Heathkit W4-AM modifications

With these modifications -- as with all designs to begin with -- it is all about compromises, and principally, achieving the best mix of them.

The basic topology of the W4 circuit is wonderful, and in its original form, is capable of providing about 18 watts of superb performance. Its only drawback is the poor stability produced by the original design. The modifications offered for that design correct those issues.

For the modification using EL34s, the decision to use that tube should be kept in context, as the goal was not driven by the sound of that tube, but by the sound that a different topology would produce.

The original W4 employs a class AB1 UL 5881 output stage, where as the goals that ended up becoming the EL34 modification were to convert the unit to a class A triode output stage, in keeping with the original Williamson concept.

The original version of Williamson's design employed KT66 output tubes, which produce 10 watts RMS power output in his design. However, at the time of America's introduction to the Williamson, the KT66 was not available. The closest tube by characteristics that could handle the voltage was the 807, so all of the earliest American versions of the amplifier used that tube.

When the 5881 come along, the ability to have the same characteristics as the 807 bottled up in a convenient octal base format with no top cap, and voltage ratings that were acceptable for the Williamson design, meant that all such copies of the amplifier quickly converted over to the 5881. However, compared to the KT66, both of these tubes resulted in a power loss, as they could only realistically provide 6-7 watts RMS of power output in Williamson's design. By the time the KT66 did become available in America, UL had already made its big splash, and the triode output stage was quickly abandoned, whether the KT66 was available, or not.

But returning to Williamson's design, the only practical tube he had available for his design at the time was the KT66. Therefore, even though it is a wonderful tube in its own right, it became his tube of choice principally by default. The design was published, and the rest is history.

One of the drawbacks of his design -- as history shows -- is that it requires a notably greater input signal to achieve full power output. This is typically over 2 volts, compared to the 1+ volt figure that was quickly becoming the norm of the day with faithful conversions of his design to UL operation, and other designs as well. In any event, the 2+ volt driving requirement coupled with only 6-7 watts of usable power here in America, meant that the stage was set (no pun intended) for UL to quickly take off, and take off it did.

In my efforts then to produce a really good version of Williamson's efforts -- using his topology and design goals -- then the EL34 -- unavailable at the time of Williamson's design -- makes for an ideal tube. Consider that:

1. It can easily handle the voltages of the Williamson design.

2. All else being equal, it can produce more power output than the KT66 can in the Williamson design and still run well within rated dissipation levels.

3. Due to its higher Gm rating, it can be used in the design and produce a very normal 1.0 vac drive requirement, while still employing the same amount of NFB specified by Williamson.

Therefore, use of the EL34 became an obvious choice, as it overcame the original American problem of low power output, and even improved on Williamson's original design specification for sensitivity.

The only other matter requiring attention was the famous high and low frequency instability problems associated with the design, which I have also addressed with the EL34 modification.

So the effort of converting the W4 to use EL34s was not so much an effort to convert the W4 simply to use another tube, but because of the excellent and perfectly suited transformer set offered, convert the unit to represent the finest example of the heritage it grew out of, with appropriate fixes for its blemishes attended to along the way. Using the EL34 then was just one of the considerations made to achieve that goal.

I hope that helps!

Dave


I may be missing something, but is the schematic above really showing a triode output stage? The screens are still connected to the UL taps. Or is there another pending revision?

I have been wrenching on W4's for some time and have 4 in the (heavily populated) queue to re-build. To date I have been using the stock Heathkit circuit, several converted to triode by a 100ohm resistor connecting plate & screen, and now am considering the schematic above as well as the "Bricktop Mod®"
 
The mods in blue are a definite improvement. The 390R in the tail of the diff amp was a Williamson biasing error and I think was written about way back in the 70s. I use a CCS in that spot so I don't have a resistor value but it's worth looking at the bias point of that pair.

With proper design this circuit can give clean 30W (on 6L6GC finals) with 0.5V input sensitivity and no instability.
 
So, i have completed these mods on my W4's... and i'm very pleased with the results. They sound spectacular. I did the schematic mods in conjunction with an overall amp refresh... solen coupling caps, big sprague atom on the first filter cap, and the JJ cap-can for the other stages... swapping out the strayed carbon comp resistors, etc. The amps are dead quiet with an input source plugged in, or not.

I plan on building a walnut box to set each of them in, to match the rest of my gear.

In additional to the mods on the schematic, i swapped out the original RCA jack with a nice boutique one, and swapped out the power receptacle with an on/off slider power switch. ( it's the one from Antique Electronic Supply for Fender amps' Bright switch ) It's a drop-in replacement, using the same screw holes and everything, so no additional drilling.

I wired it in such a way that you could still plug in the original WPA1 preamp and run it without issue...you'd just have to flip the on switch on the amp as well. This is perfect, since without the preamp, you effectively have no power switch for these things...so it was a needed mod that i'm very pleased with.

It was only after i took this picture that i realized that i mounted the speaker terminal strip on the outside ( properly ) on one amp, and on the INSIDE of the other. Damnit. Now i'm going to have to fix that for symmetry.

Speaking of which, has anyone come up with any cool speaker terminal / binding post mods? I've got some really nice gold binding posts i was considering using...building a similar piece of plastic card with them...possibly omit hooking up the 16 ohm tap to space them out a bit.
 

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I use the pomona banana receptacles and am very pleased with them.
6/32 thread and you can still put spade lugs underneath if necessary. You do need one or two 6/32 washers though. The shaft isn't threaded all the way.
Mouser also has 'em.
http://www.tequipment.net/Pomona5699.asp

For the terminal strips themselves, if I need to replace them I contact Jim McShane.

I'd be open to the solutions of others though.
 
i'm debating hacking off those stupid metal flaps on either side of the chassis to have them drop into a box more readily. Does anyone have an opinion? I'm looking to do something like this.
 

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Those wooden boxes look frickin' sweet. If you look closely it appears that there is a slot for the amps to slide into. Something else to think about after I get mine recapped. :scratch2:
 
yeah...i think that's why he used such a thick piece of walnut - to accommodate the gouge in it for that metal tab.
 
Here's the final version of the Heathkit W4-AM schematic. Dave remembered a couple more mods he did to the stock configuration, including adjustment of the coupling caps and a few other resistor changes ...
Thank you for posting the schematic. :thmbsp:
 
Here's the final version of the Heathkit W4-AM schematic. Dave remembered a couple more mods he did to the stock configuration, including adjustment of the coupling caps and a few other resistor changes / additions.

I've included everything on the original schematic, with any changes made to adjust stability at both high and low frequencies done in RED, and some basic additional changes to extend tube life and reduce distortion further in BLUE.

I also have all the instructions from Dave on how to convert your W4's to EL34 triode mode / class A operation, and will be doing these up in an alternate schematic this weekend.

So...final version of the 5881 / super-stock configuration is attached.

Thank you for the hard work!

Question, what are you all doing to eliminate the socket to the WAP2? Is it as simple as a switch at F6 & F7 or jumper? What if anything else needs to be done to the 250v, 275v, & B- ? Filaments are straight forward just disconnect and don't use. I have seen one with an octal plug in its place.

Thank you in advance!
 
I left the octal socket alone and just jumpered 6 and 7 for now. I bough a few switches so when I get some time after the move I will install those.
 
Yeah, man. Guitarists love the midrange of the 6L6 for a reason.
I sure won't kick my 6L6 tube amps out of the bed for eating crackers.
 
I left the octal socket alone and just jumpered 6 and 7 for now. I bough a few switches so when I get some time after the move I will install those.

Thanks! I ordered some octal plugs for now. Will solder jumper wire at 6&7. Got all the other parts coming to do the circuit mods :)
 
Help finding parts for the W4-AM

Hello everyone, I recently picked up a W4-AM that I brought up on a variac and it will play sound but distortion quickly sets in after it warms up. I want to restore it but this will be my first restoration project. I'm having a hard time finding the components I 'think' I need. For instance a .25 uFd 400v capacitor....I'm probably reading it wrong but I don't see these for sale anywhere online at places like partsexpress and a few others. I wish there were an upgrade 'kit' or even just a shopping list somewhere I could go to make this simpler for me to understand. If anyone could provide me a little assistance here with the understanding that this is my first project of this type, I'd really appreciate it. I'm just trying to get my feet wet with tubes before diving into something more expensive. I'll also have to find myself a mate for it so I can listen in stereo.
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