GE Tombstone Radio A-63

I have the service information for your radio in my Riders manual book 6. If you need it, I can scan it for you. The square box electrolytic caps were common in the 30's and 40's and can be replaced with modern caps by either re stuffing the boxes or replacing with modern caps if originality isn't a problem.
That would be awesome, any and all information is greatly appreciated! I'm hoping that when I open that silver box it shows whether for not it is a 4 or 8 mfd cap being used lol
 
Thanks for the advice everybody! It is going well so far. I am wondering what those long red and long green things are now. The green one that says 5M OHMS. Worth replacing?
Find color code chart, measure and if in tolerance, leave alone.
Centralab Resistors.jpg
 
I would leave the resistors alone until the electrolytics are replaced. 5M sounds like a 5 mega-ohm resistor.
Using the shotgun approach on a first repair is taking quite a chance for failure, keep it simple, do the minimums to make sure it is basically working, then replace parts a couple at a time, so if it stops working, you can study the last things you have done.
 
Last edited:
I would leave the resistors alone until the electrolytics are replaced 5M sounds like a 5 mega-ohm resistor
Ya I am definitely starting with the Electrolytic caps and moving from there. Going to be ordering parts in the next day or so, also need to replace the power cord
 
The green parts with 5M Ohm is a "dogbone" resistor. If they measure OK I'd leave it alone. Same with the other resistors. If its outside of say 20% tolerance then I might replace it.
 
Once you get the electrolytics replaced you should be safe to try a power up test. Who knows, it might even work. Check to see if all the tubes light you may need to order replacements. Make sure to unplug the radio and discharge all the high voltage caps before touching anything before you start replacing caps.
 
Last edited:
I've finally been able to make a step forward and work on the radio. I've gone as far as to replace everything but the silver box underneath. I think I have what I need; a 4mfd 50v and a 4mfd 450v, but I'm not sure which leads mean what. I don't have a great schematic, wondering if any of you can tell at all.
There is also a silver can cap that has no indication at all, I've yet to find out what it is. It wasn't attached to anything when I received the radio. There are only two terminals underneath.
 

Attachments

  • random can cap.JPG
    random can cap.JPG
    77.1 KB · Views: 27
  • Silver can cap.JPG
    Silver can cap.JPG
    61.4 KB · Views: 24
  • GE radio.JPG
    GE radio.JPG
    75.8 KB · Views: 21
I think that silverish box dual capacitor replaced that thing, and the one missing from the hole next to it.
 
I think I've done enough to power it up and do some tests, but the socket for the driver has almost all of its wires torn out of it. I am wondering how I can determine which wires go where?
 

Attachments

  • 12:09:2018.JPG
    12:09:2018.JPG
    72.7 KB · Views: 20
  • Driver Input.JPG
    Driver Input.JPG
    43.4 KB · Views: 22
  • Driver Input 2.JPG
    Driver Input 2.JPG
    40 KB · Views: 22
Two of these wires go to the voice coil and the other two go to the electromagnet coil. You should be able to find the voice coil wires as they will go directly to the output transformer.
 
Last edited:
Shoot me a PM with your email address. I have a better copy of the manual for you.

Field wires are red and white with a red tracer. Voice coil leads are yellow with a red trace and black.

The yellow/red goes to the output transformer underneath, black goes to ground. The field leads will go to the two filter capacitors, which is most likely the box.
 
Just sent you a convo Gadget.

I am thinking I might need to replace the power switch also, as I can't turn it even a little bit. Tried cleaning it, but it won't budge. Looks like it says 1amp 250v 3amp 125v on the back of it. I found something on eBay, but I assume this power switch also controls the volume? This radio was not working when I got it and I've never used this model, so I want to make sure. The other two potentiometers just click so they are not volume switches.
 
Last edited:
Try a few drops of penetrating oil down the shaft of the control. If that does nothing, try holding the soldering iron under the bushing where the shaft goes into the control. If you can get it moving, you may be able to get it freed up and then be able to flush it with a cleaner to make it go again.

Looks like tone switch on the left, volume/power in the middle, band switch on the right, and tuning top center.

If it just will not go, you'll need to replace the control with one that has a power switch and a 250K pot. Matching the shaft up may be the harder part.
 
Hey so I found this potentiometer on eBay.. would this work? It needs to be replaced.

CTS 1 Meg Ohm Audio A Log Taper Pot Potentiometer with On Off Switch 3A 250V NOS
 

Attachments

  • Pot 1.jpg
    Pot 1.jpg
    43.3 KB · Views: 4
  • pot 2.jpg
    pot 2.jpg
    63.5 KB · Views: 5
I was able to get the switch to turn after taking it off and loosening it up, so I plugged it in and decided to test the radio. it looks like tube Y53 is red plating, which has a 450v 18uf electrolytic cap that I replaced on it. Looks like I may have the wrong cap there?
 

Attachments

  • 450v18uf.JPG
    450v18uf.JPG
    62.7 KB · Views: 16
Back
Top Bottom