Help to rebuild Canton CT-90 Crossover (I mean, almost the entire boxes)

I managed to find enough of the black fibre and cork washers that Canton uses to secure the crossovers, as well as M4 brass nuts. Roldofo you will need to glue in the missing mounting block in your cabinet and get some brass M4 threaded rod about 60+mm long. If you can't find threaded rod just get some M4 screws 60mm long and cut the heads off. These must be brass, not steel.

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Cheers,
James
 
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Oh. By the way. The reason that I asked about the wire length from the old binding posts? Look what I just happened to find in my box of speaker parts. :)

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I attached 1.5mm² speaker wire 60cm long, so you have enough length to make working a little easier. The ends are pre-tinned for you.

I'll be carefully packing these things for shipment later today or first thing in the morning.

Cheers,
James
 
After seen your pics and to see the biding posts (Beautiful detail from your part) , I came to my cabinets and tried to take off the wood board that hold the crossovers. Seams a very impossible task. Is attached whit a very strong glue and there is not too much space to force the wood block. Will have to think in an alternative solution, may be just put another table over the existed (not a very elegant solution).

(this is a correction: now I understand, I do not need to take off this block, that is why the M4 should be threaded -did not understand the word "threaded" before-). Comments about the the screws taken. Those will be easy to find.
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I also checked the binding post on my cabinets to make an idea of the task to put the new ones on place:
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Seams the above where broken and changed. they added the little red part.


James those crossovers looks awesome. A curious thing about this is that the Mid cable Crossover-Drive is missing on the crossovers... and is the only cable I do not miss in my cabinets :)

Now I can visualize how fun I will have punting everything together.

Cheers.
Rodolfo.
 

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Yes. You need to make a second wood block to replace the one that is missing.

I can see in the photo the ends of the brass rods where someone has cut them off. You need to carefully remove the remains of that threaded rod and then you can screw the replacements into the holes. Or you can just drill new holes to the side of the old ones and install the crossover a little the side of where it was before. It won't matter. Drill a 3mm hole for the 4mm threaded rod. For wood that will be fine.

Earlier in the thread I made a link to my Karat 200 thread (post #2). There you can see how I replaced the binding posts, the plastic mounting pad is the same, or very nearly the same.

Cheers,
James
 
Yes. You need to make a second wood block to replace the one that is missing.

I can see in the photo the ends of the brass rods where someone has cut them off. You need to carefully remove the remains of that threaded rod and then you can screw the replacements into the holes. Or you can just drill new holes to the side of the old ones and install the crossover a little the side of where it was before. It won't matter. Drill a 3mm hole for the 4mm threaded rod. For wood that will be fine.

Earlier in the thread I made a link to my Karat 200 thread (post #2). There you can see how I replaced the binding posts, the plastic mounting pad is the same, or very nearly the same.

Cheers,
James
Everything undestood James, and yes, I so your karat thread, will check again. :)

cheers,
Rodolfo.
 
Oh. Something that I keep forgetting to mention. I saw in the photos that 1 of the dust caps on a midrange is pushed in. If you take the cardboard tube from a roll of paper towels you can use it to place over the dust cover and just suck it back out. Sounds yucky but it usually works.

Cheers,
James
 
Oh. Something that I keep forgetting to mention. I saw in the photos that 1 of the dust caps on a midrange is pushed in. If you take the cardboard tube from a roll of paper towels you can use it to place over the dust cover and just suck it back out. Sounds yucky but it usually works.

Cheers,
James
Yes James, you already share this trick with me, but it seams the dust cap were pushed in and out so many times that the paper is really marked. Now its in the normal position but still looks very wrinkled. Think I can change the dust cap, but I am afraid to force unnecessary the paper cone. I know, by our perfectionism, this little detail is annoying, but may be is an unnecessary risk to try to change it.

Cheers,
Rodolfo.
 
Wile my new parts arrive (new crossovers tweeters binding posts and chocolates) I am setting everything to start putting all together.

Some minor reapair to the cabinet screw holes where needed. James give to me a simple solution to this, to turn the woofers and make new holes on the cabinet, but my Carpenter friend told me a little and still siempre trick. Using some wood sticks, wood glue on the lose holes will fix the problem. Later just have to make the holes in the same place for the screws and everything will be tight and secure again:

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Losed holes solved, I will wait until I have everything to make the new holes and attach the woofers.

I also remove the old binding post as our dear James also sent to me new ones. Will wait until arrive to now exactly how to procede as one of my cabinets where reapared (not in the best way) just where the biding post fits.
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Almost forget it, I also find some M4 bolts. Originally they are not screwed to the block wood on the cabinet. It seams the M4 on my cabinets have heads so is imposible to put off the parts that are still on my cabinet without taking away the wood block witch is really well glued.

The M4s I found have pan head but I think I have to find some with round head or nut head. Them to glue new wood blocks with the bolts installed.
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If everything goes ok, I will have the parts in my hands first days of the next week, If I am extremely lucky, next Saturday :) Cant wait!! :music::music:
I will review (again) the thread where you James changed the biding posts, just to have a fresh idea :)

Best,
A very happy guy here,
Rodolfo :)
 
Hi Roldolfo! Nice work with the old screw holes and getting the binding posts out. :thumbsup: Looking very good.


Concerning the crossover mounting screws. They need to be brass. They will mount the crossovers through the middle of the woofer and mid coils and having a steel screw there will have a bad effect on the coil, that's why they need to be brass, non-magnetic.

Cheers,
James
 
Ok James now I understand, seams I did not understand in the proper way the word "brass" before. now is clear. Thanks.

Wile I wait really anxious for the possible delivery today of the stuff, I went to buy a set of new screws and the bolts for mounting the crossover. Did't fin M4 but find 3/16 bronze bolts (5mm), but comparing the pieces that remain on the cabinets, seams this 3/16 might fit too (I hope). Did not find hex head but I will add an extra nut at the base of the wood block to prevent the bolt turn when tight the nuts at the top of the coils. To make the base nut at the level of the wood block will dig a little on the wood.

Wile waiting I will be preparing the wood blocks. Did some search to find the proper way to attach the wood blocks to the cabinets, doubting about the hot glue. I so a couple of videos where hot glue where tested. It works really well, did a couple of test by my self and now I feel the hot glue will do the task.

Comparing the original bolts with the 3/16 bolts I find:
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Trying to have everything ready when the things arrive, if not today, Monday. :rockon:

Cheers!
Rodolfo.
 
I was able to remove the original bolts from the wood block attached to my cabinet. Staring to worry about the bolt I buy do no pass trough the coil holes.

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Cheers,
Rodolfo.
 
M5 will be to large. The screws/studs go directly through the woofer and mid coils and can not be made larger. I have another Karat 40 crossover here and will measure the hole size tomorrow and post the measurements.

Cheers,
James
 
Thank you James, it seams M4 in this material will be hard to find here...

Cheers.
Rodolfo.

PD: No delivery today, untill Monday then. :confused:
 
Thank you James, it seams M4 in this material will be hard to find here...

Cheers.
Rodolfo.

PD: No delivery today, untill Monday then. :confused:

Now I feel bad that I didn't think of this and find some screws to send you with the crossovers. Let me look tomorrow what inch size will work. Right now I'm going to bed. :)

James
 
Ok, Finally all the things where delivered yesterday! This is becoming big adventure full on little happy moments. :)
Everything arrives in perfect condition and James seams to be and expert packing (no less our valuable things -not in price but affections- deserve-) you really did the honor to our things James. Even the most important parts for the quality of the sound and the well of our project arrives in perfect condition.... The chocolates!!! :bowdown:
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I am really really happy starting to fit everything together, have not hurries because, I am enjoying in full every little thing I am doing. Have no words to thank you James.
Is hard to Believe a couple of months ago I was terribly sad because of the scam I was targeted, not knowing the great things I was about to find because of that. As my mother always said "Every cloud has a silver lining" this is the prove.

Today I wake up early, in big part anxious to go out to find the bolts I need to attach the crossover to the cabinet (finally the ones I bough before were to big 4.7mm. The holes on the coils are precise for 4mm bolts as James told me, this the 4.7mm were the only ones I can found). So, went to walk asking every ironmongery for this precise bolts I need 4mm X 60mm in brass. Were imposible to find and everybody tell me how hard could be to find such dimensions. Until someone just advice me to go to a place where they can build the bolts for me. Find a place with a very kind person and say yes, he will try make them for me. It seams hard to do it because is to long and to thin, but any way he says I can go tomorrow 11am and see what he achieve. Lets hope he make it.

I come back home and start to cut the wood blocks I need to attach the crossover and the new binding posts -which are amazing!- :)
One of the cool things I learned the days before were the posible good uses of hot glue. Watched some videos where the strength of this glue is tested. I was wondering if this could be a good method to attach the woodblock that will be holding the crossover to the cabinet. The conclusion: Yes! Hot glue It is a good method to attach to the cabinet the woodblock that will hold the crossover.

In the thread where James changed the binding posts for his Canton Karat 200 (post #5), I so he did precise measures to make the holes to the woodblocks to hold the new binding posts inside the cabinets... well I did not measures anything, just apply hot glue and stick the new wood block behind the original binding post holes. After that I make the holes from the outside of the cabinet and install the binding post, no secured yet because I want to laid down the cabinets to work on the connection of the drives.

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I will back to work, more soon :)
Cheers,
Rodolfo.
 
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Looking good! I'm glad that everything arrived safely.

There is another way to deal with mounting the crossovers. I have another Karat 40 crossover here and just looked at it.

It is 35mm thick at the woofer coil and 28mm thick at the mid coil. The fiber and cork washers are each 3mm thick, so 41 and 34mm.
So just buy some 4mm brass wood screws 45mm and 50mm long. Mark your wood mounting blocks and drill 2x 3mm holes and just use the wood screws to hold the crossovers in place. Brass wood screws might be easier to find than the long M4 screws and will hold the crossovers in place just fine.

Canton used those nice M4 studs and nuts because it makes the crossovers easier to remove but wood screws will work also, that is exactly what Grundig used and I haven't had any problems with them.

Cheers,
James
 
Copied that James.

Will wait til tomorrow and see if we're possible to made the bolts. If not, will pass to this option you mention. I did thought about the same before, but my perfectionism and the fact that the original method is great I keep insisted.

More pics soon,
Cheers!

Rodolfo.
 
Tweeter (love how it looks this tweeter) and Mid (and fiber glass padding on the mid chamber) installed on one cabinet. Waiting for the crossover to be installed until tomorrow:

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As I refilled the screw holes for the woofers (post #65), I put the woofer backwards to mark the holes and make them again with a thin 3mm drill:

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Now to work on the other cabinet...
Cheers,
Rodolfo.
 
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