How to test a tweeter...for dummies?

Discussion in 'Speakers' started by Klownschool, Mar 4, 2007.

  1. Klownschool

    Klownschool Mouth open = can't hear Subscriber

    I've got a two part question for you. I am admittedly a newbie so be gentle ;).

    1. I would like to know the best way to test a tweeter I suspect may not be working. This particular speaker is a 3A adagio 06600. The one that works sounds amazing and I want to get the other up to speed without damaging anything in the process. I was hoping that I wouldn't have to swap them out to see if that is the case. It has wipers for tone so I was hoping there may be a chance that is corosion is a possiblity.

    2. If it is shot, how do I tell at what ohm the speaker runs at so that I can get a suitable replacement

    Any help would be appreciated,
  2. jpdylon

    jpdylon non-active member...

    two ways if you don't want to swap:

    1. use a multimeter and test the resistance of the tweeter. it should read between 4 and 8 ohms. if no reading or 0 ohms, its bad

    2. get a 1.5 volt battery (no higher), and some wire. connect the wire to the tweeter. connect the wires to the battery momentarily and release. You should hear a click from the tweeter. No noise = dead tweeter.

    A replacement would have to be the same physical size, and have similar frequency response, impedance rating, power rating, and efficiency rating
  3. Klownschool

    Klownschool Mouth open = can't hear Subscriber

    Great, thanks Jordan.

    Hmmm, I hope it's not shot. Sounds like finding a replacement might be tough. No markings, spec's available online. They must not have made too many of these.

  4. mhardy6647

    mhardy6647 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Unless it were a $500 TAD or ribbon driver or suchlike... I personally have no qualms about applying a very low level, full-range signal to most tweeters and listening for sound. If that is beyond your comfort level, use a 2 or 4 uF NP electrolytic to block LF.
  5. stickman

    stickman Super Member

    I agree with MHardy that you can safely test most tweeters by feeding them a very LOW LEVEL full range signal, and recommend turning the treble tone control all the way up and bass tone control all the way down (turn off any Loudness compensation) to minimize low frequency input. Some tweeters may seem to test okay but still have abnormally low level output due to physical condition issues in the spider or voice coil. Comparing the tweeter with a similar unit that is known to be working correctly is always the best way if possible.

    PS - I used to work at a speaker factory in the mid to late 70's and would often conduct tweeter torture sessions during lunch time just for fun. Oem suppliers were constantly sending us samples of new tweeter models that would get tested and then set on a shelf to collect dust. I would conduct my experiments at the speaker assembly line test station which was a signal generator and low power Marantz receiver. I would feed the tweeters both sine and square waves to hear how they'd respond and then go down in frequency to see where they'd cut off. Most would just burn out after a few seconds at lower frequencies. The speaker company was using primarily Peerless cone tweeters at the time and my favorite subjects were Peerless tweeters that were rejected when holes were accidenatlly punched through the cones. Peerless used a white polyester style damping material behind the cone which would start to burn as the voice coils overheated, causing smoke to come out of the hole. It was the only situation where I've ever enjoyed seeing tweeters go up in smoke.....
  6. onplane

    onplane What! No Wake???


    There is better than a 50 50 chance that the problem is in the controls. Why don't you try cleaning it first and then see if you can get some sound output.

    If you are forced to replace, unfortunately, you'll probably have to buy a pair.


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