Fisher 500B Re-Hab

Discussion in 'Fisher' started by Dave451, Feb 10, 2017.

  1. Dave451

    Dave451 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    743
    Location:
    Philly area
    UPDATE: Listening went well with no issues at all. The 500B has a warm and musical sound and tuner is working quite well. Back on the bench for final clean up and adjustment. Needs a good cleaning.
     
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  2. Dave451

    Dave451 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    743
    Location:
    Philly area
    Cleaned the 500B and gave it a final going over, including cleaning tube pins, sockets, switches, pots. Set the 7591A bias at 38 mA per tube using the IBAM. Even though the C88 (200 uF/250V) cap tested good, I didn't like the look of the vents (a little 'bulgy"), so I replaced it with a 220 uF/300V F&T axial under the chassis. There were no knob brites at all, so I installed aftermarket ones and they look pretty good (especially compared to none at all!). She's got some miles on her, but doesn't look bad at all and cleaned up pretty nicely. Sound, as always, excellent. Lost the small face plate index marks during very delicate cleaning attempt :(, but face plate still looks good. Repainted the white on the lamps and re-foamed around the glass after scraping off the old polyurethane foam remnants. I'm going to call it good and probably put this one up for adoption! Thanks for all the advice and support, folks!
    Dave
     

    Attached Files:

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  3. bhamham

    bhamham Super Member

    Messages:
    2,038
    Location:
    France
    A real beauty!
     
  4. Sam08861

    Sam08861 Active Member

    Messages:
    285
    Location:
    Northwestern NJ
    Nicely done! Beautiful looking unit.

    When rehabbing mine my faceplate was extra dirty and etched with some nasty brown stain, so after cleaning/polishing the markings on the aluminum and now they are very faint, not to mention losing the nice champagne color, so know the feeling with the dial glass.

    The good news for you is there are reproduction glass items somewhat reasonably priced on ebay that come up, if it starts to bother you. Also, these guys sell them too.. http://www.radiodaze.com/dials-glass-62/ no-affiliation and can't vouch for their products/reputation.

    I myself like to get as close to perfect as I can and rationalize these types of purchases with the money saved by DIY and the wife never notices the little stuff anyway, lol.

    If I can't find the alum. faceplate in the future, I'm going to try to screen print my aluminum plate sometime in the future as that just kind of looks fun to learn how to do.

    btw, nice touch on painting the bulbs.
     
  5. Sam08861

    Sam08861 Active Member

    Messages:
    285
    Location:
    Northwestern NJ
    ps, the 400 dial seems to be the closest as the 500 dial has the 'stereo beam' marking in yellow instead of green/blue or whatever that color is.
     
  6. larryderouin

    larryderouin Do I get Food, Med's, or more gear this Month? Subscriber

    Messages:
    20,144
    Location:
    Glen Burnie Md.
    Depending on the year the STEREO Beacon can be Green or Yellow. My 63 Executive's 800c(it's the original 800c numbers matching) has yellow markings for Stereo Beacon and my Stand Alone 800-c (38xxx) has green. I've bought a couple of Dial glass' from Radio daze and they line up pretty close if not totally on. It's probably the best you'll get short of original production glass from a parts unit.
     
  7. Dave451

    Dave451 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    743
    Location:
    Philly area
    Thanks, Sam. I had no idea these were available. I also thought the 400 glass looked closest as well. That site has a lot of good stuff and it had slipped my mind. It's amazing to me that there is someone out there making these kinds of ultra-specialized parts available. The current one doesn't look bad, so I may just leave as is, but it's nice to have options for now and the future!
     
  8. Dave451

    Dave451 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    743
    Location:
    Philly area
    By the way, Sam, the darker gold face plate on this 800B has a darker coating on it that actually looks like a kind of varnish applied to it, sometimes a little unevenly (you can only see that in a harsh light). I tentatively scrubbed at it a little and figured it was put there on purpose. Maybe discretion was the better part of valor, but I figured if I tried to strip the face plate down, I'd lose the lettering on the controls which right now are still perfect. Probably should have tried that approach when I cleaned the glass! Live and learn. :rolleyes:
     
  9. Sam08861

    Sam08861 Active Member

    Messages:
    285
    Location:
    Northwestern NJ
    Thanks for the tip on the 800b varnish. I had thought about tinting some clear polyurethane to simulate the finish and may give that a go after figuring out the lettering.
     
  10. larryderouin

    larryderouin Do I get Food, Med's, or more gear this Month? Subscriber

    Messages:
    20,144
    Location:
    Glen Burnie Md.
    Try Model Railroad press on lettering. You'll have to clear coat it afterwards tho to hold the lettering. Lots of different fonts and fairly small sizes.
     
  11. Sam08861

    Sam08861 Active Member

    Messages:
    285
    Location:
    Northwestern NJ
    Thanks Larry! Googling now.... Seems much better than the dry transfer stuff I tried from the chain hobby (more like women's hobby) store in town.
     

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