General Info on TEAC X-1000R RTR

[Vintage TX]

I have over 3000 pictures and videos there, was trying to download last night but mostly error messages so I think it's a lost case.
Did found out they want $ 300 a year for third party web hosting and at this time it's not possible for me, sorry

 

[dhnash]

Perhaps you should setup a GoFundMe page and see if you can get 30 people to donate $10 each to restore the very useful set-by-step servicing guides that you have spent so much time assembling. It's a shame that without doing something like this, this information will no longer be accessible to those who need it.

 

[MariaX2000R]

I have over 3000 pictures and videos there, was trying to download last night but mostly error messages so I think it's a lost case.
Did found out they want $ 300 a year for third party web hosting and at this time it's not possible for me, sorry

I found this series of YouTube videos which are almost certainly yours and have many of the images/steps involved:

 

[MariaX2000R]

I found this series of YouTube videos which are almost certainly yours and have many of the images/steps involved:

Spent some quality time with my X-2000R this morning to replace the belt and clean up the pinch roller mechanism. It wasn't budging at all, and neither was the tape lifter. I ended up having to take the housing base off the front to get access to more of the mechanism, and once I did that, I was able to lube more points. All is good and happy now, and the deck is good as new.

I took a bunch of photos and some video, and I'll share those ASAP. Here are just a couple.

 

[Fabio2]

Hi there...I am new to this forum but not to RTR...I own a TEAC X-3 Mk II andI was thinking of buying another TEAC.
I found an X-1000 in perfect condition, save for the usual belt problem.

The unit goes into FF and RW but if you attempt PB it stops, relays working ok. It certainly is the dual belt, as it was on the X3.
I can commend Vintage TX for the step-by-step description of the "surgery", but I am unable to see the pix. an annoying Photobucket message comes on and shows nothing...How can I get rid of it?
Thanks!
Fabio

 

[oldvinyldude]

The pics were hosted on a formerly free service, but now the hosting site charges a large sum, so no more pics

 

[MariaX2000R]

Hi there...I am new to this forum but not to RTR...I own a TEAC X-3 Mk II andI was thinking of buying another TEAC.
I found an X-1000 in perfect condition, save for the usual belt problem.

The unit goes into FF and RW but if you attempt PB it stops, relays working ok. It certainly is the dual belt, as it was on the X3.
I can commend Vintage TX for the step-by-step description of the "surgery", but I am unable to see the pix. an annoying Photobucket message comes on and shows nothing...How can I get rid of it?
Thanks!
Fabio

Turns out I have a PDF of the instructions with images. I will post it ASAP. Also, I recently completed this service on an X-2000R and took lots of photos. Planning to share those as well.

 

[MariaX2000R]

I have an older iPad that I hadn't touched since sometime before the images were removed by the photo hosting site. I picked the iPad up yesterday and discovered one of the browser tabs was open to this page and still showing the photos!! What luck!

I immediately generated a PDF and will share it ASAP. Unfortunately, it's too large to attach directly, so I'll need to drop it elsewhere and post a link here.

The instructions from @Vintage TX are super helpful -- especially with the accompanying photos. Glad I still had that browser tab open!

 

[discodaddy]

Just wanted to add my appreciation for this thread and all the the very helpful advice posted by the tech's on here.
I've been able to get my newly acquired X-1000R working as good as new because of this site and the knowledge posted (New belt, back tension sorted, and lube points sorted etc)

As a side note I've found a source of belts that work great on the 1000R. Here in the UK Teac dealers want just short of £40, which makes it a rather expensive rubber band.
A guy in Greece with the website "Tascamninja" does new ones that work great in forward and reverse play with no issues, good price and fast shipping.
EBay seller called Atlantaprosound also do a belt that works great with no issues, they're in the USA.

 

[Henryk]

Hi MariaX2000R,

Did you manage to find place for your pdf version of TEAC X-1000R restoration manual that Vintage Tx put together?
If so, can you share a link to it?
If not can you drop it on some Dropbox or Google drive or www.box.com, make it public and sent link to it?

Much appreciate your help here.
Henryk

 

[Thocom]

Before you mount the assembly plate back on, clean the old grease off each fly-wheel center shaft, and put a small amount of Lube-Gel on the steel-ball.

Attach the plastic connector back on the capstan-motor and slide the whole assemby-plate back in the same way it came out. Be careful so now wires are between and in the fly-wheels.
You need a long screw-driver or hook to lift up the drive-belt on to the pulley at the same time you guiding the plate back.
Also be sure the Timer function plate goes in the slot on top of the assembly plate.
This can be little tricky but have patience:

See here:

Attach the lower center screw on the plate first, but don't tighten it until all the other 5 is attached.
When it's all back in place, spin one fly-wheel both directions with your finger so the belt guide itself, and you can check how the belt changes position on both fly-wheels.

Attach new tie-straps on the right side + check so no wires are close to the fly-wheels.

Check the timer buttons on the front so they function properly.

Mount the pinch-rollers back on and put one small drop of gun-oil on each shaft, be sure you have those small black washers on each side of the pinch-roller.

Washer:

Covers back on the pinch-rollers, and check the movement up and down, should be smooth on both L + R. :yes:

Time to test with tape and power on:

Press Play in both directions and check the belt from the back and see how it behave.
Try this several times before you assembly the plastic cabinet and wood-cabinet.

Good Luck Eric. :thmbsp:
I hope it goes well with the surgery.

It sure would be nice if these photos were accessible again. I’m dealing with a sticking pinch roller assembly and need to clean and oil it. Photos of the best way to get to it without taking the entire machine apart would be helpful.

 

[dave_n_s]

It sure would be nice if these photos were accessible again. I’m dealing with a sticking pinch roller assembly and need to clean and oil it. Photos of the best way to get to it without taking the entire machine apart would be helpful.

This is the same process from the X-7 through all X-Series.

Head cover off.

Pinch Rollers off - don't lose 2 each side thin washers.

Plastic surround off - same size, two x-point screws on all except X-2000, where it's rather larger and secured with allen bolts.

Now you'll be able to see the important parts of the mechanism, push the pinch rollers and see what moves what. Take a photo at this stage. I've had machines arrive where someone has clearly carried on with no idea how it was hooked up before they took it apart, so the linkage was not reassembled correctly. IT might appear to work, but you won't get even pressure on the capstans and therefore uneven head contact.

Cross-plate off - two x-point screws.

Pull upwards the L-shaped levers that pinch rollers fit onto. If they don't come off with finger pressure, use heat from a Weller 140W solder gun or similar to melt solid grease and gently pull up with pliers or lever up gently.

Watch for a washer under the linkage each opposite end of the L-shaped lever from the pinch roller shaft fits into - easy to lose into the machine.

Remove all old grease you can see (including on the parts of the linkage you can see and those two big washers).

Slip levers back on shafts and check absolutely free movement,

Regrease & reassemble.

These are a lot easier to do than the old A series (6010/ 7010 for instance) or more common newer A series (2300, 3300 and 4 channel variants).

 

[lopezluna]

Tapetech, Hi, good afternoon .I just recently aquired a teac x-1000r I have been reading this thread and I know I will have to do a tear down and clean n lube plus I just ordered a belt from teac. My question is that when I put on tape reels and pull some tape out of reel to feed it thru I feel a lot of resistance. I looked down ftom the top and manually pushed the brake down and if freed up and spun without all the resistance. When i let go of the brake it gets the resistance is there again. Is it normal to have so much resistance or brake on when powered off? Thanks in advance.

 

[lopezluna]

-Clean the three long switches on the large bottom circuit board. Use Deoxit D5.
-Clean the DBX switch (needs to be removed to clean)
-Do a full calibration of bias and levels

Hi tapetech, I been reading this thread and was wondering if it is normal for the brakes to be set or if it is normal to have a lot of resistance when turning the reels while power is off and trying to thread the tape? If it is not normal what would cause the brakes to be on? I can push down on brakes and spin the reel with little resistance but once I let go the brake the reels are not turning withought plenty of resistance that I cant pull the tape withought feeling im going to tear the tape. This is my first RTR and I am willing to learn how to work on it. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks Ben

 

[rickknight]

Lopezluna, I have a TEAC A-6300 and an X-7R MkII, both in great working condition, and I've had several other TEAC decks over the years, including a new A-2300 back in the `70s. The brakes offer a lot of resistance. What you describe sounds pretty normal in my experience. A more common problem is brakes that offer too little resistance, so that when you hit Stop or Pause one or both reels keep spinning, dumping tape on the floor. What I often do, especially with older tape, is turn the feed reel by hand to get enough free tape to reach the take up reel, thread the reel and then hit Play, and enjoy.

Rick

 

[lopezluna]

Lopezluna, I have a TEAC A-6300 and an X-7R MkII, both in great working condition, and I've had several other TEAC decks over the years, including a new A-2300 back in the `70s. The brakes offer a lot of resistance. What you describe sounds pretty normal in my experience. A more common problem is brakes that offer too little resistance, so that when you hit Stop or Pause one or both reels keep spinning, dumping tape on the floor. What I often do, especially with older tape, is turn the feed reel by hand to get enough free tape to reach the take up reel, thread the reel and then hit Play, and enjoy.

Rick

Rickknight Thank you very much for the information. I was very concerned about the resistance. Really appreciate it.

 

[lehouillier1]

X-1000R Repair Question

I just picked up a X-1000R as a non working unit and upon opening the back cover found that the belt is broken and almost glued to the two rollers. I watched Vintage's excellent Youtube video and I think I can replace the belt. The unit seems to be in very good condition. The only other thing I noticed in addition to the belt is that the two pinch rollers do not move forward when I hit the play button. I do not know if the missing belt has something to do with this. Any ideas?

Okay here is the hard part, I am trying to take the front cover of to reach the solenoids. But try as I can, I cannot figure out how to take the knobs off.

I have a full set of hex and allen keys and I cannot fit any of them.

Can someone help me?

Thanks

Milan

"Reel to Reel (anything else is a compromise)"

1.5mm Hex

 

[lehouillier1]

I recently acquired an X1000R. I have had it apart, and done required maintenance. It runs and sounds pretty good. However, the tape counter sits at zero. The wheel is turning and I know the sensors are physically there. I'm going to tear it back down to investigate. I was wondering if anyone had advice as to what I should look for. Obvious mistakes or common failure associated with the counter. I have no idea if the counter worked previously because the capstan belt was goo. I did not mess with the mechanism but I know I unplugged it. I did pretty much a full teardown of major components. I know I plugged it back in but could have confused it's location. Any advice is appreciated. I do have the SM and will use it if need be. I have read all 29 pages of this forum looking for my answer. I didn't find it. So, I thought this topic might be a nice addition.

 

[rickknight]

I usually replace the counter belt when I replace the capstan belt. If the capstan belt is goo, the counter belt is probably worn out too. Also, make sure the counter is clean. I usually hit the worm gear and it's drive gear with just a little bit of Deoxit and work them manually. With some machines, like my A-6300, it's easier to remove the counter for cleaning.

Rick

 

[dhnash]

I usually replace the counter belt when I replace the capstan belt. If the capstan belt is goo, the counter belt is probably worn out too. Also, make sure the counter is clean. I usually hit the worm gear and it's drive gear with just a little bit of Deoxit and work them manually. With some machines, like my A-6300, it's easier to remove the counter for cleaning.

I believe the X-1000R is equipped with an electronic counter that uses a tape roller, shutter and photointerrupter as a means of detecting tape movement. It does not have a tape counter belt or a tape counter with a worm gear and drive gear that need to be lubricated.