General Info on TEAC X-1000R RTR

Before you mount the assembly plate back on, clean the old grease off each fly-wheel center shaft, and put a small amount of Lube-Gel on the steel-ball.
TeacX1000RBeltchange024.jpg


Attach the plastic connector back on the capstan-motor and slide the whole assemby-plate back in the same way it came out. Be careful so now wires are between and in the fly-wheels.
You need a long screw-driver or hook to lift up the drive-belt on to the pulley at the same time you guiding the plate back.
Also be sure the Timer function plate goes in the slot on top of the assembly plate.
This can be little tricky but have patience:

See here:
TeacX1000RBeltchange040.jpg


Attach the lower center screw on the plate first, but don't tighten it until all the other 5 is attached.
When it's all back in place, spin one fly-wheel both directions with your finger so the belt guide itself, and you can check how the belt changes position on both fly-wheels.

Attach new tie-straps on the right side + check so no wires are close to the fly-wheels.

Check the timer buttons on the front so they function properly.

Mount the pinch-rollers back on and put one small drop of gun-oil on each shaft, be sure you have those small black washers on each side of the pinch-roller.
TeacX1000RBeltchange033.jpg


Washer:
TeacX1000RBeltchange034.jpg


Covers back on the pinch-rollers, and check the movement up and down, should be smooth on both L + R. :yes:
TeacX1000RBeltchange035.jpg


Time to test with tape and power on:
TeacX1000RBeltchange.jpg


Press Play in both directions and check the belt from the back and see how it behave.
Try this several times before you assembly the plastic cabinet and wood-cabinet.

Good Luck Eric. :thmbsp:
I hope it goes well with the surgery.
 
I just want to thank you VT Tex for this post. I purchased a 1000R back in 06 and it has had the sticky pinch lift since I got it. I would help them up then hit play, never had issues except that. I have never seen enough information on the topic till last weekend Fri March 10th 2017. Having the service manual user manual I always thought you had to take that linkage completely apart to get this job done. So I said to myself .....self, if this is all we have to do let's do this. Just a fabulous success! So thank you again.
 
My Thanks to you as well, Vintage TX... your pics and descriptions are a huge help. Just resurrected a X-700R picked up at Goodwill someone had gotten a little too rambunctious with tools on this thing. Poor baby had a non-Teac belt, missing the spacer for the capstan motor bracket causing the L-R playback to drop out (tape slack). A new Teac belt and lots of other little things, proper motor mounting and now Karen Carpenter sounds as good as ever. Thanks again!
 
What the hell. I just got my X-1000, and I have not even been into it. I just looked at your how-to, Rolf, and it's awesome. I pride myself on doing how-tos for really stupid people (which would be me, because I can never remember what I did in the first place). This is one of those how-tos. I have been into a couple decks by now and am pretty confident I could handle this one, too, but with that how-to, this is gonna be a breeze. Thanks a lot for that!!!

s.
 
Thanks. I am pretty much done. I got the new black faceplate which I really like. It's in the dishwasher right now :) That's gonna go on later, then I just need the new capstan belt which is gonna be here tomorrow, and then everything will go back. I bought different oils and greases (some fine sewing machine oil, some high strength ball bearing grease, and some silicone grease for plastic), and after cleaning everything it's gonna go back together. By the way what do you guys think about those pinch rollers on ebay which do not have the bronze bearings but ballbearings, and natural colored rubber?
 
Got it back together, and also swapped the faceplate, which is not as much a pain in the neck as it seems to be. So now it's black, albeit with some scratches, since the black plate I got is not nearly as pristine as the original silver one, which is as far as I can tell absolutely flawless. Still, gonna keep it silver for a while :) I night take some shots about how to change the plate in the future. For now, again, thanks Rolf for the great help :)
 
OK I finally got to test it, and it does NOT work. Electronically. Mechanically, it's fine. It will only record in one direction, backwards.... and the dbx seems to have a problem, if I use it backwards, the levels are much lower when dbx is on. Any pointers, or should I give that to a repair shop?
 
I would set aside the DBX option until you solve its other issues.

Some folks bypass the DBX on their decks, as it requires close calibration, which has been affected by aging and drifting of component values over the decades. An external DBX encoder, using the type II implementation of this technology, is much more tolerant of small level mismatch, than what's on your deck. These external units are easily found, and their price is reasonable.

Again, get the other issues attended to, for now.
 
I agree 100% with oldvinyldude. I use DBX 224 (Type II) units on all of my decks for noise reduction and to provide playback compatibility between decks which you will not have if you record tapes using the X-1000R's internal DBX Type I noise reduction.
 
OK I finally got to test it, and it does NOT work. Electronically. Mechanically, it's fine. It will only record in one direction, backwards.... and the dbx seems to have a problem, if I use it backwards, the levels are much lower when dbx is on. Any pointers, or should I give that to a repair shop?
-Clean the three long switches on the large bottom circuit board. Use Deoxit D5.
-Clean the DBX switch (needs to be removed to clean)
-Do a full calibration of bias and levels
 
Just found this thread. Thank you Vintage TX for the photo set. I just acquired one of these and am in the process of tuning it up...I noticed that it has been worked on before...and guess what, some of the washers between the various front panel removable parts are missing. Is there a source for the ones on the smaller shafts and the bigger ones...I only need a few.

Thanks for the info!
 
I'm not sure how well those would work since I have never tried them. The main concerns would be whether they would increase the friction between the rotating and fixed parts or if they would absorb any lubricant used on the parts which could affect their operation. The original parts don't have these issues of course being made of plastic.
 
Hi, everyone. I found this fine site some time ago when I was looking to replace the capstan belt on my X-2000R. I have a new belt from TEAC, and I'm ready to replace it, but the how-to's very helpful photos are missing. Looks like it has something to do with a change in how the images are sourced. Is there any chance anyone has either a PDF or other form of the instructions to share? Or maybe a direct link to the photos themselves? Anxiously awaiting getting my deck back online. :) Thanks!
 
Hi, Photo Bucket changed the rules recently, no more free picture links, sorry
Thanks for the reply! Any chance they're available on the Photobucket site itself? Or that I can help with reviving them long enough to capture the instructions with photos for everyone's benefit? Happy to pitch in with the logistics or even a few $ if that helps.
 
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