ELAC Miracord TT -share all about 'em
- Thread starter illinoisteve
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likebike23
Addicted Member
I like the Benjamin plinth, but would take into consideration the condition of the dust cover when choosing. The better cosmetic combination would win.
likebike23
Addicted Member
I found a moment last night to work on my 10H. I basically gave it a full relube (motor, platter bearing, cam, speed selector, etc.). I also took off the Elac cart for now as I didn't trust the stylus and installed a Shure M44E with a new EVG stylus I had hanging around. I think the Shure is a good match for this table, sounds good and plugged right in seamlessly.
It was a bit of a challenge compared to my 40A, but I made it through without any snags thank God. Anyone notice that the platter bearings are tiny, what's up with that?
It was a bit of a challenge compared to my 40A, but I made it through without any snags thank God. Anyone notice that the platter bearings are tiny, what's up with that?
MtnBeachBum
Active Member
Hello all. I was wondering if anyone here could help me figure out how to fix a problem with my 50h. It’s sounding fantastic except for a few issues. When arm lowers stylus on record and stylus hits lead in groove the stylus and arm are jerked over instead of gently tracking to start of track. It happens on all records, so it’s not a bad record. The table is d.o.b. Level in all directions. I don’t use the anti-skate so that can’t be the problem. I am using a lp gear stylus but it does the same with the genuine stylus that came with the Shure v15 ii. If it’s a possible cleaning/ lubrication issue what specifically should i reclean/ relube that would fix this? I have a short iphone video clip that shows this but it says file too large.
likebike23
Addicted Member
Maybe you could adjust the set down position more inward. Sounds like the stylus is hitting the lip of the lead in groove.
johnjhazel
PhxJohn
Without any antiskate, the tonearm will go towards the spindle until it 'catches' the groove.
malden
Addicted Member
Does this happen when using the automatic start or when cuing manually ? ....or both ?
MtnBeachBum
Active Member
What an informative nutty trip down the Elac hole that was. First i dialed in the anti-skate, no change. Then i tried manual vs auto, same either way. Then i adjusted the set down ever farther inward. To begin with, before adjusting set down was in middle between outer edge of record and grooves. I adjusted further towards grooves until I got it where it would place stylus down and the music would start all without the jerking. This ended up being 3/4 of a turn from starting screw position. Then the problems started.
The arm wouldn’t set down completely on tonearm rest. The slot under arm wasn’t lining up with protrusion on rest. If you forced it on rest it created pressure which resulted in arm rocketing up when you pressed 12” to start. It was binding and then released violently. So i had to work screw back clockwise until it lined up and sat down properly. I ended up 1/4 turn counterclockwise from original position.
So I guess that’s as good as I can get it as far as adjusting set down. I did notice that the jerking of the stylus is immediately preceded by the final clicking noise of the mechanism. I hear the last click and then the stylus and arm is moved over. I’m not an expert on the mechanism but it seems that last click is triggering an arm or something that then grabs tonearm? To begin play. If i can figure out which arm/ lever is involved maybe recleaning and relubricating would help.
I will wait to go under the hood until I get the 500,000 wt silicone oil to redampen cueing mechanism.
The arm wouldn’t set down completely on tonearm rest. The slot under arm wasn’t lining up with protrusion on rest. If you forced it on rest it created pressure which resulted in arm rocketing up when you pressed 12” to start. It was binding and then released violently. So i had to work screw back clockwise until it lined up and sat down properly. I ended up 1/4 turn counterclockwise from original position.
So I guess that’s as good as I can get it as far as adjusting set down. I did notice that the jerking of the stylus is immediately preceded by the final clicking noise of the mechanism. I hear the last click and then the stylus and arm is moved over. I’m not an expert on the mechanism but it seems that last click is triggering an arm or something that then grabs tonearm? To begin play. If i can figure out which arm/ lever is involved maybe recleaning and relubricating would help.
I will wait to go under the hood until I get the 500,000 wt silicone oil to redampen cueing mechanism.
MtnBeachBum
Active Member
Haven't found anything obvious yet that would explain this behavior. I have decided to just live with it. Still love the table.
Just a guess - It might be that the mechanism that keeps the arm from drifting doesn't disengage quickly enough, so before the arm can move freely, the stylus/cantilever are being pulled inward by the groove, and then when it releases, the arm catches up.
Possible that slowing the descent with silicone in the cueing will obviate the problem.
Possible that slowing the descent with silicone in the cueing will obviate the problem.
MtnBeachBum
Active Member
I'll give that a look, thanks.
K CarsonNew Member
Messages:
3
I have an Elac Miracord 50H that was my dad's. He purchased it while in the service in the late '60's I believe. I have recently come into possession of it. I can only get sound out of the right side when I connect it to my stereo. I replaced the RCA connectors as they were original. But, I still only got sound out of one side. I began looking at the cartridge and the connections seem fine. I switched the leads in the cartridge (left signal and ground onto right signal and ground posts and vice versa). I still only got sound out of the right side! If I connect the left signal and ground to the right side posts and leave the right side wires disconnected, I get no sound at all. If I connect the right side signal and ground to the left side posts, I get sound out of the right side. To me, this means that both sides are sending signal out of the cartridge, but the arm is only getting signal from the right. I noticed that in the arm, (5 contacts for R, R ground, ground, L, L ground) there is a small wire connecting the center ground to the right signal. There is no such wire from the ground to the left signal contact. I know this is really bad, but I touched the right signal contact in the arm with a conductor. I got hum in the right speaker. If I do the same thing on the left, I get no such hum. Is this record player (original Shure and M55E needle and cartridge) supposed to be mono? Or, is there some sort of connection in the arm that is missing?
Messages:
3
I have an Elac Miracord 50H that was my dad's. He purchased it while in the service in the late '60's I believe. I have recently come into possession of it. I can only get sound out of the right side when I connect it to my stereo. I replaced the RCA connectors as they were original. But, I still only got sound out of one side. I began looking at the cartridge and the connections seem fine. I switched the leads in the cartridge (left signal and ground onto right signal and ground posts and vice versa). I still only got sound out of the right side! If I connect the left signal and ground to the right side posts and leave the right side wires disconnected, I get no sound at all. If I connect the right side signal and ground to the left side posts, I get sound out of the right side. To me, this means that both sides are sending signal out of the cartridge, but the arm is only getting signal from the right. I noticed that in the arm, (5 contacts for R, R ground, ground, L, L ground) there is a small wire connecting the center ground to the right signal. There is no such wire from the ground to the left signal contact. I know this is really bad, but I touched the right signal contact in the arm with a conductor. I got hum in the right speaker. If I do the same thing on the left, I get no such hum. Is this record player (original Shure and M55E needle and cartridge) supposed to be mono? Or, is there some sort of connection in the arm that is missing?
likebike23
Addicted Member
Lots of times channel dropout is a result of poor contact at the sled/arm connections. I've had issues on Duals of course, but also BSR and Technics tables. Try cleaning the contacts with an eraser. You could also clean the cartridge pins for good measure.
If you have a decent continuity tester, you should be able to trace the path of each of the four wires from the cartridge out through the RCA's. Like previously mentioned, there is probably a break or a bad contact point somewhere in the path of your left channel.
Assuming he has 4 wires, then I agree. The problem can likely be the contacts in the headshell. It is not likely that there is a break in the wire itself. That kind of problem is very infrequent.
Thanks all for the quick responses! Great community here with too much information...
Four wires. Blue, Yellow, Red, and Green for the signals and grounds. I cleaned the contacts on the cartridge as they were easy to get to...lol. I bent them up a bit to be sure they were making good contact. They're nice and shiny. Still no joy out of the left. I'll grab my meter and test for continuity. While wire breaks are rare, maybe a solder connection has broken inside so I'll look. Couldn't hurt. Getting to the contacts inside the headshell will be a little trickier as I don't know how to get the arm off the unit. Heck, I can't even get the table out of the wooden base (I think that's the plinth? Sorry, still a little new to this stuff...).
Four wires. Blue, Yellow, Red, and Green for the signals and grounds. I cleaned the contacts on the cartridge as they were easy to get to...lol. I bent them up a bit to be sure they were making good contact. They're nice and shiny. Still no joy out of the left. I'll grab my meter and test for continuity. While wire breaks are rare, maybe a solder connection has broken inside so I'll look. Couldn't hurt. Getting to the contacts inside the headshell will be a little trickier as I don't know how to get the arm off the unit. Heck, I can't even get the table out of the wooden base (I think that's the plinth? Sorry, still a little new to this stuff...).
Have you confirmed the integrity of your interconnect (patch) cords? That's often the weak point of these old German tt's. Your 50H also has a microswitch in line with the signal flow. It's function is to disconnect the tonearm while table is cycling to prevent noise transmission into the preamp/amp. As this switches very miniscule signals, any tarnish or crud, however small, will cause problems. to remove from the base (plinth), lift platter. 2 screws under it at approx.11 & 5 o'clock.
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The multimeter is your friend in determining continuity of each wire from end-to-end. I'm confident that you will chase it down with diligence. If you have already limited it to only one of the wires - even better. Catmanboo is right in that the patch cords (and also the headshell sled contacts) are sources of problems on Dual and perhaps Miracords too.
likebike23
Addicted Member
Do not take the arm off the unit. The end of the arm where the cartridge is slides out with the cart still attached. On my 40A there are vertical lines molded into the headshell for better grip when pulling it out. Lock down the arm, grasp the sides of the headshell and gently pull it out. The arm remains on the turntable with an empty front end.
As for getting the table out of the plinth, it's pretty standard stuff. My 40A and 10H just lift right out. I'm not sure of your 50, but would recommend you download the manuals from vinylengine. The owners manual should describe the headshell removal, the removal of the platter, and removal of the machine from the plinth.
As for getting the table out of the plinth, it's pretty standard stuff. My 40A and 10H just lift right out. I'm not sure of your 50, but would recommend you download the manuals from vinylengine. The owners manual should describe the headshell removal, the removal of the platter, and removal of the machine from the plinth.
