Empire 698: Is it repairable

[Felipe Facó]

Hello, Setevik1983!

I have a similar problem with my Empire 698. The plastic cylinder cracked, and the shell got loose. I'm needing exactly some of those pieces that you printed in 3D. Could you share the STL files? I think that would solve my problem.

 

[Jeffery]

That was me, I'm pretty sure. I did mine about 7 years or so ago.

I did mine, too. I have to use a light cartridge/headshell combo to keep the stock counter weight, and the lock nut is right up against the tonearm support when at rest, but it worked out great. I'm using an AT-120e w/150mlx stylus on it now, I think this was an AT 95 of some sort.

 

[jchrist]

I did mine, too. I have to use a light cartridge/headshell combo to keep the stock counter weight, and the lock nut is right up against the tonearm support when at rest, but it worked out great. I'm using an AT-120e w/150mlx stylus on it now, I think this was an AT 95 of some sort.

Nice! You're the only other person I have ever seen do this mod. I was able to convert my old empire 698 headshell to fit.

 

[Jeffery]

Nice! You're the only other person I have ever seen do this mod. I was able to convert my old empire 698 headshell to fit.

Yeah, in theory the SME-style bayonet socket would allow me to use different headshell/cartridge combos, but that Sansui is the only one I have light enough to really use and lighter headshells are expensive. But I really like the cart/stylus combo on it now, so no need to do a lot of swapping - I wish it didn't say Sansui.

By far the hardest part was getting new tonearm wires through the tube/pivot, but it's done now and should be good to go from now on out.

 

[setevik1983]

Hello, Setevik1983!

I have a similar problem with my Empire 698. The plastic cylinder cracked, and the shell got loose. I'm needing exactly some of those pieces that you printed in 3D. Could you share the STL files? I think that would solve my problem.

At the moment, I'm waiting for the finish of the 3D printing corrected parts. Test print revealed several errors.

 

[setevik1983]

For convenience and functionality is best to use the SME connector. But for audio collectors important original parts.

 

[Jeffery]

Yeah, I was really torn over cutting the end off the tonearm of a very nice 698, but I tried for a several months to find a functional 698 tonearm before tossing in the towel. But this way I got to retain the stock arm rest as well as the cue feature that still works very well.

No turning back now!

 

[Felipe Facó]

At the moment, I'm waiting for the finish of the 3D printing corrected parts. Test print revealed several errors.

Great! When it's ready, it will be a gift. A solution to a recurring problem with this turntable. I'll be waiting and following your advance.

 

[setevik1983]

I completed 3D printing and install on the tonearm.

Finaling version, i dont want to spend my time amy more.

 

[Felipe Facó]

Congratulations! It looks perfect! Could you share the STL files? I need especially the files related to the first picture (the arm connector).

 

[dobyman]

FANTASTIC!!!

 

[crazycrawler]

Congratulations! It looks perfect! Could you share the STL files? I need especially the files related to the first picture (the arm connector).

 

[crazycrawler]

Hello, anyone have "stl" files to 3d print headshell and tonearm mount components for a Empire 698 turntable? Thanks, Ed

 

[jchrist]

I'm curious how his headshell mount design works. Its different than the original Empire. I'm also not sure how you would insert the copper cartridge contacts.

 

[Tontaube80]

Hi all.

I spent a lot of time and made three often breakable parts.

I'll do a test print on a 3D printer, soon.

Hi setevik1983,

your printed parts look marvelous! I'm wondering if you could share the STL file of pic2 or maybe sell me a printed part. I have the same problem with an Empire 698 - the connecting mount between arm and Headshell broke where the little splint is sitting. Sorry for my bad English. Do you think there is a possibility to get in touch? A friendly sound specialist suggested to make a new drill hole on the upper part of the arm and fix the broken part with it. I would prefer to leave it original, but... Thanks for any help!

 

[Tontaube80]

Only for those who might have the same problem with the broken mount. In my case, the mount broke exactly where the little splint is sitting on the lower side of the tone arm - so I had a bit of plastic left. A friend drilled a new hole from the arms upper side (1mm from the fag-end) into the broken plastic mount and inserted the splint from the top. The screw doesn't care where the splint is located and it worked out really good. For the drilling you'll need a calm hand, I guess, but give it a try. You don't see anything of the work, as the clamp covers the changes. I don't know, if it will last for long, so I'm really curious, if it's possible to print this part via 3D printing. Any news from setevik1983?

 

[master_fo]

I completed 3D printing and install on the tonearm.

Finaling version, i dont want to spend my time amy more.
View attachment 906860 View attachment 906860 View attachment 906861 View attachment 906862 View attachment 906863

Can you please share 3D printing files? I would love to have a spare for the tonearm connector - and especially the headshell.

 

[doug s.]

excellent - please provide details as to what it takes to install the standard headshell mount into the tonearm.

thanks,

doug s,
empire 398 and 498, daughter has a 598.
maybe a 698 in my future?

I did mine, too. I have to use a light cartridge/headshell combo to keep the stock counter weight, and the lock nut is right up against the tonearm support when at rest, but it worked out great. I'm using an AT-120e w/150mlx stylus on it now, I think this was an AT 95 of some sort.

 

[Jeffery]

It's been a while, seems like I documented it someplace. I bought a little straight tonearm tube, I think it was a DJ item, to use for the SME socket donor. Got the lengths kinda worked out and cut the 698 arm off and JB welded the SME socket in there, running new wires - the 698 had just varnish coated wires that were rendered too short once I cut the Empire arm off. I know I have the pics saved of the process, I'll see if I can find the posts with the narrative.

I did have to run a ground wire from the new RCA block to the arm itself, but it's quiet now and all the Empire que functions still work fine, the geometry worked great - I don't remember which of Conrad's alignments I used but remember being very happy with hitting the spots. And as mentioned, a light headshell is needed to keep the stock counter weight. The Empire shell is really light, the SME socket adds weight right on the end so it's pretty crucial to keep it light.

But all said, in the end, it worked out great. It's a nice turntable able to run a variety of modern cartridges, looks great to boot - it's the only other table that gets to hang in the living room.

 

[Jeffery]

OK, donor arm was a straight Numark, the SME socket is just held in with a single screw and it was cheap, ~$20 back then.


Tape is where I made the first cut


Here's what the stock wires look like, I re-wired it with Cardas wire and that was far and away the hardest part. The wires have to pass through a tiny hole in the arm right at the pivot point, making that curve without damaging the arm or wires and getting it all back together was a chore. I think I remember having to drill out a little plastic bushing to a slightly larger size where the wires exit the bottom of the arm, even the tiny Cardas wires are a lot bigger than the bare coated wires in the arm.



Here's the first cut location - too long, no chance of hitting the geometry



Final location. It's very close to not working. The SME socket has to be engaged to clear the rest, and it's very close to the first bend in the arm. I used JB Weld to glue the socket into the tonearm - it was a little loose so I wrapped a single layer of that shiny aluminum HVAC duct tape (not old gray "duct tape") around the socket stub before gluing it in.



All together


I got rid of the Empire 5 connector plug and installed RCA jacks, I made this little cover and installed the jacks in it.



I put that where the power cable was located, put a new IEC socket on the far side and also moved a power choke (little gold object now seen just under the new power socket) to the other side to try to get the power away from the signal side


That's about it. It was quite an undertaking, especially those new wires. I would just make sure you are absolutely committed to potentially ruining the tonearm if something goes wrong. But I had a really nice example of a 698 that was toast without a headshell, the cuing and lights all operate perfectly and I didn't see keeping that if I had to replace the entire arm. Plus with the cover, I wasn't sure I could get another arm under there and still keep the cover - I was committed to making it work and was lucky enough to pull it off. At no point in the conversion was I 100% certain it'd be successful until I was done.