I look at it as everyone has their own preferences.
I still think mine may have originally had 250mA fuse lamps in it as the dial was hard to read in all but a darker room and I'm sure it didn't come from the factory like that. Would have drawn 1A of current not including the meter lamps and dial pointer which could explain the 2A fuse used as with 150mA dial lamps perhaps only a 1A fuse would have been necessary.
The warm white LEDs did get the dial closer in brightness and color to the one I remember having as a teenager.
I regret disassembling it for parts as it had the optional wood trim which this one doesn't have.
My dial lamps work good on the 6.12Vac they are being fed, although for the other LEDs I will run DC to them and figured it was easier to just use one voltage doubler with regulator and use resistors to provide the correct voltages for all the LEDs versus using a separate doubler for each LED since all the lights are switched on the input selector switch.
I was on the fence about trying the blue LEDs for the dial, but had figured the warm white LEDs would keep the shade of blue closer to the original.
I do have a small string of LED Christmas lights where 1/2 don't work so I might have an orange LED for the dial and if so I can figure out the necessary resistor to use in series with it.
For securing the surface mount LEDs in the holes for the indicators I used a component lead in a U shape to join two together then soldered the two wires that supply power to the LEDs and used a dab of super glue where the wires are and also the component lead so that should I have to remove the LEDs it won't be very hard to do.
Here's the latest schematic of the voltage doubler circuit.
EDIT:
I found a 7805 regulator and looked online at how to make it put out 9Vdc. B+ for the LEDs is 9.10Vdc. I found a terminal strip I had and used that for the resistors for the dial lamps, dial pointer and tuning meter LEDs.
The regulator is mounted to the main filter cap clamp using one of its screws. Didn't isolate the regulator from the chassis though as the transformer winding for the lighting is not connected to the chassis or any other ground.
For the resistor that is in series with the indicator bulbs I removed one of the screws holding the terminal strip in place that has the connections for the indicator lamp wiring and used an insulated terminal stud. The resistor was put in the negative as the positive is what is switched by the function switch and that saved two resistors since only one function indicator is on at any time.
Gotta take voltage readings tomorrow and update the schematic then I'll post here.
Only need to buy a pack of 5 LED fuse lamps now to get three LEDs from them then install those and the conversion will be done.
I did notice the B+ drops to nearly 12Vdc from 15Vdc when the dial lamps are on. Probably should have used larger caps in the voltage doubler, but the regulated voltage stays at 9.10Vdc so all is good.
Everything is totally reversible so if a future owner wants to go back to incandescents it only requires removing a few components and putting back the wiring as it originally was.
I did notice that the increase of 100mV did affect the voltages to the LEDs somewhat particularly the ones for the indicator which I sort of expected as once those warm white LEDs light up it doesn't take much of a voltage change to change the brightness a good bit.
I would up using some resistors I had in my stash so I had to combine some, but they are 1% metal film.
As seen on the schematic there's some oddball resistor values, but that was done to keep the LED voltage at that which provided the proper brightness when testing with a DC supply.
I'll try and get some pictures of the installation tomorrow, but will have to take it out to my car as I cannot have a cellphone at work.