition. I opened the hood, connected my trusty jumper pack to the battery, and got a full-strength *HONK!* right in my ear. I quickly hit the 'unlock' button on the key fob, and it shut up.
-Adam

 

[mhardy6647]

One free tip, Adam (and worth every cent) -- a dental pick (of the dental hygienist torture kit kind) makes a dandy fuse extractor... especially when survival of the to-be-extracted fuse is not 100.0% necessary.
(actually, with care, even the fuse survival can usually be achieved)

If you don't have a surplus dental pick -- I'll bring one for you to Radio XLIX.

 

[N8Nagel]

One free tip, Adam (and worth every cent) -- a dental pick (of the dental hygienist torture kit kind) makes a dandy fuse extractor... especially when survival of the to-be-extracted fuse is not 100.0% necessary.
(actually, with care, even the fuse survival can usually be achieved)

If you don't have a surplus dental pick -- I'll bring one for you to Radio XLIX.

Is there an inexpensive source for these? I'd love to have a set but medical stuff is usually $$$$