HH Scott 382 Stereomaster Speaker Ohms?

Discussion in 'Solid State' started by Goldenvoice, Sep 3, 2006.

  1. Goldenvoice

    Goldenvoice Active Member

    I aquired a clean Scott 382 stereomaster (SS) at a yard sale yesterday for $2.

    A quick test showed the switches and controls needing a cleaning, which I did.

    I re-tested it, using only a single small box speaker (8 ohms, I believe - my "test" speaker since blowing a pair on a vintage Aiwa). She heats up the back plate/heat sink fairly quickly - Seems to be around the area of one set of output trans (right channel?) - not around the other - made no difference which side I hooked the speaker to...

    Might the speaker ohmage be off, or might it be because I only have a speaker connected to one side? (twix "com" and "main")

    Or should I assume it needs a re-caping?

    I'm not assuming, being it's solid state, that it's even worth fixing.


    Thanks, G :scratch2:
  2. tcdriver

    tcdriver AK Subscriber Subscriber

    The speaker impedance is not the issue. The connection between the "main" and "com" terminals is correct. You have a bad channel. The most common fault is a bad driver transistor, although you may have a bad output as well.

    I love the Scott 382 (AM/FM version) and 342 (FM only version) receivers. These were among the very first all solid state Scott units and they have the great Scott sound in spades. I have recapped my unit (342) and use it as my daily driver in my "office" set-up where it has been is daily use for several year now. :music:

    My advice, repair and recap the unit and then pinch yourself over your good fortune in picking up a fine unit for a great price. :thmbsp:
  3. Goldenvoice

    Goldenvoice Active Member

    Thanks for the quick reply!

    I have to admit, I have yet to re-cap a unit myself - I've spent years doing my own mechanicals - i.e. - cleaning controls - replacing belts, etc.

    What does an amature like myself (read 41, +22 years Prof Musician) need to get started in such an endevor? I've been soldering since my mom bought me my first set-up when I was in the 3rd grade - it's the electronic circut thing that's new...

    Anyway - Is there a basic on-line site/class for acquointing ones self with transistor/cap testing, required equiptment, etc????

    Also, any idea of the wattage output?

    Thanks again, G :smoke:
  4. tcdriver

    tcdriver AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Scott 382

    Power output is about 20 W/Channel. There is a review of the Scott 382 in the January 1967 issue of High Fidelity magazine.
  5. mhardy6647

    mhardy6647 AK Subscriber Subscriber

  6. Brudha

    Brudha Shania before Mark Twain Subscriber


    Couple snaps of my 382-B:

    Attached Files:

  7. tcdriver

    tcdriver AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Knowing how to solder is a good first step. Repairing the Scott 382 is made easier by the fact that all the audio signal path transistors are in sockets. That means that removing and testing the transistors is relatively easy. First, get a service manual. Second, obtain a multimeter. This will allow you to check many of the components (resistors, transistors and to a certain extent capacitors). I think that a search on this forum will turn up information on how to test the transistors.

    I would start a new thread with this question. I do not have a ready answer, however, there are others on this forum that will.
  8. Fred Longworth

    Fred Longworth audio fanatic

    As I recall, the power amp board has a number of coupling and bypass electrolytics that are black or very dark gray in color. THESE FAIL and should be replaced.

    If the channel is not blowing fuses but is getting very warm, yes, you likely have a leaky driver driver transistor (drives the base of an output transistor.) You should also check the trimmer potentiometer that sets the idling current.

    Fred Longworth

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