Faceplate reprinting?

RS Steve

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Has anyone found a person or company that can reprint old Fisher faceplates? I was hoping I could save the lettering on this X-202 but there is a lot of corrosion that already has ruined some lettering and much more that will get damaged polishing. I have had good luck on my other units, but this has what almost seems like rust scale. It doesn't want to just polish off.

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Steve;

Yes, that faceplate is made of brass, which does indeed corrode. I had to deal with the same issue on the faceplate of the 202-R tuner I restored. I was just lucky that it was not as bad as this one is. There are some companies that will do aluminum faceplates and letter them for you which is probably the best way to go. I don't have their information right now. I will do some checking and report back.

Joe
 
Wasn't there a gentleman on here a year or two back who was setting up to restore the early 60s brass & anodized faceplates? My 400cx2 and I would be interested!
 
Agreed. This would be an absolutely invaluable service.
I have at least one old amp in need of it now.
 
Front Plate Express is the one that can make it out aluminum and print whatever you specify on your design. You download their CAD interface and design your faceplate and upload to them.
They also work with your material. Contact them and see if they can brush and re-print it for you. Would be interesting to know their answer.
 
Would it be possible to print lettering on a clear overlay with adhesive back, then set that on top of the cleaned face plate? You could even start with a photo of the existing panel and clean up the lettering via computer before printing.
 
Would it be possible to print lettering on a clear overlay with adhesive back, then set that on top of the cleaned face plate? You could even start with a photo of the existing panel and clean up the lettering via computer before printing.

That's a cool idea, which also offers the additional advantage of protecting the faceplate thereafter.

Grindfix, is this the one you mean? http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/
 
I also have another X202 with clean face to use as a template if need be.

Steve--
Why not try engraving shops? Since you have a nice faceplate to use as a template. I'm sure they can copy it and laser engrave. We have a local shop that does that type of work. Google for local athletic trophy engraving.
 
I started down the path to doing this. These are what I figured out:

To do it right the big challenge is the art work. You need a vector graphic file with the right font (Futura), line weights, markings etc. I found a guy who could do the artwork-get it scaled, spaced correctly etc - just never worked out what he wanted to do the job. He's next door to me so I could easily start the talks back up. Once you have the artwork you can get a screen made - like silk screen, but the harder screen type like they use for screening on PCBs. (Once you get the graphics file done you could use it with an engraver, to make decals or T shirts or whatever you could want.) There is an AKer in my area with a machine shop who could/would probably help with the screening.

The smaller challenge is the faceplate itself. It needs to be plated in a finish that matches the original brass plating. I have several pieces with this type of faceplate and it is brass plating over steel on them. I've sanded an edge down to bright silver steel. The shape of these faceplates is like a shoebox lid. Some guys say they have solid brass examples of this faceplate type, but I don't have one.

Once you have both a correct screen and a refinished faceplate you need to find a paint to screen onto the faceplate that's the right color and adheres aggressively to the brass. And then probably clear coat in a semigloss.

If we could figure all these variables out on one we could do the early x100, X101st, x202, 202T, 100T, 400 and 400A versions of the preamp line, 500s and ta600 and several models of tuner with the same process. There would even be a lot of efficiency in getting the graphics done for these because they are all variations on the theme, with many elements (volume markings for example) common to all, and the same brass replating on the faceplate should work for all.

Engraving could work but you still need that graphics file to tell the engraving head where to go and at the end of a serious undertaking you have a neat, but not original faceplate.

I talked to Front panel express. They could do the engraving but they only do engraving on aluminum and their anodize colors don't include an aged brass AND the edges of a faceplate they make would be unfinished aluminum. Also they have a fixed font library that doesn't include Futura. Once again you need the graphics file.

Anyway - anyone want to help me head down this path?
 
Sounds like staining on Steve’s Faceplate is due to steel corroding under brass plating then. No?
 
Sounds like staining on Steve’s Faceplate is due to steel corroding under brass plating then. No?
That's what I'm thinking, it's totally different than the corrosion on my other X-202's I have polished. I might just leave it be and deal with this after getting the internals restored.
 
It may be hard to find someone to do the job, but a flatbed digital printer would be another good option. Less setup than screen printing. UV-cured ink is what you’d want. Call around to some sign shops and see who could do it. Still need vector artwork.
 
Steve; Check with Vendo81. He did something like what you want last year or so. Had a guy lined up and all, but it petered out I think. He would probably have all the info you need in one shot.
 
Great minds think alike, Mr Derouin. I was just looking through my old AK emails to locate the name of the chap I'd been speaking with about his faceplate fabrication efforts, and his AK name is Vendo81...
 
is it brass or brass-plated steel? The face on my good TA-600 is brass, the console pull parts hulk is plated steel. The brass one polished up nice, the steel one is an absolute wreck that is beyond help. The all-brass one has the lettering engraved in it, so polishing isn't a problem at all. The markings are recessed enough that there is little chance of polishing them down.

I suspect if you have one reproduced, it would be easier to just do it out of brass sheet rather than trying to replicate the plating process.
 
is it brass or brass-plated steel? The face on my good TA-600 is brass, the console pull parts hulk is plated steel. The brass one polished up nice, the steel one is an absolute wreck that is beyond help. The all-brass one has the lettering engraved in it, so polishing isn't a problem at all. The markings are recessed enough that there is little chance of polishing them down.
I will investigate further, but it seems like this is brass plated since it does not polish like the others I have had. I will scratch the rear and see what it shows.
 
Must be copper plated, most certainly a shiny white metal underneath which is probably steel. 1960 vintage, 10 months older than I am!

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Other options I've heard about but haven't tried--that only require bitmap graphics, not vector.

1. Laser printer transfer. Scan the art, clean it up in a graphics program. Print a reverse image. Lay the laser printed paper on the face and use mineral spirits to transfer.

2. Scan the art. Clean it up on graphics program. Buy laser printer decal sheet and transfer to face plate.
Radiodaze.com will make a custom decal for you, for a one off, it's somewhat expensive but not prohibitively so.

A local plating shop should be able to restore the brass finish. You could also buy a sheet of brushed brass, drill and file to match, and attach it with contact cement to reface... then proceed with the above options.
 
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