"First reflection"...what it means, why it's important, how to find it

tomlinmgt

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There's a lot of talk in the hobby about "first reflection" (also often referred to as "early reflection") when discussing room acoustics and acoustic treatments. Getting a grasp of this fundamental acoustic concept is the best place to get started when considering the implementation of acoustic treatments for your listening space. Though acoustic treatments are certainly not a "cure-all", in most every case (when done properly) they will provide a noticeable improvement in the sonic performance of your system. I'd like to offer a simplified tutorial that explains the concept as the improvements I've realized through the appropriate use of proper acoustic treatments has been nothing short of profound and I now consider room acoustics (and to a slightly lesser degree, speaker/listener positioning) the most important factor in the performance of any audio rig.

In a nutshell, first reflection is the location on the side walls, ceiling, front wall (wall behind speakers), floor and rear wall of the listening space where the sound waves from the speakers reflect and create the shortest indirect path to your ears. Think of it like a bank shot in billiards where the speaker is the point where the ball starts and your listening position is the pocket. That point on the rail where the ball must make contact so it goes into the pocket is the early reflection location.

Why is it important? Because these reflected sound waves reach your ears within fractions of a second after the direct sound wave from the speakers, the result will be the development of an echo that will detract from your ability to hear and discern the sonic content contained in the direct sound wave clearly and accurately. The consequence of this typically manifests in the form of poor/shifted imaging, blurred sound stage resolution and generally poor overall fidelity. You don't actually hear it as an echo the way you hear an echo in a big auditorium, canyon, tunnel, etc., but it's enough to play hell with your speaker's sonic capabilities and your ability to perceive the content in the recording accurately. And keep in mind the sound waves don't necessarily stop once they reach you. They will continue bouncing around the room off of any hard, reflective surface they come in contact with. This is why a room with hardwood floors, bare walls and few absorptive furnishings will actually have audible echos compared to a carpeted room with drapes/curtains and absorptive furnishings. But don't think for a second if you have carpet, curtains and a cushy sectional sofa you shouldn't be concerned with taming these out of control reflections. Although you're better off than "hardwood floor/no curtains guy", you still don't have the sort of control over the reflections/echoes that's needed to realize optimum (or near optimum) fidelity and having proper absorption devices in the proper locations on the walls/ceiling is the only way to remedy this.

What do you do about it? Simply place an acoustic absorption panel at that location on the wall or ceiling where an early reflection is generated. These panels effectively eliminate or sufficiently weaken the strength of the reflection so the echo is eliminated or reduced to the point it no longer has an adverse effect on fidelity. There are tutorials here in the Listening Spaces forum on DIY absorption panel construction or you can purchase commercially available units (you'll save mucho dinero building them yourself).

How does one locate first reflection point? It's pretty easy, really. There's a good chance you've heard of the "mirror" method. All it amounts to is sitting in your listening position and moving a mirror along the wall until you can see the reflection of the speaker (that's on the same side of the room as the wall you're moving the mirror along) in the mirror.

Looks like EmmyLou found first reflection, too!
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So, this is where you want to place your absorption panel. Usually the optimum height above the floor puts the middle of the panel even with your noggin (the one pictured in my room could probably stand to be lowered about one foot).

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Additionally, if you want to tame the reflection from the speaker on the opposite side of the room you continue to move the mirror along the wall until you catch its reflection in the mirror. I've seen this referred to as second(ary) reflection , but really it's just another early reflection point for the speaker and wall opposite its position. In this picture I'm experimenting with diffusion/scattering , but I've since located another absorption panel to that location as I didn't like the results I got from the pictured device (so I don't encourage anyone to copy it!).
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To locate ceiling first reflection you draw an imaginary line between the listening position and the speaker, stand at the mid-way point between the two, look up at the ceiling directly above that spot and that is where you want to locate the middle of the panel. Panels in this location are often referred to as ceiling "clouds".

For the front wall it's usually preferred to have a few or more panels in that location (one panel directly behind each speaker and one panel at the point on the wall mid-way between the speakers has proven to work nicely for me). The thicker the panel the better as the goal here is to absorb as low in the spectral range as you possibly can...particularly mid and upper bass content as it often has a tendency to migrate to this location and it takes thickness and density to trap these lower frequencies. If it's not practical for you to have panels on the side walls (for any number of reasons including resistance from the significant other or obstructions created by decor/furnishings/structural items) getting panels up behind the speakers only should yield a noticeable improvement in mid and upper bass reproduction...which tends to bolster and improve the fidelity of mid range content. It won't do much to help image resolution (that happens with absorption at the side walls and rear wall), but some panels up on the front wall will often get you headed in the right direction and generally aren't as intrusive to the decor as they can kind of be hidden behind the speakers in many situations. And if you can provide some airspace between the panel and the wall the absorption panel's performance in terms of absorbing lower frequencies will improve. Keep in mind not all loudspeaker types benefit from having an absorptive surface behind them. If the design is such that it propagates a rear wave of sonic content...planar, ESL, and open baffle designs (all dipoles), as well as bipolar and omnipolars...it's that rear wave of sonic energy reflecting from the front wall and coming back into the room that gives them their unique (and often celebrated) sonic personality. I will add here that my experience has been having a hard, flat surface behind dipole designs is better than having absorption behind them (which kills that rear wave energy) but not necessarily ideal. I've found the performance of dipole designs actually improves if the surface behind them is diffuse, but diffusion is a complex (and fascinating) topic worthy of its own discussion. Since individual tastes vary, experimentation is encouraged as the sound you may prefer and how the room is responding may dictate absorption behind these designs is the preference.

Absorption on the rear wall (behind you) is very important as well...especially if the distance between the rear wall and the listening position is roughly eight feet or less. When this is the case I consider treating this wall just as important as treating side wall first reflection points. You can also use the mirror method for this location to find the early reflection points. A third panel located directly behind the listening position pays additional dividends.

A carpeted floor will generally offer sufficient absorption at the lower boundary surface. A hard, reflective floor will need a rug and the thicker the better. A coffee table located in front of the listening position generally creates reflections that can be tamed with throw pillows, a blanket or the like.

Have a look at this link for more information regarding treating your listening space for optimum acoustic response....

http://www.realtraps.com/art_room-setup.htm

And here's a build for DIY absorption panels....

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=445703

- Michael
 
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Personelly, I like to hear the sound bounce a bit. I love it when I can still get the separation of the speakers and get a "phantom speaker" sound off the back wall and it sounds almost like another set of matched speakers are behind me.
 
Personelly, I like to hear the sound bounce a bit. I love it when I can still get the separation of the speakers and get a "phantom speaker" sound off the back wall and it sounds almost like another set of matched speakers are behind me.

!!!

Now, of course, not everybody is into an accurate, realistic, multi-dimensional soundstage with balanced bandwidth reproduction and optimized fidelity......soooooo, whatever floats yer boat, man!
 
!!!

Now, of course, not everybody is into an accurate, realistic, multi-dimensional soundstage with balanced bandwidth reproduction and optimized fidelity......soooooo, whatever floats yer boat, man!


This is some very cool info. Thanks. I'm in the basement and have a little rug on the floor and a great big sectional to absorb sound. Nothing on the wallls or ceiling. I have been recently interested in building my own sound treatments.

S.J.
 
Yes, very cool indeed. I think I've got gear covered; now it's time to address my listening spaces and this thread is very informative and enough of a nudge to get me off the couch. Thanks.
 
This seems like a good rule of thumb, but don't different speakers have different dispersion patterns? The mirror method would say every speaker will reflect at the same point, but different drivers and box designs will throw narrower or wider sound fields, and therefore reflect at spots closer to or further away from the listener.

At least that's my understanding.
 
I've been told that you want to minimize the early reflections and once you get them properly minimized.... you want to diffuse, diffuse, diffuse and diffuse some more.

The guy that has been going over this with me (who's spent a couple decades in the sound business) said that most people make the mistake of having too much absorption.

I've never done any treatments so I'm just parroting what's been told to me.
 
Okay, be honest --you wrote this intending for it to be made a "sticky", right? Fess up, now... you DID hope it would be, right?

Well, it would make a good one, IMO, for the Speakers forum. It's fundamentally important for just about everyone's system (except headphone systems :D), and well-presented. Well done! :thmbsp:


EDIT: My apologies! I accessed this from the "new posts" list, and didn't realize it was in the "Listening Spaces" forum. This is a much more appropriate place to have it, than "Speakers"!
 
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I've been told that you want to minimize the early reflections and once you get them properly minimized.... you want to diffuse, diffuse, diffuse and diffuse some more.

The guy that has been going over this with me (who's spent a couple decades in the sound business) said that most people make the mistake of having too much absorption.

I've never done any treatments so I'm just parroting what's been told to me.

Based on the experiments I've done (going back all the way to teenage years), I'd say your friend was right. First reflection points are the most critical, but if you dampen too much you "kill" the sound. Tame the worst reflections, then diffuse the heck out of most of the rest. You can always calculate 2nd, 3rd, etc... reflection points to make it "scientific", but sometimes the best approach is just to move the biggest things (sofas, bookshelves) around a bit, and let the rest take care of itself. Plants, woodcarvings, etc... can all become (and intrinsically are) sound-altering. A mixture of damped, diffractive and reflective areas gives the best results. Experimentation usually works best, after you get the basics done, as each situation is different, and acoustics is actually quite complex in the real world.

Actually, diffraction/diffusion IS taming the sound, reducing it through cancellations, but without "sucking it out". It's a more commonly-occurring thing in the real world, that leaves a more natural balance of harmonics, I think.

One somewhat extreme but effective approach is to keep adding damping panels until it sounds like it's getting dull, then back off just a little. An alternative is to start with everything damped, then take off as much as you can (except where the 1st reflection points are), hearing the improvements until it starts getting worse again, then stop.

Bass is best separately tamed, with bass traps.

Helmholtz resonators can help, too, in some instances.
 
So what if you have a really big room where the speakers are some 8-10 feet away from the side walls? How might this change things?
 
So what if you have a really big room where the speakers are some 8-10 feet away from the side walls? How might this change things?

If you stand at the first reflection point on your side walls can you still hear the music? Of course you can and because of that you too will benefit from absorption there. I'd suspect that because of the large distance between your speakers and side walls your reflection takes even longer to arrive at your ears. The result of this is a longer delay between the time it takes the early reflection soundwave to reach your ears and the time it takes the soundwave firing directly from the speaker to reach your ears. This delay in arrival times creates what is called "comb filtering" and it will monkey up your imaging and soundstage.

EDIT: I've since learned a longer distance between the speaker and side wall is less problematic than a shorter distance. Not that it's a non-issue, just less so.
 
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Actually, diffraction/diffusion IS taming the sound, reducing it through cancellations, but without "sucking it out". It's a more commonly-occurring thing in the real world, that leaves a more natural balance of harmonics, I think.
Diffraction is a wave going around an object or through a hole, so I don't think that's quite what you meant.

Diffusion is when a cohesive wave is scattered. The sound isn't "canceled out," it just becomes more "evenly mixed" in the room and loses directionality.

One somewhat extreme but effective approach is to keep adding damping panels until it sounds like it's getting dull, then back off just a little. An alternative is to start with everything damped, then take off as much as you can (except where the 1st reflection points are), hearing the improvements until it starts getting worse again, then stop.

Perhaps a less laborious and possibly cheaper approach is to calculate the amount of absorptive material you need to reach an ideal reverberation time using an RT calculator. Begin treating the room with the absorptive material, and if you're still not happy with how it sounds, continue treating with diffusive elements.

A larger room will see even more benefit from controlling reflections than a small room. The further the sound has to travel, the more time that elapses between the arrival of the direct sound and the arrival of the reflection, which has a smearing effect.

A couple small points to consider for the first post...

Assuming a system with 2 speakers, there are going to be 2 first reflection points on each room surface, not one, as there will be one for each speaker. You want to treat both. In a small room both points will probably be pretty close to each other, so you'll be able to treat them with a single panel in most cases.

The reflections of tweeters and mids will matter more than woofers. We rely on high frequency sound more for determining location, so absorbing high frequency reflections should be the first goal when attacking first reflection points.

The vertical location of a first reflection point will be the average of the height of the speaker and the height of your noggin. The reflection in the mirror shows the correct placement for the absorber in the vertical as well as the horizontal.
 
^^^

This is your acoustics guy right here, folks. I'm just happy to be the "teacher's aid" (so to speak) and do the grunt work of implementing everything he's been generous enough to toss my direction. Any of you that have any questions beyond fundamental acoustic principles...RevMen's your guy.

Thanks for jumping in, Josh. So was I wrong in calling the reflection point on the opposite wall from the side of the room the speaker is on "second reflection"? That's the term I'd seen before...but I never looked for a second source to confirm the term.
 
This seems like a good rule of thumb, but don't different speakers have different dispersion patterns? The mirror method would say every speaker will reflect at the same point, but different drivers and box designs will throw narrower or wider sound fields, and therefore reflect at spots closer to or further away from the listener.
Nope. Imagine the speaker is tossing out rubber balls in every direction that it makes sound. The balls that will hit your head first are the ones that go straight to it (direct), and ones that bounce off the first reflection spots will come next (first reflection).

That does not mean you ignore the speakers' polar response in what you choose to do, though.
 
So was I wrong in calling the reflection point on the opposite wall from the side of the room the speaker is on "second reflection"? That's the term I'd seen before...but I never looked for a second source to confirm the term.
The "first reflections" are the first set of reflections arriving at the listening position directly after the direct sound. In most cases this will be the sounds that have bounced off of 1 wall.

It's a question of timing, not position, and it's not specific to stereos or speakers or anything in particular. I don't think the term "second reflection" is useful because the number of arriving reflections increases significantly after that initial period.
 
The "first reflections" are the first set of reflections arriving at the listening position directly after the direct sound. In most cases this will be the sounds that have bounced off of 1 wall.

It's a question of timing, not position, and it's not specific to stereos or speakers or anything in particular. I don't think the term "second reflection" is useful because the number of arriving reflections increases significantly after that initial period.

Thanks Josh....I'll get that edited right now.
 
Nope. Imagine the speaker is tossing out rubber balls in every direction that it makes sound. The balls that will hit your head first are the ones that go straight to it (direct), and ones that bounce off the first reflection spots will come next (first reflection).

That does not mean you ignore the speakers' polar response in what you choose to do, though.

Thanks for covering that for me, dumptruck.

"Rubber balls".....HA....I like it!
 
Okay, be honest --you wrote this intending for it to be made a "sticky", right? Fess up, now... you DID hope it would be, right?

Well, it would make a good one, IMO, for the Speakers forum. It's fundamentally important for just about everyone's system (except headphone systems :D), and well-presented. Well done! :thmbsp:


EDIT: My apologies! I accessed this from the "new posts" list, and didn't realize it was in the "Listening Spaces" forum. This is a much more appropriate place to have it, than "Speakers"!

Oh, I don't know...maybe just a little. ;)

Your kind words are much apprecitated, Arkay. It means a lot coming from you.

This information needed to be on this forum. I've found the whole concept and execution of proper room acoustics grossly underestimated and underutlized in this hobby. I consider it one of those things you'd list under "fundamental audio reproduction practices and concepts" (if such a thing ever existed).

And I don't buy the argument acoustic treatments can't be integrated into interior decor. Just get creative. Hire a hungry college art student to do some abstract painting on your panels, get or make some stencils and let your kid go crazy with a rattle can, whatever...no need to stigmatize it.

I remember reading some time ago about your shadow boxes or panels or masks or something of the like you used for diffusion. That stuck with me for some reason.
 
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