The sockets are actually labeled from the under side but I noticed that the 6n9p sockets are rotated 180 degrees to where the pin labeled 3 is actually in the 3 o'clock position. But the connections seem to match the other pictures from this thread.
Socket pin numbers are determined while looking at the bottom of the socket. These are octal (8 pin) sockets and they have a notch or keyway which makes it impossible to install the tube wrong. Moving clockwise from the keyway the first pin you come to is Pin 1 and so forth.
To have both of them roast I'd think it might be more of a circuit design thing. It might really need a 1w part there instead of 1/2w. One failed part I could see as being a short or a bum tube but both seems unlikely.
Exactly.
In the most recent pics posted, I was looking at the cathode resistor trying to figure out its resistance. Unlike some of the other resistors, the tolerance band is not spaced further from the others and the colors are a bit difficult to determine. But they look like Brown, Green, Black, Brown, Brown. That's 1.5k which also looks to be the same as those in the previous amp pictured.
Looking at the scorched plate resistors, the bands don't match the 30k parts shown in the pic of the other amp. On both of the burned resistors, the middle three color bands all seem to be black. That would put the value in the hundreds of ohms which would not be anywhere close to a correct value. As Gadget pointed out, even the 30k shown in the other amp is lower than one would expect.
In this case it seems that the values shown in the schematics, either 68k or 82k, are more reasonable considering the 22k plate resistance of the tube with the two triodes in parallel. Using a 1w part wouldn't hurt.
Are you using the stock Chinese 6n9p or its American 6SL7 equivalent? I'd suggest replacing the resistors and tossing the input tubes in case there is some internal problem with them. Replace them with some decent NOS or strong testing used American 6SL7s.
Also, which rectifier tube are you running? The earlier topic of the thread was the need to replace the first cap after the rectifier because it's 150uf, which is too large a value. It needs to be sized according to the data sheet of whatever rectifier you're using.