How to make a car burn more oil?

[Hyfi]

I know this is an odd request, but here is why I ask.

I have an 07 Rav4 with the engine identified to burn excessive oil. There is an extended warranty for this but the engine has to burn more than 1 QT in under 1200 miles. They give you 2 attempts to fail.

I did the first test late last winter and did not hit the mark by an ounce or two. I worked with the Service Manager and did a Mock Test late in the summer. Oddly they claimed it burned up barely a few ounces.

I have one more attempt and plan to do it in January when it's colder and I have to warm up the vehicle.

I am totally baffled as to how the first test showed almost a quart while the second test showed I burned barely anything. (they could have been lying for all I know)

I just took a trip to Virginia Beach and put 800 miles on and burned about a quart.

So, with all that, please tell me how to drive or what to do that will burn more oil than normal driving back and forth to work so I can get a rebuilt engine before I sell this car.

Thanks for any suggestions!

Brian

 

[whoaru99]

You're saying you have to increase oil consumption by more than 50%?

 

[Hyfi]

You're saying you have to increase oil consumption by more than 50%?

I just have to have it burn a quart in under 1200 miles and they will rebuild the engine. I am pretty sure in the cold I will be close to the mark, but just want to be sure I can put it over the mark with my final test. I want to force it to burn oil anyway I can including idling for warmup for 10 minutes before I drive in the cold.

 

[finnbow]

Try 0W-20 weight oil.

 

[whoaru99]

Maybe I misunderstood...

Didn't you say you just did a trip where it used 1qt in 800 miles?

Why wouldn't you repeat that for the test? Seems like a shoe in at 800 mi/qt.

 

[bowtie427ss]

Leave it in low gear, drive normally. Don't redline it, that'll almost surely throw a code.

 

[whoaru99]

Try 0W-20 weight oil.

I don't know what the criteria of this test is, but when we do this at work the test requires use of specific oil.

 

[whoaru99]

Leave it in low gear, drive normally. Don't redline it, that'll almost surely throw a code.

Yeah, those darn computer throw a wrench in things. It's interesting to see what they spit out with the right tool.

 

[savatage1973]

Actually, the cold is probably not going to help due to the oil remaining "thicker" at the higher end of its viscosity range. You need higher heat to get the oil to "thin out" to get past the rings and any marginal valve seals. Probably, your best bet to "fail" the test is to run on the highway and get everything good and hot, and then park the vehicle in your driveway and let it idle for an hour or two or longer--keeps the engine good and hot and puts zero miles on the odometer. That should burn off enough oil without racking up the miles--just a thought. Even a good dose of in-town stop and go driving will get an engine good and hot--just don't make multiple short trips (it won't stay hot)--just do a couple of hours cruising the mall and going virtually nowhere (mileage-wise), but still having the vehicle running on the hot side.

 

[bowtie427ss]

I wonder if it's actually losing the oil thru the bottom end, or if it's sucking it down via a bad PCV valve etc...

"Yota powertrains are generally some of the best in the business for longevity.

 

[Hyfi]

Actually, the cold is probably not going to help due to the oil remaining "thicker" at the higher end of its viscosity range. You need higher heat to get the oil to "thin out" to get past the rings and any marginal valve seals. Probably, your best bet to "fail" the test is to run on the highway and get everything good and hot, and then park the vehicle in your driveway and let it idle for an hour or two or longer--keeps the engine good and hot and puts zero miles on the odometer. That should burn off enough oil without racking up the miles--just a thought. Even a good dose of in-town stop and go driving will get an engine good and hot--just don't make multiple short trips (it won't stay hot)--just do a couple of hours cruising the mall and going virtually nowhere (mileage-wise), but still having the vehicle running on the hot side.

This is why I am so baffled. A test in the cold burned almost a quart but same mileage in the summer allegedly burned next to nothing. I rarely trust anything out of the mouths of Dealer people so they may have been lying to me.

This specific engine was only used for a short time before they realized the problems and some are way worse than mine while some don't burn any.

I did think about idling for a few hours at a time, so thanks for the warmup suggestions.

 

[savatage1973]

I wonder if it's actually losing the oil thru the bottom end, or if it's sucking it down via a bad PCV valve etc...

"Yota powertrains are generally some of the best in the business for longevity.

I agree that Toyota powertrains are historically "bulletproof", but they have had their "quality" issues in the past decade or so--think the frames rotting out from underneath their trucks and SUVs, and the CVT transmission debacles.

If there are no leaks, it has got to be rings or valve seals allowing oil to pass through and be burned--a PCV valve could do it too, but you would think (there I go "thinking" again) that the dealer would have checked that and offered to replace it for some outrageous amount of money the first go-round.

 

[whoaru99]

Lugging/loading the engine will cause more oil consumption, running too high of gear (if possible), towing, stop/go driving with heavy acceleration, etc. But, it's more stressful so if it still doesn't fail the test you just subject it to more stress for nothing.

Again, if you did an 800 mile road trip and used 1 quart why would you not start the test then do the road trip?

 

[Oerets]

I'd sell the car, move on and let the dealer know just what your opinions are of the quality and service you have received so far. Then call the dealers regional contact and explain to them also. Keep posting on the internet updates so there are tracks left behind when a search is made by others.







Barney

 

[4-2-7]

Burning oil is what blows by the piston rings as they ware. It sounds like you'll be playing Russian Roulette if you try to increase this ware and it doesn't fail.

They make a product that you can use to flush the engine that you add to the oil just before you change it. It's a solvent that breaks down the oil and and gunk in the crank case cleaning it. Your not supposed to drive it around that way because it turns the oil very thin killing any protection qualities it has. Harden and sticky oil does help seal gaps at the piston ring grooves, cylinder walls, bearings, lifter bores and valve train. These are your friction points and without protection they all will ware out.

After a flushing then change the oil to a cheap low viscosity that will pass though gaps and bad seals better, maybe add a quart of trans fluid that will thin it down further.

If you can block a crank case evacuation port a little it will increase crank case pressure like a compressors forcing oil out the engine at the rings. Also a higher volume oil pump will do the same thing.

 

[whoaru99]

I'd sell the car, move on and let the dealer know just what your opinions are of the quality and service you have received so far. Then call the dealers regional contact and explain to them also. Keep posting on the internet updates so there are tracks left behind when a search is made by others.







Barney

I agree about the breadcrumb trail.

But, it could well be the dealers field rep is the one that has suggested the test and has to sign off on the results to approve a replacement engine.

 

[Hyfi]

I'd sell the car, move on and let the dealer know just what your opinions are of the quality and service you have received so far. Then call the dealers regional contact and explain to them also. Keep posting on the internet updates so there are tracks left behind when a search is made by others.







Barney

No, don't misunderstand. They have treated me very well. This is not a Recall or an Extended Warranty, if I implied that. I forget what they call it but it is an Extended Care Program. Some Ravs burn 2 quarts in 100 miles and fail easily. Mine seems to be borderline so they are not really obligated to do anything other than the 2 free tests.

They change the oil and take a reading on the stick. Then they tape the Oil Fill Cap in place. After the mileage they record the level of the stick and it just has to be over the 1 quart mark.

I plan to sell this car anyway in the next 2 years but it would sell much easier with a freshly rebuild engine

 

[whoaru99]

...

After a flushing then change the oil to a cheap low viscosity that will pass though gaps and bad seals better, maybe add a quart of trans fluid that will thin it down further.

...

Typically the customer does not get that much control for a formal oil consumption test, or it would be assured every time it would "fail".

 

[4-2-7]

Let me add this IMO looking at ware points

Cylinder walls and piston rings,
Crank journals and bearings,
lifter bores and lifters
valve train
Cam and cam bearings

The bearings will ware the fastest and they are lead coated with a metal journal rubbing them, called wiping a bearing.

Metal to metal ware would not be as fast to fail.

 

[Hyfi]

As far as I have been told, it is the Pistons and Rings that will be replaced.