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Fisher X-100-A = Fisher KX-90 = ?

Discussion in 'Tube Audio' started by darko, Sep 23, 2008.

  1. darko

    darko ... and never give up!

    Messages:
    492
    Location:
    Near Zürich, Switzerland
    Hello,

    Iam confused with all the Modell Numbers.

    My new Fisher X-100-A / Serial: 64333E


    What Modell is this? Is it a X-100-A, or KX-90, or ??

    I found Shematics for the Modell's X100, X100A, X101 abd X202, but not one match.
    He is the one with EL84/7189 (Original Fisher).


    [​IMG][​IMG] [​IMG][​IMG] [​IMG][​IMG] [​IMG][​IMG] [​IMG][​IMG]


    Question: Is it possible to resolder the Main Power Supply, for 220V ?
     
  2. kvflyer

    kvflyer Super Member

    Messages:
    2,886
    Location:
    Catonsville, MD, USA
    Can't be sure but the KX stuff was kits built by owners. Called, "Strata-Kit"...
     
  3. darko

    darko ... and never give up!

    Messages:
    492
    Location:
    Near Zürich, Switzerland
    do You mean Self-made-Kit's, like Dynaco Kit's ?

    My X-100-A looks like a KX-90, but is more like the X-100 with rectifier Diodes.
    The first X-100 was with a GZ34.

    Iam will komplete rebuild this very nice Unit. Herefore Iam looking first for the RIGHT Shematics. All what is found, is a bit different to the mine one.


    [​IMG][​IMG]



    :)
     
  4. kvflyer

    kvflyer Super Member

    Messages:
    2,886
    Location:
    Catonsville, MD, USA
    Not sure what "Self-made-kit's" means. Fisher, Scott, Heath-Kit, EICO and many others had kits that the consumer could assemble. If the directions were followed properly, the result was a very nice item. For that matter, kits cost HH Scott more than the factory assembled items.

    If assembled by the directions, the item could be very nice. I have gotten some Scott kits that were a disaster. I literally disassembled the entire kit and built it up from scratch. For that matter, I am listening to it right now! An LK-72 Scott (with the brown face plate).
     
  5. Fisherdude

    Fisherdude Regular Dude - Super Mod Super Mod Subscriber

    Messages:
    27,562
    Location:
    Out West.
    It's an X-100-A. If you have a schematic for an X-100-A, it should be correct.

    How is the schematic not correct?
     
  6. darko

    darko ... and never give up!

    Messages:
    492
    Location:
    Near Zürich, Switzerland
    The OPTs have 4-8-16 in the X-100-A Shematic.
    Mine has "only" 8 and 16 Ohm Screws.

    Maybe the Shematic is wrong - I cant say for shure.
    Have only this one. Nothing to compare.


    BTW - The Underhood is beatifull clean and have a lot of spare Place.
    The Opposite is my Fisher 400 and the Pioneer SM-83.

    I chekd' all the Tubes with a old EMC 213. Its more like a Sony Playstation V.0.2
    But, it does read :) I can compare all 7189 Output Tubes and the 4 12AX7.

    Should the Rectifier Diodes left, or better be replaced with 1N400x ?
    The Big CanCap's are for shure to dry. I got some fine Nichicon's for this Job.
    The other Caps are German made. I would like to replace them all with P716.
    They have a grat Job done in the Fisher 400.

    One Thing I recognize at the first Impressions-Look, one OPT is a bit thicker, with silver Screws.
    The lefthand One is a bit thinner, with black Screws tightened. Nice Surprize :-/

    Best Regards,
    Darko
     
  7. joenielsen

    joenielsen Active Member

    Messages:
    314
    Location:
    CT
    It looks identical to my KX-90. PM me offline with your email address and I can email you the schematic.
     
  8. darko

    darko ... and never give up!

    Messages:
    492
    Location:
    Near Zürich, Switzerland
    The singing Fisher!

    Its alive, sounding pretty good.


    Yesterdy Evening, I cooked the new Nichicon Cap.
    Today I have replaced the 2,2k - 3W Resistor on the Nichicon +Leg.
    He was open. Good looking Bast..d with no Function.

    Ok, lets go:
    I took two 4,3k 5W parallel - was then 2,05kOhm.
    A new 270uF100V Cap (was 200uF70V -one Section of the Can Cap)

    On 117V nothing comes on. I took a Inverter 12AX7 out, to measure
    directly on the Socket - AND - crack, noising, Statics - Heureka!
    The Voltage was Ways to low. I decide to go up more with Supply Voltage.

    At 158VAC, light Cranking Sound is comming out of the Fullrange Speakers.
    ( Cheap One, but nice ) - Then, the EL84's began to slightly glowing.

    Ok, thats the Way I say and push the Fisher X-100-A up to 200VAC.
    Surprizingly good Voice of Mrs. Krall jump then in my Face(...).

    Oh Boy, never see a US Fisher to work with Europe Voltage 220V.
    Then after reading alot, I found that there was a 110/220V Power Transformer existing around. That was the Mystery. Its a 220V Unit..

    Resumee:
    1. good looking Resistors can be bad working Ones
    2. old looking Tubes must not be good working Ones - Thank You Tubetester
    3. Stay cool, when Nothing is happen'd
    4. Let the Unit eeeeaaasy comming up - dont push (dry Caps)
    5. Make all Switches and Sliders mechanical good working BEFORE testing
    6. Drink NOT Alcohol while operating at over 400VOLTS!!!

    8. and most important - ask Audiokarma first and read alot!

    Thank You Guys for the friendly Way.

    :thmbsp:

    Darko
     
  9. spaceman

    spaceman Registered Lunatic

    Messages:
    14,905
    Location:
    Seattle
    Cool, I'm glad you got her working. :thmbsp: Yeah, I'd definitely save the alcohol for AFTER working on it, if I were you. :D
     
  10. darko

    darko ... and never give up!

    Messages:
    492
    Location:
    Near Zürich, Switzerland
    Hi Spaceman,

    if Iam would be I, then I never would drink.

    :D


    Todays newest Update's:

    - replaced the one big uggly Cap with black Cover,
    with a brand new BC Philips 220/385V instead 200/250V.
    The Measuring Value was pretty bad - 20-60uF, oscilating up/down.
    Great "Pass-Trough" :sigh:

    - all EROFOILS replaced with orange Drops from Sprague - 716P / 600V Types.
    Measuring Values not bad, but all a bit to high, 20-30%

    Soundwise it seems a bit more "colder", maybe crisper, but You know.
    Strange Thing this is, Psychoaccoustical are not predictive.

    The OPT are different too, like I say before.

    The "smaller" is the T11xxxxx4-2B.
    The "wider" is the T11xxxxx4-1B.

    If I found someday or the one or other, I catch them for sure.

    :yes:

    BTW, I decide to connect more sophisticated Loudspeakers.
    I replce the Fullrange / without Case / - with Dynaudio's Beasts.
    Its funny - They are great Speaker, with clear and powerfull OverAll Range,-
    but- they need a lot more of Power to drive them well. 2x17WRMS are
    for sure nut enough. Ok, its clear to say, that I need the Dynaudio parallel
    with Yamahas NS-1000m for comparing the Amps and the whole Chain.

    So wide - so good - Lets take a few deep Breaths in the fresh Autumn Air!
    Weekend is here!
     

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