superdog
AK Member
The only step up for me is a Krell, Mark Levinson or Bryston type amp but it is beyond my reach from a monetary standpoint at this point but who knows in the future.
High-End AVRs for Stereo?
- Thread starter ScottFan355
- Start date
Look for the Aragon amps as well , if you like Krell then there right in the same ballpark sound Signature wise and built like tanks .
I forgot to add , there also within reach price wise as well .
Audiofreak71
If going in, you recognize the signal path devices, especially op-amps in virtually every AVR is low sonic quality, if you have modest SMT skill sets and an understanding of the signal chain, then using the right op-amp can get you some really incredible results. My Avantage for example, since the signal path was upgraded with ELNA SILMIC II's and OPA-1612's to replace the NE5532's, it's simply amazing at the difference in SQ and performance from the ESS DAC. The first thing to realize, is discreet components used in the late 70's and early 80's was what set those apart from a SQ perspective.
By any chance, did you upgrade one channel and leave the other stock for A/B testing? If so, what were the differences between the two channels (presumably put in mono or fed same signal)? If not, never mind.
tonyk
Super Member
Don't forget about Arcam AVR's, they can be found reasonably priced and have excellent sonics.
I've done comparative tests, yes, against unmodified and modified. Pioneer, Denon, Yamaha... My Avantage wasn't my first rodeo, I've been doing this for decades now. The most important part is selecting to the correct replacement. Denon for example, is very fond of the cheap JRC's like the NJM2068. A great replacement is the OPA-1602. For those like Yamaha, Pioneer and even Arcam mentioned above who use the NE5532's, the OPA-1612 is the best choice. It doesn't take but about a minute or so of listening and the general response by those who listen, will point and say "I want that one!" Don't believe me? Try it for yourself and you'll see I've been there and done that.
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superdog
AK Member
Yeah I forgot to add Aragon to that list.They may be the most affordable.
Yup, NJM2068 from the barebones receivers up through the mid-fi gear all the way to the monster TOTL pre-pro. NJM2068 through and through.
So do tell about swapping out 2068s for the OPA-1602 units. Any tricks of the trade to pass along? And thanks again for the advice and specifics.
It's basically a drop-in replacement. Same current requirements, so no redesign of supply required. The NJM2068 is in the arena of a good tabletop radio performance. I wouldn't saddle it with any DAC, single ended or differential. One of the greatest performance benefits is one thing JRC won't show you in their specs, and that is phase. The OPA-1602 is phase stable across the entire audio spectrum. The OPA-1602 brings with it much better THD+N, 130dB of channel separation, better noise rejection, better dynamic range, slew rates that will get you to the magic 20V/µs range which can accurately handle complex audio passages. It's just a solid choice. However, they cost a lot more than the JRC, and profit trumps SQ for almost all the manufacturers.
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Markoneswift
Quartz locked n ready to rock
Well I am now officially a convert. An AVR is my primary amp !
I picked up my Cambridge Audio Azur 540r for very little (about $15 US) because the volume control was touchy. I cleaned it out with Deoxit and, together with my JBL L110's, the thing sounds amazing
I picked up my Cambridge Audio Azur 540r for very little (about $15 US) because the volume control was touchy. I cleaned it out with Deoxit and, together with my JBL L110's, the thing sounds amazing
You will simply love the sound stage created by the Burr-Brown OPA-1602. (and just an FYI from your other post, you can't separate L&R since design sends both through a single device, which is why the separate power supply design and 130dB of channel separation comes into play on the OPA-1602)
Gotcha. I'll look into the receiver schematics and figure out a way using different input / opamp / speaker combos to get a simultaneous L-NJM2068 / R-OPA1602 compare going. If that isn't possible, surely I can at least get a quickly switchable A/B thing going.
Just looked at a scrap board from a 3808. Those little buggers are way down in there, wedged between two rows of caps. Gonna be an adventure...
Pull the caps. Replace the device, reinstall the caps.
StimpyWan
Addicted Member
Interesting advise. I'll have to consider op-amp swaps for my RX-A3030, since it's no longer under warranty.
Any tips going in? Are all the op-amps socketed? So, just a pull and replace operation? One op-amp per channel, just for the stereo channels, or are we talking surround channels as well? And are the op-amps easy to access, or does the entire AVR need to be disassembled?
Thanks.
Oh, where did you pick up your BB OPA-1612's?
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mhardy6647
Lunatic Member
StimpyWan
Addicted Member
Got'cha. Thanks. I'll do it under my microscope at work then. After I work up the nerve. Plus, I suppose I need to find a schematic as well.
mhardy6647
Lunatic Member
Go easy on the coffee before starting in.
I am personally too chicken to tackle SMTs - but I know an increasing number of folks who do it all the time.
I am personally too chicken to tackle SMTs - but I know an increasing number of folks who do it all the time.
StimpyWan
Addicted Member
SMT soldering isn't hard. Easy in fact, with the correct technique. Unsoldering can be tricky, but we have a desoldering station at work too.
SMT doesn't utilize sockets, and all of them are glued to the board. If you are going to only do R&L Front, then you only need one op-amp. (IC731) I chose to replace all of them. All of the ones for signal between the DAC and the amp boards are on the single board (Function) on the outside of the stack on the right hand side. Second item to strongly consider, is the NE5532 next to the ESS DAC on the Video board. This is the 3.3v voltage regulation circuit, but has a direct impact on the ESS DAC's performance. If you do not have the proper tools for SMT rework, then it can be a little daunting, as you can damage the board's traces fairly easily. One can use a fresh sharp razor blade and cut the legs off at the top of the op-amp, severing the body from the leads on both sides, then carefully popping the op-amp off the board, then using a soldapult to desolder and suck the legs off the pads, leaving it ready to mount a new one. This is not for the faint of heart or the first timer. Repair shops can also do this for you. Mouser sells the TI OPA-1612.Interesting advise. I'll have to consider op-amp swaps for my RX-A3030, since it's no longer under warranty.
Any tips going in? Are all the op-amps socketed? So, just a pull and replace operation? One op-amp per channel, just for the stereo channels, or are we talking surround channels as well? And are the op-amps easy to access, or does the entire AVR need to be disassembled?
Thanks.
Oh, where did you pick up your BB OPA-1612's?
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